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Seicento Monster Cento/ECU Master Thread

Introduction

Well starting this is well overdue although technically it's still just a car and a big pile of bits at the moment. It will come together quickly though as I have access to a commercial garage in the evenings and on weekends which belongs to a good friend. I'm lucky enough to have another good friend who is a self employed coded welder/fabricator and yet another good friend who owns a powder coating business. Myself, I do electronics so pretty much everything is covered. :D

I'm not going to go into minor details as most of it has been discussed before (especially the engine which was purchased from Gazzaman). However I will answer any questions and will go into detail with the DET 3 setup and installation as there are no UK guides I'm aware of for this.

So the car:

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A 2000 SPI Seicento Abarth (probably manufactured late 1999) which replaces the silver Cinq (SPI Turbocharged) I have recently sold for restoration. The silver chap needed some TLC due to a bad repair from a rear collision before I purchased him. Someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse so I sold him on with the standard engine and pinched Mrs. Honeymonsters Sei after buying her a newer yellow ragtop replacement which I got a good deal on but wasn't really suitable for my project.

The planned spec is as follows, only thing I'm missing is the TB. Now Sorted (thanks Blu!)


Specification
1.2 Punto 75 Engine
Fully balanced rebuilt bottom end and crank
Ported Punto 75 MPI head with 3 angle cut valves
866 Cam with Piper vernier adjustable pulley
16v pistons/rods with skimmed block/head to adjust for suitable turbo compression
Port matched HT coated Punto 75 inlet manifold with rebuilt and tested Larger MGF VVT Injectors
Strongflex Polyurethane engine mounts
HKS mushroom filter
ECU Master ECU using fuel implant technology running MPI and solenoid boost control
Brand new GT17 Turbo with Forge racing billet actuator
Custom tigg welded GT17 exhaust manifold with high temperature coating
Forge racing billet Dump valve
Upgraded Fuel pump
Adjustable Boost referencing fuel pressure regulator
Lightened 1.2 flywheel with C&G clutch
Custom exhaust/downpipe with Magnex stainless steel silencer
Renault 5 Turbo polished and uprated Intercooler with Samco pipes and stainless bends
9 row oil cooler with Stainless braided lines
Kinugawa Stainless braided turbo water and oil feeds
Modified brand new sump tig welded for oil return and breather
Aluminum oil catch can with baffle and breather filter
Lower temperature 85c thermostat
New pumps, belts, tensioners
New leads and custom injector loom
All new seals rings and bearings
Aluminum radiator
Sparco strutbrace
Quaiffe ATB differential with new drive shafts and cv joints
Uno turbo or Punto GT Calipers (have both) with vented/grooved discs and pads
-40mm springs and upgraded shocks
Hel Braided brake lines
Monroe adjustable camber bolts (Corrected thanks Brooky :)
New tie rods and track rod ends
All suspension components including rear beam, arms etc. and front hubs, arms etc. removed and powder coated black.
Momo steering wheel, pedals and gear knob
Soundsream old skool reference series amplifier
Soundstream high end 6.5" component speakers
Image dynamics IDQ10 sub hidden in the spare wheel well.
Orion Ultra rare old school digital parametric equaliser
Audio control ESP2 spatial restoration unit
Alpine F1 Head Unit

I will just post some pictures of the bits for now and then intermittently as I fit them.

I do however need to keep this car mobile to park it back in my workshop so it will be done in big chunks.

Cheers
Honey I'm home :D

All set up and functioning. :slayer:

There is a small mistake in my crank sensor wiring diagram. You only need to connect the red to the DET and the outer sleeving to earth. The outer sleeving is already earthed at the ECU end so it's easier just to intercept the red here and run it back to the DET 3 (screened cable with the screen earthed at one end). DO NOT connect the white wire from the crank sensor at all (I will update the diagram later). The DET is generating white half by itself and this is how it modifies the signal. If you connect the white to ground you will get a misfire and the rpm won't sync (trust me....).

I did the calculation for the temp sensors and ended up with 2027 for the RX on both.

