Technical Idle too high

[g8rpi]

So if I use the same brake drum, and put in new shoes, springs, hoses, etc, how should I clean the existing drum?

Funnily enough, brake cleaner. This is a solvent or blend of solvents designed for the job.
American brands are CRC Brakleen, Valolene Brake parts cleaner
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VCR681046
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRC05051
(above examples only other suppliers and brands available)
Both are available in aerosol or jugs, take your choice.
Note that the old linings almost certainly contain asbestos so wear a dust mask at least.

Robert G8RPI.

 

[turbo500]

Realized after I wrote my post that brakeleen is what I would need.

So if I were to do all 4 brakes, here is the list of stuff I figured I would need:

-4 brake shoes per axle
-4 brake cylinders
-2 front brake hoses + 2 rear brake hoses
-4 drums (if I decide to change those as well)
-1 brake pump (if I decide to change that)
-6 brake pipe retaining clips
-2 banjo bolt for brake cylinder
-2 retaining clips for banjo bolt
-4 copper banjo bolt washers
-8 spring for brake shoe
-anti seize
Does this seem right?

Isn't there also a bolt that is left handed and another that is right handed for the front brakes?

Anyone know the size of the split pins/cotter pins for the rear handbrake?

 

[Paolo66]

Seems right. I would measure the inner diameter of your drums. There is a maximum diameter and once beyond this the brake efficiency is compromised. Also check for scores and marks. The front drums are held on by nuts and one is left hand thread and one is right hand thread. These are peened into a slot in the hub to secure them and should be used once only so I would get new ones. The split pin for the handbrake is a small thin one. Sorry dont know the exact size but I have a kit of various split pins and just cut down one of the correct diameter

 

[turbo500]

Thanks Paolo, I'll just pick up the cotter pins at the hardware store.

Yeah the cost is so cheap for the hub nut that I'll get new ones and clean the old ones for backup. I noticed there is also a lock ring for the hub nut, is that standard equipment?

Edit: I'm looking at the workshop manual, and I can't find the banjo bolt mentioned anywhere, where is it located?

 

[Paolo66]

The banjo bolt attaches the front flexible brake hoses to the cylinders. A copper washer on each face (2 per side) and a special lock washer to hold it in place

 

[turbo500]

Ok thanks.

On a side note, what light bulbs do I need for the dashboard and the two lights on either side of the dashboard?

I keep finding people saying 12V 4W and others say 12V 3W. Always bayonet BA9s base.

 

[Vitesse]

Ok thanks.

On a side note, what light bulbs do I need for the dashboard and the two lights on either side of the dashboard?

I keep finding people saying 12V 4W and others say 12V 3W. Always bayonet BA9s base.

Both my manuals say 2.5W. Don't put any higher in or it will melt the lens.

 

[Vitesse]

As I said in a previous post. I would double check that you can undo the brake pipes from the rear of the wheel cylinders before ordering any parts.

I did exactly the same with my own restoration, massive order of parts including all the brake parts. I wasn't intending to replace the pipes as they looked ok. I went to remove the old cylinders and install the new wheel cylinders and the nuts wouldn't shift and just rounded off. Just try a quarter turn on each pipe to make sure they are loose, you are going to have to drain the hydraulic fluid out anyway.

I had to cut the brake pipes in the end and replace them with new.

Tony

 

[turbo500]

Hi Tony, even if I am ordering new pipes? If they are stuck wouldn't I just drill them out if they wont budge?

In either case, thanks for the heads up, I will try and turn them for all 4 corners to prepare myself for what kind of a jo lies ahead!

 

[Vitesse]

Hi Tony, even if I am ordering new pipes? If they are stuck wouldn't I just drill them out if they wont budge?

In either case, thanks for the heads up, I will try and turn them for all 4 corners to prepare myself for what kind of a jo lies ahead!

You just undo the two nuts holding the wheel cylinder to the back plate. They are not normally a problem. The problem is the wheel cylinder comes out the shoe side of the back plate and the pipe comes through a hole in the back plate from the other side, so if the pipe is stuck in the back of the cylinder its easiest just to chop the pipe an inch or so away from the wheel cylinder and take the wheel cylinder and bit of pipe remaining off and chuck it in the trash!

Do you like that I speak American now! Trash!

Tony

 

[turbo500]

lol don't blame me, I'm also coming to terms with the reality of living in America, writing on a UK forum, about an Italian car

Will report back when I hopefully manage to unscrew the hoses.

Edit: I wrote in another thread asking about popular websites to order from, but no one replied. At the end of the day pricing is pretty even across the board, it comes down to shipping. Anyone have any recommendations of a website with fair shipping costs to the US from Europe?

 

[Vitesse]

The two I use the most are, but I am in the UK, they are reasonable for shipping to here and very helpful.

https://www.fiat500vdlaan.nl/en/index.php.

Leo is the main man there, so could be worth an email to him for shipping costs.


https://webshop.fiat500126.com/?&&g...GwodqP0ItQ?&&gclid=CLnf_push9UCFdUaGwodqP0ItQ

I can't remember the name of the guy I deal with there? But very helpful. Both speak good English.

I normally add everything to the basket then cut and paste the basket in an email to get shipping costs, then pay with PayPal.

