Technical Leaky gearbox

[apliggins]

Hello again - sorry should have told you it’s a TA model - as I’d taken out the wheel arch protectors and stripped the old springs and shockers I foolishly decided to change the rear discs - I’m going to add to a recent thread telling of my fight to remove the old discs then back to the gearbox and I’m going to measure just how much of the worlds most expensive oil is in it
Thanks for everyone’s help so far

 

[Panda IIs]

Hello again - sorry should have told you it’s a TA model - as I’d taken out the wheel arch protectors and stripped the old springs and shockers I foolishly decided to change the rear discs - I’m going to add to a recent thread telling of my fight to remove the old discs then back to the gearbox and I’m going to measure just how much of the worlds most expensive oil is in it
Thanks for everyone’s help so far

Did you check out the rear disc threads on here..?

 

[apliggins]

I have read a couple of them - but couldn’t find one that was successful with a 2014 TA. Cross like mine

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

I have read a couple of them - but couldn’t find one that was successful with a 2014 TA. Cross like mine

There is a good write up already, from ‘YellowCar’. The rear discs (and the rest of the rear set up) are identical for all the 4x4 models (‘regular’ and Cross) and both engines (diesel and TA)
(My local Fiat specialist did the rear discs and pads in a hour, by removing the hub nut and pulling the whole lot off to do on a bench - and charged very little too!)

 

[TTR]

Eh up apliggins

I have to agree with Herts , the setup on yours is the same as mine on a 16 plate.

You seem to know your way round with the spanner’s so I would not anticipate the rear discs being an issue to you.

Have a read of the thread above, im sure I amongst others added our experience/tips to do the job.

The absolute PIA is undoing the caps bolts - it’s only time n patience, once there off it’s a doddle

Hope this helps

 

[apliggins]

Hello again - sorry should have told you it’s a TA model - as I’d taken out the wheel arch protectors and stripped the old springs and shockers I foolishly decided to change the rear discs - I’m going to add to a recent thread telling of my fight to remove the old discs then back to the gearbox and I’m going to measure just how much of the worlds most expensive oil is in it
Thanks for everyone’s help so far

Update on Leaky gearbox
Contributors who mentioned that my car may have a coolant leak are correct this was indeed the pink liquid falling on the driveway - it also has a leak from the sump so there’s oil as well in the mix - that said the gearbox is still wet. So on we go replacing the prop shaft remove the central UJ cover and alas x2 of the treaded bar just twist off with the nuts but being careful to move the nuts down and then back up they recut the rusted thread and I’ve x2 - will have to think of the best way to re- locate.
Finally found the front gearbox filler screw and managed to remove #2 photo.
Couldn’t see it as the very rusty Uber engine skid plate was in the way - once this moved all ok .
Drained gearbox oil it seemed to me to be in a bit of a state maybe never changed 10 years 80k miles took its toll - photo 4 Care as there was a sudden gush at 600 ml. Total after an hour dripping just under 2 lts
Then moved to rear and removed fill and drain plugs using 18mm socket - fill one will not come out unless drive shaft is rotated to give clearance Photo 5 .
Removed internal bung using long nose pliers photo 6 fluid here started off bright red then moved to a darker brown with quite a few of what looked like metal fragments in it only 550 ml in the rear.
Once all fluids removed took out the x6 6 mm hex bolts from each end of the prop care as there’s not much room in the front set, rears were in much tighter - one set of x2 are larger than all the rest in the rear and they have x2 washers photo 7
Then removed the x2 16mm bolts that hold the centre UJ that on my care has completely shot see photo 8
Now our friends on U tube just drop the prop from the middle - but that’s not happening with mine from what I can see both ends are welded with rust and they refuse to budge even when threatened with the lump hammer.
So I’ve sprayed yet again with penetrating oil and will leave it overnight - maybe I’ll find it at the bottom in my garage pit in the morning ha ha.

 

[TTR]

Eh up

Great work keep going.

I’m surprised at the gearbox oil - that’s pretty , I’ve drained my 100k BMW and it’s a lot better than that

Still can only get better once the new oils are in.

The bash plate is typical, just give it a good blast with wire brush/ wheel and Dinitrol it, stainless steel fittings and refit

The rear drive shaft blocking the nut extraction is about right - love Fiat engineers I bless them regularly in Yorkshire Dialect

Can you get a little heat on the offending nuts and crack off from there, even a standard blow lamp should be warm enough to crack it off

Keep us updated on what you find, I can only assume oil leak maybe from sump seal but just doesn’t seem logical from where your seeing it come from, the coolant leak tracking round somehow from water pump housing .?

Or is it heating pipes through bulkhead and down that way ?

Hope it gets sorted tomorrow - been in your position and I got massive help on here from everyone which helped me solve my issues

 

[apliggins]

Update:
So after a bit of a holiday I’ve managed to remove the old prop - it’s very rusty and as a result it had welded itself to both ends - the only way to get the front one off was to use an Allen key in a non threaded hole at the back of the connector and hit this with a lump hammer - the rear holder only has the required x6 tapped holes and so the only way to loosen this was back to the lump hammer and a sharp chisel

Now I have the next problem the nut that is now visible is a 36mm and you need a narrow walled socket to get at it but as soon as I apply force the whole thing moves even when I chocked both front wheels there is no way that nut is going to undo - anyone got any ideas as to how I can lock the casting to allow the nut to be removed?
In the mean time I’m removing the rust from both ends and I’m going to seal the non threaded holes to try to keep the pesky water out
Thanks again Andrew

 

[bugsymike]

Update:
So after a bit of a holiday I’ve managed to remove the old prop - it’s very rusty and as a result it had welded itself to both ends - the only way to get the front one off was to use an Allen key in a non threaded hole at the back of the connector and hit this with a lump hammer - the rear holder only has the required x6 tapped holes and so the only way to loosen this was back to the lump hammer and a sharp chisel

Now I have the next problem the nut that is now visible is a 36mm and you need a narrow walled socket to get at it but as soon as I apply force the whole thing moves even when I chocked both front wheels there is no way that nut is going to undo - anyone got any ideas as to how I can lock the casting to allow the nut to be removed?
In the mean time I’m removing the rust from both ends and I’m going to seal the non threaded holes to try to keep the pesky water out
Thanks again Andrew

Try having someone holding the brake pedal on hard, I find some times that can help.

 

[TTR]

Eh up apliggins

Mmm that’s a bu88er.

Have you got access to a windy gun - you might try n shock it off.

Not sure if this will work or not but try gear box in reverse, not entirely sure I’m right on this point though.

Or as bugsmike suggest stamp on brakes to see if that delivers enough resistance

Can’t think of owt else just yet

 

[bugsymike]

As @TTR says a decent impact gun would shift it.
I have, when stuck and on my own used a very large Stilson wrapped around and then jammed against the ground to hold stuff.