Technical Rear bump stop repair/salvage

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Technical Rear bump stop repair/salvage

WitleyPanda

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Replacing rear discs and notice bump stop floating in the spring :( Appears ok but the nipple that retains it to chassis has broken off. S4P currently don't have stock. So is there a salvage method for these? Could I just glue it in? or turn up a piece of Acetal/Delrin with the nipple and fix it to the bump stop body/top? Obviously need it in place for MOT.

ideas?
 
Replacing rear discs and notice bump stop floating in the spring :( Appears ok but the nipple that retains it to chassis has broken off. S4P currently don't have stock. So is there a salvage method for these? Could I just glue it in? or turn up a piece of Acetal/Delrin with the nipple and fix it to the bump stop body/top? Obviously need it in place for MOT.

ideas?
Glued in with "Gorilla" glue. As they say "The water activated polyurethane formula expands into materials to form an incredibly strong bond to virtually anything, making Gorilla Glue your solution for almost any project or repair." so it seemed ideal for the PU bump stop. Could not drop the rear arm down enough to get it out between the coils, so guess if replace it, out with the spring compressor?
 
When my bump stops came loose and I couldn't get my hands on new ones I turned them upside down and attached them to the pan with a long screw via the hole in the pan. I could do this without removing the spring. They were like that for two years until I got around to proper replacements and passed two NCT (MOT) inspections like that.
 
Appreciate there other suppliers, but was looking for a repair / salvage options.
Well for sure once they have busted they are doomed. I feel they a non repairable part. Cheapness in assembly etc.. Once assembled they are not meant to be removed again. I did manage to get a few weeks extension by inserting a wooden dowel into the top of the bump stop and glueing it into place, and the dowel to the car . I used hot glue but it was not really much good. Water was the downfall The foam on the Fiat parts seems to degradequickly and once its degraded it just continues to crumble. The force of the cars weight bashing onto the stop means its got to be aligned just right to make it crush / deform rather than bending and breaking. Liberal use of silicon spray makes insertion and removal much easier.
 
Glued in with "Gorilla" glue. As they say "The water activated polyurethane formula expands into materials to form an incredibly strong bond to virtually anything, making Gorilla Glue your solution for almost any project or repair." so it seemed ideal for the PU bump stop. Could not drop the rear arm down enough to get it out between the coils, so guess if replace it, out with the spring compressor?
Gorilla glue is a good idea as it makes a similar sort of foam,
 
Well for sure once they have busted they are doomed. I feel they a non repairable part. Cheapness in assembly etc.. Once assembled they are not meant to be removed again. I did manage to get a few weeks extension by inserting a wooden dowel into the top of the bump stop and glueing it into place, and the dowel to the car . I used hot glue but it was not really much good. Water was the downfall The foam on the Fiat parts seems to degradequickly and once its degraded it just continues to crumble. The force of the cars weight bashing onto the stop means its got to be aligned just right to make it crush / deform rather than bending and breaking. Liberal use of silicon spray makes insertion and removal much easier.
Thanks for the feedback. The environmental and flexing concerns were why I chose the PU foaming glue, to which water not an issue. PU will break down, like the foam in furniture does. Once the outer skin degrades/damaged the core quickly crumbs. Given the inclement weather, on a time line to rebuild rear braking system, did not want to haul out the spring compressor to remove/reinstall, if a easier fix. Worst case will turn up a replacement top, which can do in the dry and refit on the fly. ( or replace on a dry summer evening, if we going to get one ????).
 
Thanks for the feedback. The environmental and flexing concerns were why I chose the PU foaming glue, to which water not an issue. PU will break down, like the foam in furniture does. Once the outer skin degrades/damaged the core quickly crumbs. Given the inclement weather, on a time line to rebuild rear braking system, did not want to haul out the spring compressor to remove/reinstall, if a easier fix. Worst case will turn up a replacement top, which can do in the dry and refit on the fly. ( or replace on a dry summer evening, if we going to get one ????).
Rear springs should come out without a compressor. you may need to pull the suspension down to get the clearnace but thats all. Mine had the rubber spring cushins but they come out with a bit of wiuggling giving more clearance for the spring. Just undo the bottom damper bolt.
 
Rear springs should come out without a compressor. you may need to pull the suspension down to get the clearnace but thats all. Mine had the rubber spring cushins but they come out with a bit of wiuggling giving more clearance for the spring. Just undo the bottom damper bolt.
Bottom damper bolt out, been doing the disc change. Did a quick look at what I could put a jack between to force trailing arm lower, since my upper body force insufficient. ( On the LR90 just raise the chassis and let the axle down to deck and they come out, so got the principle, but gravity not enough here.) Hence the compressor as a rib spreader, else on the friends four post and chain axle to track, then use the jack to raise the chassis? At least on the panda no retainer plate or dislocation cones etc. Will go have another play then have a plan for dry day when have the bits...........,
 
Bottom damper bolt out, been doing the disc change. Did a quick look at what I could put a jack between to force trailing arm lower, since my upper body force insufficient. ( On the LR90 just raise the chassis and let the axle down to deck and they come out, so got the principle, but gravity not enough here.) Hence the compressor as a rib spreader, else on the friends four post and chain axle to track, then use the jack to raise the chassis? At least on the panda no retainer plate or dislocation cones etc. Will go have another play then have a plan for dry day when have the bits...........,
You may need to allow both rear wheels to drop. Ive had the rear springs out of our 2014 car when rust proofing. Putting back was worse...
 
You may need to allow both rear wheels to drop. Ive had the rear springs out of our 2014 car when rust proofing. Putting back was worse...
They are perfectly "free to drop"! Vehicle well off the deck, wheels off. But springs are not going to come out without further downward force on the arm/axle. Dry day tomorrow ?
 
Late to this,
but Glue worked well for me

From memory.. I placed a wooden baton in there and lower the jack until Bumpstop was lightly compressed

Raise.. Remove baton, all good🙂
I used a piece of steel tube ( hydraulic jack sectional handle) and screwed it up the spring. The compression of the bump stop and the cross cut feature on the bottom held it in place till it cured.
 
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