UK based spares companies are a rip off, you pay at least a third more for the same thing you can buy in Europe even after shipping costs. The UK ones sometimes charge more for shipping than the European ones!

I am sure some of the US based owners will chip in with their experiences.

Tony

 

[BambinoClassic]

You could always check passione500.it
The shipping estimates at checkout are usually wrong and if you email them with a pic of your cart they can provide an accurate one. Mine was a good $60 cheaper than the estimate at checkout.

 

[the hobbler]

My contact at "Axel Gerstl" (www.fiat500126.de) is Frederik Stollenwerk--I always get good service from him, and prompt response to my enquiries. Going by the communications that I have had back from him, he would seem to speak excellent English. The main supplier for classic Fiat 500 parts in America would seem to be "MrFiat", in (I believe) Atlanta. The main advantage of building up a relationship with your 'local' supplier is that if you have a problem, you can talk it through with them in your own language!

 

[Vitesse]

My contact at "Axel Gerstl" (www.fiat500126.de) is Frederik Stollenwerk--I always get good service from him, and prompt response to my enquiries. Going by the communications that I have had back from him, he would seem to speak excellent English. The main supplier for classic Fiat 500 parts in America would seem to be "MrFiat", in (I believe) Atlanta. The main advantage of building up a relationship with your 'local' supplier is that if you have a problem, you can talk it through with them in your own language!

Yeah Fred is the guy I couldn't remember!

 

[turbo500]

Thanks guys. I was already making a list of stuff on fiat500126.de , and they have been helpful so far via email. Shipping seems to be the most reasonable compared to the others.

So now for my next query

I noticed that on my dashboard, the only lights that work, are my Gen. light and headlight light.

1.The indicator light (on the left of speedo) doesn't work.
2. The high beam light (on the right of speedo) doesn't work.
3. Fuel light and Oil light don't work
( 4. License plate light doesn't work )

I've troubleshot the bulb and bulb housing with a multimeter, and they seem ok. So now I need to figure out why they aren't working. Any tips on how to troubleshoot the wiring and connections?

My light switches work, high beams, position lights, indicators etc.

:worship:

 

[IanEmery]

So now for my next query

I noticed that on my dashboard, the only lights that work, are my Gen. light and headlight light.

1.The indicator light (on the left of speedo) doesn't work.
2. The high beam light (on the right of speedo) doesn't work.
3. Fuel light and Oil light don't work
( 4. License plate light doesn't work )

I've troubleshot the bulb and bulb housing with a multimeter, and they seem ok. So now I need to figure out why they aren't working. Any tips on how to troubleshoot the wiring and connections?

My light switches work, high beams, position lights, indicators etc.

:worship:

My first point to check with any electrical problems on my Fiats, after checking the fuses of course, is to make sure every earth point is making good contact so that is where I would suggest starting

 

[turbo500]

Fuses are all untouched, but they are also not the standard 8a, but 16a and one is 25a...

So, I went through the electrical diagram, and cleaned out each connector, tried inverting cables, etc but the only thing I managed to solve is the high beam light (blue). It now turns on when high beams are on.

The indicator light on the left of the dash still doesn't work, and it's not a housing issue, because I inverted the high beam and indicator lights to see, and it's definitely a signal issue.

I used a multimeter to go through each cable/switch/lightbulb, and they all gave back a signal (using the ohm open circuit setting).

I'm trying to figure out which earth points to go through, and considering that the light switch + headlights/position lights/indicators work, I don't get how, for example the rear license plate light, doesn't work, when it's in the same circuit as the tail lights (and those work)

Here is the mess that is the fuse box, don't worry, rubber grommets are on the way:

Main lights switch:

Wiper switch and key:

Dashboard lights switch + high beam blue light:

After cleaning the switches, and light bulb connectors etc, the only thing I've succeeded in was to get the high beam (blue) light to work. I'm also facing the issue of the green light on the dash being inverted (so being on when the lights are off, and it goes off when I turn on the lights :bang. I've inverted the switch leads but it doesn't change....

 

[Bigvtwin996]

I had a lot of similar problems (I have a new loom to fit but not got round to it)
I found that the terminals being corroded did not provide the best connections, and crimping them up did not do much good, only served to make the contact area smaller...
they need careful cleaning not roughing up with sandpaper....
even though using my meter to check for continuity proved there was a circuit, a check measuring the resistance showed a high resistance over some of these connections...

I have seen on many classics the loom is left in place.....
on a 500 they are very cheap... and they are not complicated circuit wise...
If it ain't broke don't fix it but if it's worn out it will cause problems, and old looms are mostly worn out...
you would probably be ok with good electrical contact cleaner and going through everything....
this will even include the bulbs (correct name lamps-bulbs are what you grow flowers from), switches (inside contacts!!!) and the fittings... anything that could be part of the circuit...
One duff connection can cause current to flow differently.. how many times have you followed a car and seen withe the stop/tail lights flashing with the indicators or the indicators coming on with the stop lights.. the car has not been rewired.. simply a bad earth somewhere, so the electricity finds a different path...

just my opinion...

 

[turbo500]

Thanks, out of curiosity what settings and values should I be looking for with a multimeter?

I went through all the bulbs, and most of the cables, and they are showing a complete circuit, but I think I need to check the resistance.