Example: RX=10000x(4.895-4.070)/4.070= 2027

They are the same sensors in different casings. Then to add insult to injury it turns out ATS04 is selectable as a predefined sensor. So just select ASO4 in the menu for IAT and CLT and click generate and it's all done for you. Both the RX and temperature values!! (y)

At least I double checked I guess. Couldn't do the MAP sensor because I forgot to take the Cosy 3 bar one with me and it wasn't worth doing the FCD/diode wiring without this. (hence I'm home a bit early). :bang:

However upped the timing 2 degrees throughout the rev range for the drive home, didn't notice much difference to be honest but at least I know it all works perfectly. :D

The car drives like the DET isn't even connected and the the DET is generating the advanced timing signals!! :slayer:

TPS set up was stupidly easy, just set the top value untill you get 0% with foot off and the second value until you get a 100% with foot on.

Showed the system to my friend who tunes rally cars (and owns the garage) and he was suitably impressed (he normally hates piggy backs, don't most...).

More good news I now should have full use of the load bearing rolling road at the local college for about £50 a day, and the help of my friend (Matt the tuner) so we'll really get to see how accurate the DET RR is and I'll end up with an excellent proffesional tune. More on this later... ;)

I used VR adaptive and 60-2 for the timing menu but I will post screen shots of all my settings when I get a bit more time.

I am a seriously happy chappy. :D:D:D

I've posted a few random photos below, they aren't the best I was rather busy. I used individual sreened audio cable for the crank signal wires in the end, it's all I had but works great.

It started first time, and reved and synced fine after I cuth the white wire I shouldn't have grounded.

More to follow, with a bit of luck I will get the 3 bar sensor fitted this afternoon. :slayer::slayer::slayer:
 

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Sorry to mess up your thread with this, but: am I stupid, or is the thanks button not available anymore?
 
Hi guys thanks for your kind comments they are very much appretiated. :)

I have fitted the second Map sensor and FCD circuit now, everything seems to be working great.

A slight modification is required to my original FCD diagram as shown below. When I used the earth on the sensor plug for the Zener it upset the ECU and caused a misfire. You must earth the Zener diode elsewhere, I used the ecu casing ground but any chassis ground should work fine.

Things are moving along nicely, the mapping screens seem very responsive and intuitive. :D

Cheers

Monster
 

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It's always best to do the primary tune on a load bearing RR if you can as all load conditions can be simulated consistantly and easily. Final tune is best done on the actual road.

Doing a full tune on a public road would also be very dificult on an Island with a 40mph speed limit. ;)
 
OK, so I had a little time at work today while I was soak testing some machines. As I mentioned before I was far from convinced having the 10k resistor inline with the MAP signal cable on the FCD circuit wouldn't atentuate the signal under normal conditions with the map circuit being so wimpy.

So I built the circuit on my bench and tested it using a current limiting bench power supply and a multimeter...

Guess what, it attentuated the signal A LOT.

In fact I tried a range of lower value resistors and all of the made some impact, even though much less (as I expected). Since we have no easy way of increasing the refference voltage we'll have to go with a bit of brutal electronics (or suffer poor MAP calibration).

So below is the final version I suggest. That is a version using the tried and tested method of no resistor. I'm using a 1.3w 4.3v Zener so the small amount of current it has to bleed to earth won't cause it any damage or create excessive heat.

The moral of this story is, if in doubt.... test it.

This set up without a current limiting resistor would normaly be considered bad practice in electronics (watches electronics chaps shudder), but it's a proven working method. If you don't like it don't use it. :p

Also the problem of it completely removing fuel cut allowing overboost (which it would do on a car running a standard ECU) are not applicable since the DET has over boost safety/fuel cut control refferencing the second MAP sensor and has complete control of the fueling. :D

Last FCD diagram I promise... look on the bright side, it's even easier to connect up. :)

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No big update this weekend I'm afraid. I had to spend some time with Mrs. Honeymonster or I'd of ended up single. Did put the diff in the gearbox after giving it a degrease but only took one picture as its pretty straight forward.

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Hope to get a lot done next weekend. Been driving the car everyday when I can, no issues at the moment all the new parts are working nicely.
 
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