Technical Punto cam belt change...

[Callum T]

Hi everyone, i will be changing my friends cam belt on his punto very soon but need a bit of help.
First of all, i see there are auto and manual tensioners for this car so which one do i need? Its a 2004 punto with a 1.2 8v engine...

Secondly, do i need a special fiat locking tool for the crank and cam? If not, whats the best way to lock them?

Lastly, do i need a special tool for the tensioner??

A guide would be great help! Thanks guys

NB: Is this a safe engine? If the belt snaps will there be enough clearance between the piston and valves or is it like most other engines, a catastrophic result?

 

[fingers99]

8valve is safe engine. (16v isn't!)

No need for a locking tool.

Manual tensioner.

Guide in the guides, either here or in Cinq/Sei section (timing details are the same).

Make sure you line up the pip on the crank pulley with the hole in the alternator pulley or the ignition timing will be so far out it'll never start.

 

[s and b]

8 valve non interferance
no special tools required
hardest job is getting the inner lower bolt out of the engine to mount

 

[Callum T]

Cheers for the response guys! Is there a mark on the crank pulley that lines up with a mark on the crank case to indicate were to leave the crank? Like a safe position?
Also, do i need to remove any engine mounts to get the cam belt off? Mount has to be removed on my car (non fiat) to remove the belt.

 

[Brendan W]

The crank mark is a bit vague tbh. I set the cam mark and then use the marks on the belt to verify the position of the crank as it were. One mark is at a tooth the other at a gap. If you want you can mark the old belt at the crank and cam marks and then compare that to the marks on the new one all assuming the old one wasn't out.
The top engine mount has to come off and one of the screws is a pita as s&b said. You will need to support the motor properly at this stage to prevent it dropping and nothing too sharp or you'll dent the sump.
Dave has good pics in the guides section of the timing marks for these motors.

 

[Callum T]

The crank mark is a bit vague tbh. I set the cam mark and then use the marks on the belt to verify the position of the crank as it were. One mark is at a tooth the other at a gap. If you want you can mark the old belt at the crank and cam marks and then compare that to the marks on the new one all assuming the old one wasn't out.
The top engine mount has to come off and one of the screws is a pita as s&b said. You will need to support the motor properly at this stage to prevent it dropping and nothing too sharp or you'll dent the sump.
Dave has good pics in the guides section of the timing marks for these motors.

Thanks for that mate! Cool i shall use a block of wood on top of the jack to support the sump/engine then. I dont like the sound of these timing marks. I shall try and find/read the guide. Thanks again!

 

[Brendan W]

Jack would be a bit wobbly for my taste tbh - wood on wood on wood. Once she's free the motor can make a bolt for it in any direction. The motor is non interference so it's almost impossible to screw it up.

 

[fingers99]

As an afterthought, wise to change the water pump at the same time if it hasn't been done for 60k miles or so.

 

[Callum T]

Cheers Brendan!

Yeah i was considering doing the water pump as well if the owner wants it doing. Although then that adds more expense, with the coolant change etc...
Are these easy to bleed? I know my car is a right pig to bleed :/ (K series)
Where are the bleed screws located?
Thanks again.

 

[Brendan W]

Difficult to bleed successfully with the coolant level at max in the filler. Best fill to the top of the neck and for good measure I upend a 500 ml drinks bottle of coolant and blast the living doodoos out of the back bleed screw which is on one of the heater hoses. When that one has stopped sputtering I drop the excess in the filler neck through the rad bleeder which depending on the year is top left or right of the rad. Some folks have success doing the bleeders the other way around and don't need the Rambo bottle thing either:chin:
Target is no gurgling in the heater matrix on startup.

 

[Callum T]

Fair enough cheers mate.

Last question, would the fact that the car runs on LPG change the timing at all? Stupid question, just dont want to make a mistake on someone elses car

 

[Brendan W]

Never heard of lpg needing a change of valve timing - but what do I know.

 

[fingers99]

If the cam timing has been changed (doubtful) it'll have an adjustable cam pulley. If not, you can pretty much rule it out.

 

[Callum T]

Cheers for all your help mate! Really appreciate it. I shall try and do the change at the end of the week.

 

[bredsticz]

for crank markings, check inside the bellhousing ang the flywheel has good marks on it