General Rear Bump Stops

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General Rear Bump Stops

Thank you koalar & Jock for your kind & helpful replies - much appreciated:)

I've witnessed welding plenty enough and always thought I fancy giving it a go, but yes I'd consider myself a complete beginner.

Which I guess is why MMA was advised to me as easiest to pick up, but I'd never stopped to consider it would be unsuited to thin metal. So thank you for putting me on the right path with MIG.

Yes, it would be for mostly use on cars, plus some other projects (but no load-bearing structures). Funnily enough, also a trailer, but a small lightweight one for bicycles (I convert e-bikes in my spare time).

I'm very cautious with any power tools or high voltages or heat - I've seen what can go wrong, and I've only got one hand already so I need to be careful:)

So I'll make sure to do some proper research, learning and trials before letting myself loose on my unsuspecting Panda.
Full face auto darkening helmets make the whole learning experience much easier and stops you getting sunburned


My thoughts are as @irc suggested, clean up back to sound metal, rustproof and weld a plate with a hole for the bump stop. Unless anyone has some bright ideas?
@irc is exactly what I would do
 
My thoughts are as @irc suggested, clean up back to sound metal, rustproof and weld a plate with a hole for the bump stop. Unless anyone has some bright ideas?
I think that should work well. Always worth remembering when welding the bottom of vehicles that the other side of what you are welding will get very very hot indeed so there's always a considerable risk of setting fire to carpets and upholstery. Less likely in this particular case because you're welding to the end of that trumpet shape. Also there's going to be a considerable amount of sparks involved so watch out for fuel lines etc - which, together with fuel tanks, are often plastic now a days so can melt. with your helmet on you're not going to see flames! I never weld vehicles on my own, I always have a "watcher" and lift carpets out of the way if welding sills or floors. Some anti rust waxes and seam sealers can burn "quite nicely" too. I have no less than 8 fire extinguishers - CO2, Powder and Halon (yes, we don't talk about the Halon these days) in the workshop.
 
After welding, the heat-affected metal will have a layer of "mill-scale" oxide. This has to be cleaned off before the protective coatings are applied. Otherwise, it will eventually flake away, taking any carefully applied sealant with it.
 
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