Technical Liar, Liar, God Dam Liar..

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Technical Liar, Liar, God Dam Liar..

That's true, it could also receive some damage from a nuclear strike nearby, it's just not that likely to happen and I doubt that it was the oil filter that seized the 2.4. You said it yourself - there is a bypass valve. Tell me about one scenario where you receive a low oil pressure warning and the engine's already ruined? What happened beforehand?... and as I said before: is the low oil pressure a consequence of some damage that occurred beforehand or was it the CAUSE for it to happen, because I think we're talking about different things here.

I'm on about what low pressure can do, not what causes the low pressure to occur. Your post state that if the light come on pressure will be below 0.3 bar and it'll be fine, which I'm clarrifying for people who perhaps are not in the know this is not the case.

Yes at .025 bar the engine may not seize instantly, but considerable wear may happen and what's I say that when the oil light come on its because there is next to no pressure at all which could cause seizure?

Youve state that pressure below 0.3bar will illuminate the light, but with the light on you've know guarantee that there is any pressure at all there.
 
I'm on about what low pressure can do, not what causes the low pressure to occur. Your post state that if the light come on pressure will be below 0.3 bar and it'll be fine, which I'm clarrifying for people who perhaps are not in the know this is not the case.

Where exactly did I ever say that, seems like you've missed half my posts and we keep discussing this just for the sake of discussing.
The low oil pressure warning comes when the pressure drops below 0.3 bar, driving constantly with such pressure may of course cause premature wear but this situation is very unlikely, the oil pump is either working or not working.
Anyway, I shared my thoughts, no more replies from me on that topic. I would be very interested though to find out what exactly happened to @volxstu’s engine and who’s to blame
 
The important thing for people to understand is that oil pressurized into your crank bearings creates a fluid cushion between the moving parts. If the engine is running full steam and the oil pressure drops it can cause the moving surfaces to collide -especially from piston stroke forces- and cause irreparable damage to the bearings. It's basically like a hover craft moving full speed over concrete, the air is the fluid that creates the cushion and no direct contact is made between the ground and the craft. If suddenly the air supply stopped the craft would plummet into the ground and cause severe damage as it skidded to a halt. That's the point when your oil light comes on :)

I like analogies :D

P.s. don't argue with me, I'm an engineer!
 
:confused:

now ive seen 3 different stories

1) Oil Pressure is Created @ Crank
2) Oil Pressure is Created by Oil Pump
3) Oil Pressure is Created by smaller drillings downstream of the oil pump (the volume of oil being forced through these smaller drillings is where the pressure is created)


discuss
 
:confused:

now ive seen 3 different stories

1) Oil Pressure is Created @ Crank
2) Oil Pressure is Created by Oil Pump
3) Oil Pressure is Created by smaller drillings downstream of the oil pump (the volume of oil being forced through these smaller drillings is where the pressure is created)


discuss

I love the way you always say discuss :D

Using deduction its not 1 as if it were a pump wouldn't be needed surely?

I'd say its a combination of 2 & 3?
 
the smaller galleries is a new one on me i figured the pump fed the crank and that created the pressure! Thats why when your big end shells wear you loose oil pressure surely if its made by narrow drillings 'pre-crank' then regardless of shell condition oil pressure would remain!?
 
the smaller galleries is a new one on me i figured the pump fed the crank and that created the pressure! Thats why when your big end shells wear you loose oil pressure surely if its made by narrow drillings 'pre-crank' then regardless of shell condition oil pressure would remain!?

I think you've actually hit the nail on the head there. So we agreed its no 1? Lol. :eek:
 
I think you've actually hit the nail on the head there. So we agreed its no 1? Lol. :eek:

I think the issue on this thread is:

1) People who don't know what they're talking about who share their opinion
2) People who know what they're talking about but cant communicate their opinion accurately
3) People who like to be silly and confuse everyone else

Silliness, my old friend.
 
I'm glad i found this thread, getting my beast back tomorrow and its not going anywhere without looking at the oil first!
 
I think you've actually hit the nail on the head there. So we agreed its no 1? Lol. :eek:
thats why i didnt understand that the oil pump created pressure... it might... but as i said if shells wear there is a pressure drop... with the pressure being created pre crank this drop in oil pressure wouldn't happen... im all for learning new stuff and being proven wrong, its how life is!

I think the issue on this thread is:

1) People who don't know what they're talking about who share their opinion
2) People who know what they're talking about but cant communicate their opinion accurately
3) People who like to be silly and confuse everyone else

Silliness, my old friend.

Discuss
 
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all the things mentioned need to be working fine to maintan good oil pressure, so everyone is right. you also need correct crank case presure, blocked vents and worn or sticky piston rings can also affect pressure.

Ok heres the discussion:

Oil is drawn (sucked) by the oil pump from the sump - crank case pressure (air inside the engine case) helps this. The pump is driven by the crank shaft. The oil that moves through the pump is delivered by tubes and holes to the necessary areas as volume and flow - like a garden hose.

When the oil reaches a location it will enter a cavity that will have an inlet and smaller outlet. This will therefore create pressure as oil can get in but struggles to escape - like spraying the hose into the top of a coke bottle, you will fill it and then pressurise the bottle and water will spray and leak from the top. This is your crank bearings.

Another type of oil delivery is the spray method. This is used for moving parts in the head and literally just soaks everything with oil. This just uses the same oil from the pump but as 'jets' by drilling small holes in a delivery pipe - like a leak in your garden hose half way along which always sprays a mist in the air when the hose is on.

All outlets drain into the engine case and the oil drains back into the sump for reuse.

It's important to use the correct grade of oil because when the engine is designed the engineers decide what size holes to drill. If the holes are big and your oil is too thin then the pressure wont build up. If the holes are small and the oil is thick your pressure will be high but volumetric flow will be low and you'll overheat the oil.

If there is no oil you are screwed.

Fin.
 
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