Technical Kingpins and why Factory books are better

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Technical Kingpins and why Factory books are better

Bigvtwin996

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Well there has been much talk about Kingpins and the whys and wherefores of doing them or paying for exchange ones..
Personally I like to DIM (do it Myself) not for saving time or money simply because If i do something and it's done by the book I know it's done right, and if it isn't there is only me to blame... 12 months or 12,000 miles warranty sound great, but then there is the proving something was fitted correctly blaa blahh so most just accept it and replace..

One of the problems we have is the "old school" repair/recondition shops are dying out, and I like to see the threads where people have done stuff themselves and given all the pitfalls of the "replacements that we have to deal with, and seeing those pitfalls makes me wonder do the people who most likely use the same "kits" to do reconditioning actually re engineer them so they are correct if faulty.

So, there has been much talk about the kits and how to put them together, but going back a stage how were the bushes replaced/reamed originally done... I have spent some time looking at the general reaming of king pins for other cars and the possibilities for a 500.. so what tools did the factory supply to dealers?
Well if you have Factory supplied Workshop manuals they usually show an array of amazing devices for doing all sorts of things from undoing a steering wheel center nut to checking the chassis alignment.. I am not sure Haynes show these things as they would most likely not had access to the tools... my own experience of using the 8mm spanner to undo the "bypass flange nut" is not the same as Mr Haynes, and the "offset rotary displacement pump" is actually still in the general mechanical device and not sitting on a work bench which would mean removing 27 other components so I can't get the spanner in...
So bear in mind my books are for the Prototype version of the 500 the "N"uvoa
here are the pics of the tools in use for refurbishing kingpins..

Well
1) Suspension Bush removal


2) King pin Bush removal


3) check stub-axle/Kingpin top/bottom alignment to see it is not twisted


4) Insert new bushes
(have missed out pic insert bushes as the same tool is used to remove them)

5) Ream Bushes


This answers the questions of what sort of reamer was used.. a single pilot reamer, two reamers... Well a big long one!!!!
ohh but what if you don't ream them straight?????

6) Check bush alignment and ... take measurements... WHAT!!!! (note Arrow)


I love the special cloth used in the Vice obviously to prevent damage...

After reassembly...... (I may cover that in another thread.... or add it on here when my brain recovered from translating..)

7) Take your Castor/Camber measuring Factory tool - Not going onto all the pics here


8) do lots of reading twisting to various positions and apply to the formula...

9) Insert the appropriate shims - hands up who has done this???
to correct any changes to the defined settings, caused by any changes in the angles of the steering created when re bushing the kingpins


Isn't that a nice little eye opener!!!

the tools for cylinder head work are simply ingenious works of mechanical art

10) congratulate yourself on a job well done as you know that no garage would have done the last part! Have a sit down and a drink as you deserve it.

Requests for more pictures of such wonders are open for discussion...
If there is a particular thing anyone would like.... let me know I'll see if I have the stuff here to upload...
 
When you consider that many folk appear to have done huge amounts of strip-down and then welding new panels in around the mounting area for the stub-axles, the micro adjustments after simply reaming the new bushes that Fiat are talking about here seem of negligible importance. But if the manufacturer went to the trouble of devising and then making all of those specialised gauges, it seems likely that the precision was important and maybe owners should find ways to check the geometry of their steering system.

It's obvious that no-one at Fiat had needed to remove the Estendeblocks from the kingpin housing as bashing it, even with Tool No. 66056 would be likely to cause a significant amount of bad language and despair.

As for that camber-checking device; I think Fiat must have had a nice little side-line in tool production and training...it looks a right "macchinoso".
 
it seems likely that the precision was important

It is quite amazing really that for such a simple car Fiat were quite concerned about the accuracy of such things and as you say the amount of work performed not only on fiat but also that so many cars literally "unpicked" and put back together, how many are really check in that way...

I can see another Gov type money making scheme... IVA for modified cars to see they are of a certain standard....
I can see them looking at restored cars one day...
 
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I can see them looking at restored cars one day...

..they should do already. I was at the Glasgow Museum of Transport a few weeks ago. No Fiat 500 but entire steam locomotives upstairs and hanging over a balcony; very modern, very big and free of charge(y); but I digress. They had an actual "cut-and-shut" sporty '80's Escort impounded by the Police. The story was that it was at least three bodyshells stitched together with "shoddy" welding. TBH, a lot of the welding that could be seen was better than I have seen in a lot of restorations. It had poor shut-lines etc, but ditto with many restorations.
Effectively, many of our cars (including mine) have had almost the equivalent work done on them by amateurs, That will often have seriously affexted the alignment of the chassis and that't before you even start to consider the effect of replacing the kingpins, rubber bushes and suspension arms.:eek:
You should look at the device which is used to determine the shims each side of the silentbloc in the rear supension arms; it's really clever. There are no more than three shims maximum possible each side and the deflection these can achieve will be very little. But there's a tool that would probably cost at least the equivalent of a £1,000 to make, and it has only that one purpose.:bang:
 
I didn’t bother with number 3, I used my mk1 engineers eye instead

Hi Paolo can you post a few pictures of your eye so I can include it, also gives other a chance to see if theirs is similar... I know Peter in Scotland will be interested as his eyes are just not up to the task and he may be able to make something similar...:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

If you fancy knocking up a second set of tools I'd be interested..
Were you able to acquire a reamer long enough to go through both Bushes?
I can't find one anywhere... One company said they could produce a Double King pin reamer to my specs...
 
here's my magic engineers eye
 

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Hi Paolo can you post a few pictures of your eye so I can include it, also gives other a chance to see if theirs is similar... I know Peter in Scotland will be interested as his eyes are just not up to the task and he may be able to make something similar...:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

If you fancy knocking up a second set of tools I'd be interested..
Were you able to acquire a reamer long enough to go through both Bushes?
I can't find one anywhere... One company said they could produce a Double King pin reamer to my specs...



