Tuning HELP!! No throttle response / problems accelerating!

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Tuning HELP!! No throttle response / problems accelerating!

BUG-Z

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Hello all,

Right, wow its been a while since i have last logged onto this website haha... ok now i have a problem with my 1.9 JTDm Sporting.

I have had a look around a few threads and non of them really seem to help with this... so here is the test, can anyone shed some light on this matter....

Right, my story starts:
I bought my lovely black 1.9 JTDm Sporting about 1yr ago. I then did a bit of research, and decided i wanted to get my new car re-mapped. So i booked it into R-Tech (heard lots of good things about them) and they RR'd it, wrote a new map for the ECU, then RR'd it again and I was highly, highly impressed with the outcome... just short of 170bhp! :slayer:The novelty of having so much power and torque for the last 6months has only just started to die down... (don't get me wrong, i still love the fact that i have so much power in such a small car, but i for some reason now crave more... :()
I got my re-map done while my car was completely stock, as i thought to myself "nah, i'm going to keep this one standard...Just the re-map will do..."

How wrong i was, as now my car has a performance air filter and new stainless exhaust system. So after buying my re-map, i then had these two nice little mods done with the intention of going for Stage 2 re-map afterwards. ( i haven't yet gone for the stage 2 )

At this point, all was running well, my car was quick, smooth, economical and just all in all a blast to drive. I loved my car at this stage...

Ok now is where it all starts to go t*ts up... I then realised i'm wasting time and money if i go for stage 2 re-map without doing all my performance mods i want to do first. So i then did a bit more research and found out that releasing back pressure by removing the cat converter from the exhaust system apparently helps with bigger power gains...
Got this done, its now running a de-cat pipe on the stainless exhaust.

Again, all was running grand, smooth as anything, no real gains or loss in power, just a nice tone from the tailpipe when i accelerate.

Then, i drive home from work one day and come off the motorway. At the bottom of the slip road is a set of lights. I stop on red, come to pull away on green and the car all of a sudden has literally no power what so ever... nothing right up until 2000rpm... at 2000rpm the car judders and splutters then the turbo kicks in and we're off and away again like nothing happened... since that moment, my car runs fine when the turbo spools up and kicks in, but at low engine speeds i can literally put the accelerator down to the floor and it does nothing, climes VERY slowly, splutters, judders, coughs out plumes of black smoke all the way up to finally reach 2000rpm where the turbo seems to kick in and then rip my face off...
Below 2000rpm, it almost feels like its misfiring/running on 3 cylinders, hense the lack of acceleration at all. Its even threatened to cut out on me once at a junction.:bang:

Its not the head gasket going/gone because A: i presume my car wouldn't even be running would it?! and B: i have checked my coolant level and also checked oil for any tell tail signs of the head gasket leaking coolant into it... nothing, everything seems to be in full healthy order there.

I'm now left baffled as to why one day with my de-cat, exhaust, and performance air filter and my very first re-map everything was running fine, sweet as ever. Then all of a sudden, no power at low revs, no throttle response at all... and a slight hesitation to go anywhere as i move up through the revs towards the turbo range.

Can anyone shed some light on this matter, as its completely baffled me and i don't have a clue what it could be... do you think it could just need the stage 2 map... kinda like it needs to adjust to all the new mods??? Or does it sound like a mas air flow sensor problem? or something wrong with the injectors? Like i said, i haven't got a clue now...

Please please help!

Cheers,
Sean
 
Possibly EGR could be wrong, easy way to check remove it put a blanking plate on and drive it.
 
Ooo this is a new suggestion... nice one!(y)

So just explain to me what this EGR does then? As i have never heard of that before... its ok, you can call me a numpty if you like. :)

So do you think its related to the De-cat?
 
Rear RHS top of the engine under the plastic cover, it has a metal corrugated pipe attached to it & and electrical plug... I thought all MJet owners knew about the EGR! aNYHOW, ALSO TRY DISCONNECTING THE maf ON THE INLET AIR PIPE... IF IT RUNS GOOD WITH THAT DISCONNECTED IT'S PROBABLY THE maf THAT NEEDS CHANGING. tHIS IS A FAR EASIER CHECK / TEST THAN BLANKING OFF THE egr BY THE WAY... Sorry for the CaPSLocKDysLExia... :eek:
 
Rear RHS top of the engine under the plastic cover, it has a metal corrugated pipe attached to it & and electrical plug... I thought all MJet owners knew about the EGR! aNYHOW, ALSO TRY DISCONNECTING THE maf ON THE INLET AIR PIPE... IF IT RUNS GOOD WITH THAT DISCONNECTED IT'S PROBABLY THE maf THAT NEEDS CHANGING. tHIS IS A FAR EASIER CHECK / TEST THAN BLANKING OFF THE egr BY THE WAY... Sorry for the CaPSLocKDysLExia... :eek:
Cool ok, i will try both of these then, so are you saying run the car without the EGR or the MAF connected then?
 
