have just purchased a fiat doblo to replace our Scudo. Travelled from Wales to Devon...oil was empty when we got to Devon...refilled and it was still in the next morning...started her up, and she dumped a load into the road, and is drip drip dripping as we go...can't see anything obvious...any ideas??
Technical Oil leak
- Thread starter drewbles
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- fiat doblo leaking oil oil leak
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Technical Oil leak
also..the ECG? valve has been removed? remapped? the emissions thingy isn't there anyway.....Thanks for the recap..
so you obviously managed hundreds of miles in your 'new purchase'..
so 'worn out.. sold a pup.. is unlikely
I had forgotten it was the 1.9.. thought it was 1248cc baby engine
Years ago.. I got caught out with a 1.9
The engine 'breathes' out excess pressures.. for emissions purposes this is then ducted back to the air intake and ingested
My old car had its Intercooler full of oil.. from oily vapour settling in it
You may well find some of your excess oil has followed a similar path
Anything being drawn back to the engine could smother the Sensor in the air intake..
That can really mess.up fuelling
My message.. dont give up yet
Feel free to ask more tomorrow
In the meantime
For some photographic assistance
Search MAF in the Multipla section
EGR exhaust gas recirculator
They tend to bung it up..(block the flow)
But all the other things can get in the way...
As I said earlier.. you happily drove it for 100' s of miles.. so no reason it isnt capable of running well now
Those 1905 motors are pretty tough.. so jack and I are still optomistic
They tend to bung it up..(block the flow)
But all the other things can get in the way...
As I said earlier.. you happily drove it for 100' s of miles.. so no reason it isnt capable of running well now
Those 1905 motors are pretty tough.. so jack and I are still optomistic
If you have a battery charger (or jumpleads..)
you could probably try yourself.. with some guidance
Getting late now..
Speak to you in 2023
you could probably try yourself.. with some guidance
Getting late now..
Speak to you in 2023
I would say it's not the same problem because you corrected the oil level.
Now it's a no start issue.
PS when previously you were told there was no oil left..there must have been some oil otherwise the red light for no oil pressure would have been on. If the red oil light had been on and vehicle driven then catastrophic engine damage could have happened.
Was vehicle driven with red oil light on?
no oil light ever came on...until i emptied all the oil and put key in....I cleaned it more yesterday, and tried to turn her over, i nearly got hr started, think there is oil under the injectors, gonna get them pulled out and see if she starts and pushes out whatever is there. Will keep you updated! thanks for help so far.
great news you had no oil light(-:
Plus you nearly got it started also great news. Was that with jump start from another vehicle or after recharging battery?
If you can get it started any oil in the cylinders will get burned away, smoky exhaust until it's gone.
well done for sticking with it.
Plus you nearly got it started also great news. Was that with jump start from another vehicle or after recharging battery?
If you can get it started any oil in the cylinders will get burned away, smoky exhaust until it's gone.
well done for sticking with it.
Tip.
When you crank the engine..
Warm the plugs TWICE..
ignition on.. coily glow symbol
Ignition off then back on
Depress clutch pedal.. ignition back on
As soon as coil symbol goes out.
CRANK !!
The reason for pressing the clutch:
It measns you just Crank the engine.. not the Gearbox
A cold gearbox saps power..
With a Compression Ignition motor...
The warmer and faster spinning the better
If it fires on 2 cylinders.. it will kick in the other 2 as revs rise
When you crank the engine..
Warm the plugs TWICE..
ignition on.. coily glow symbol
Ignition off then back on
Depress clutch pedal.. ignition back on
As soon as coil symbol goes out.
CRANK !!
The reason for pressing the clutch:
It measns you just Crank the engine.. not the Gearbox
A cold gearbox saps power..
With a Compression Ignition motor...
The warmer and faster spinning the better
If it fires on 2 cylinders.. it will kick in the other 2 as revs rise
hi again guys! you 2 are great! So I got her started with a jump, left her for a bit, but then something came up and we had to go out so o turned her off...Called RAC today and got her started with jump pack. got them to recover her to garage, who are going to have a look at her next Tues to assess any unseen damage. Will keep you updated.Tip.
When you crank the engine..
Warm the plugs TWICE..
ignition on.. coily glow symbol
Ignition off then back on
Depress clutch pedal.. ignition back on
As soon as coil symbol goes out.
CRANK !!
The reason for pressing the clutch:
It measns you just Crank the engine.. not the Gearbox
A cold gearbox saps power..
With a Compression Ignition motor...
The warmer and faster spinning the better
If it fires on 2 cylinders.. it will kick in the other 2 as revs rise
got the RAC to recover it to the garage...RAC man broke the clutch, snapped the master cylinder...mechanic reckons he got his boot stuck under the clutch pedal and just wrenched his foot out, as the pedal was way up against the dash...have lodged complaint WITH RAC. Parts for that arriving today, so hopefully he will get that sorted and then be able to start vehicle safely and let her run. Will keep you updated
WAHOOO...all fixed! Mechanic replaced master cylinder for clutch, cleaned intercooler, exhaust and some really oily sensors, and she's purring beautifully now. Thanks everyone for all your advice! I know a lot more about this vehicle now!