It took years of military training to gain my mk1 engineers eye so I can only show it if you have signed the official secrets act. Tony Vitesse has one also. If any one needs the tools I will gladly lend them out. The reamer is not quite long enough but again I trusted on my years of military training. I posted it all up on the stickie thread about king pins and I also wrote an article about it for a Fiat 500 club magazine
 
I can only show it if you have signed the official secrets act.

Well I am XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX I used to work for the Gov. so XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
XXXX allowed to :):). I could tell more but would have to shoot you....

Sorry had to edit that due to not disclosing some details as you are covered for life on some things.......

I saw the sticky but was trying to expand on that as to how the factory did it...
as it seems several of the Kingpin "kits" are of dubious quality and I don't trust exchange if they are using the same kits..
I want my own tools (but many thanks for the offer of a loan)... as I fear yours may never be returned...:D...
and don't do clubs (did for a short while but too few N's in the UK..)

Any ideas how long the "long Reamer" would have to be?

P.
 
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I’m in Spain at the moment but when I get back I will dig it all out and do some measurements for you. It would be dead easy to attach a pilot bush to the reamer I should have done that in the first place
 
I’m in Spain at the moment but when I get back I will dig it all out and do some measurements for you. It would be dead easy to attach a pilot bush to the reamer I should have done that in the first place

Don't hurry back! :D

(the weather is miserable )

AL.
 
I vaguely remember an article in one of the car magazines c. 1975? which showed the re-bushing of king-pins being carried out in some machine shop in the U.K. which seemed to specialize in Fiats. They reamed the fitted bushes with the kingpin carrier mounted in a lathe.

Al.
 
Blimey these eyes seem popular must get one before they run out...
I have spoken to many people who re-bush MGs, Moggy's etc
and a couple of Old timer guys who have several engineers eyes, they also have those heat proof fingers that they pick up hot coals with to put back in the furnace...
They were quite impressed that I was considering Re-bushing and reaming, and asked why I just didn't replace the Uprights.. then ensued a conversation about Morris 8's and all sorts of vehicles that had to have something re-bushed and it's not like that today....

I can get a single Reamer with a pilot shaft/bush and centralizng cone relatively easy (not all reamers accept the pilot shaft)..

If using a lathe yes you can do it but the set up time really means you have to do loads to make the time taken worth while...

but reading Seans experience of the latest King pin kits means there may be modifications required...


I'm not in the UK either but more miserable where I am... so hence lots of posts lol..
 
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If using a lathe yes you can do it but the set up time really means you have to do loads to make the time taken worth while...
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Iirc, the engineering workshop had a special fixture for mounting the upright on the lathe, so set up time was minimal. They also had some way of checking the stub axle to kingpin bores alignment. As I suggested, they seemed to specialize in Fiats. Wish I could remember the Company name but sadly, probably long gone now.

Al.
 
You should look at the device which is used to determine the shims each side of the silentbloc in the rear supension arms; it's really clever. There are no more than three shims maximum possible each side and the deflection these can achieve will be very little. But there's a tool that would probably cost at least the equivalent of a £1,000 to make, and it has only that one purpose.:bang:

So they get the toe-in (or is that toe-out?) spot-on.
And then they go and fit suspension with a crazy amount of camber change! :D

I'm not sure if I'm thinking of the same tool but I remember seeing a picture of a fixture at the factory for setting up the rear suspension arms and holding them in the correct position for fitting to the bodyshell. It was huge!

Al.
 
As I suggested, they seemed to specialize in Fiats.

apologies I missed that..

The MG/Moggy guys said if they did them regularly they would make up a mount and do them in the lathe,

It does seem more and more these types of companies are disappearing... the oily engineering workshops of old are being replaced more and more with these Science Park type places with CNC stuff enclosed in Glass cases.

My mate left his Unit he had been in for 15 years running his welding company, a new landlord brought all the units, and issued end of tenancy notices and offered new agreements with increased rents, which stated things like "Waste Skips must be located within the units and the areas used for Storage are for Car parking, no excessive noise should be audible from outside of any of the units". The place really does look like a Science Park now, all new landscaped grass verges and shrubs. Think there are only 2 of the original tenants there still..
 
Fiat produced lots and lots of special tools for all sorts of applications.
I've often wondered how many of these tools were to be found in a typical Fiat Dealer's workshop. And how many of them got used.

I worked in A Fiat Main Dealer's workshop back in the 1970's/'80's.
Lots of the tools had been lost, stolen:eek:, loaned to customers/other garages and never returned, modified by 'heathens' in the workshop, parts of a multi-part tool lost- thereby rendering it useless, etc.

Then management, after 2 failed (the people chosen didn't work-out) attempts to recruit a replacement Service Manager, decided that they would incorporate the role of S.M. into the duties of the Parts Manager and make him the 'After-Sales Manager'. He had no experience of working on cars, decided we had enough 'Special Tools' and refused to order any more, returning crates of new tools if they arrived from Fiat. This worked out brilliantly. Especially when a new engine type appeared in the workshop for 1st service including re-torqueing the cyl. head bolts and we didn't have the special tools essential for doing this.(iirc the 1050cc sohc used in the Ritmo/127 mk3.). He also wouldn't send any qualified mechanics on training courses (too costly), if he had to, he'd send a 2nd year apprentice. That worked out great also.

Don't always bash the Mechanic, it might not be his fault if things aren't done correctly or damage is caused, he's probably doing his best under the circumstances.....

Al.
 
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