The EGR suggestions would actually make more sense because my car is now de-catted and therefore there would be more rubbish being sent through the EGR because the Cat isn't there to catch the majoritory of it... Has anyone got a guide to taking the EGR off and blanking or cleaning?

What happens if i do blank it off? and where abouts do i need to blank it?
 
Rear RHS top of the engine under the plastic cover, it has a metal corrugated pipe attached to it & and electrical plug... I thought all MJet owners knew about the EGR! aNYHOW, ALSO TRY DISCONNECTING THE maf ON THE INLET AIR PIPE... IF IT RUNS GOOD WITH THAT DISCONNECTED IT'S PROBABLY THE maf THAT NEEDS CHANGING. tHIS IS A FAR EASIER CHECK / TEST THAN BLANKING OFF THE egr BY THE WAY... Sorry for the CaPSLocKDysLExia... :eek:

Duff MAF usually means no power at all at any revs.

Duff EGR (stuck open) means little or no power at low rpm until between 2-3000rpm when there is now enough airflow to overcome what is being bled off and drive the turbo, meaning normal performance above 3krpm.
 
Duff MAF usually means no power at all at any revs.

Duff EGR (stuck open) means little or no power at low rpm until between 2-3000rpm when there is now enough airflow to overcome what is being bled off and drive the turbo, meaning normal performance above 3krpm.

Makes sense and sounds familiar... right, tomorrow i am making a blanking plate at work in my lunch break haha! Then when i'm home, that EGR is getting cleaned up and blanked off! Stupid design really eh! lol.

Cheers guys, really appreciate all the help!

Sean
 
Cleaned it out. Loads of crap came out of the EGR and the valve was stiff/seized up like you guys said. It is running better now, just been on a test drive, but there are still a few flat spots during acceleration occasionally... Could this mean the actual EGR unit is on its way out maybe? Or should I invest in the stage 2 remap to see if it smoothes things up a bit more?
 
Try blanking it and see if the hesitation stops. If it does, it proves the valve is still sticking open. Either replace it and remove the blank or get the EGR valve 'deleted' from the ECU with the remap (most tuner's can do this now at any "stage").
 
Ok mate, ill try gaming it off then, do I need to do anything else as well as blanking? Like disconnecting the electrical wiring from it? Or do I just literally just take out the gasket and replace with a blanking plate?
Sorry for all the questions, just want to make sure I blank it off right. Cheers
 
ah right, ok mate. Ill try blanking it off then.
Should I blank it at the bottom (underside of the valve) or blank it at the corrugated pipe bit? Cheers
 
Right, here is an update.
I fixed the issue with having no power at all down low revs, the EGR was the problem, clogged up with loads of crap. Also made a blanking plate, but instead of blanking it completely, I drilled 3 smaller holes in the center of the plate so its not blanked it off completely, its just reducing how much gas can pass through.
This has sorted that problem out but I still get a slight hesitation at 2000rpm when just lightly accelerating. I assumed this was the MAF sensor playing up and so as a quick check I decided to go for a quick drive round the block with the MAF sensor disconnected and it fixed the issue, if anything I would say my car is running better without it connected. :S
so does this indicate I need a new MAF sensor??
Cheers,
Sean
 
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Right, here is an update.
I fixed the issue with having no power at all down low revs, the EGR was the problem, clogged up with loads of crap. Also made a blanking plate, but instead of blanking it completely, I drilled 3 smaller holes in the center of the plate so its not blanked it off completely, its just reducing how much gas can pass through.
This has sorted that problem out but I still get a slight hesitation at 2000rpm when just lightly accelerating. I assumed this was the MAF sensor playing up and so as a quick check I decided to go for a quick drive round the block with the MAF sensor disconnected and it fixed the issue, if anything I would say my car is running better without it connected. :S
so does this indicate I need a new MAF sensor??
Cheers,
Sean

Not necessarily as the EGR and MAF readings are closely linked and affect each other. Without reading the live data its hard to say exactly which of the two is faulty. MAF's are fairly resilient unless an induction kit is fitted, especially the oil impregnanted gauze type.

When the EGR needs to be closed, it HAS to be fully closed. This is why a blanking test plate needs to be fully covering the hole- if its not, and the EGR is still sticking open, it'll still be choking the engine with exhaust gases.
 
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