Technical Fuel light flashing but won't start (No spark)

Currently reading:
Technical Fuel light flashing but won't start (No spark)

Yeah I take your point. However, they are a young family with another baby on the way and not alot of money coming in. Hence the ask mechanic friend to do it in spare time. And also it is nearly christmas and I am feeling charitable - well I must be I am working for free.
 
Hi,

dont feel too bad mate, as SandB says you can only go on the information you are given.

Also dont forget, we are only surmising, the BSU may potentially be fine, but for me, given the information re jump starting and the diagnosis you have done so far, it is certainly looking like a strong possibility.

If its any consolation, this is not a straight forward fault, and without specialist knowledge and equipment I wouldnt expect someone to diagnose it just like that. Hang in there!! (y)

Alan
 
Thanks guys. Has anyone attempted a repair of the body ECU. Is it something I can take apart and look at or is it something that I would need load of specialist kit for.
 
Hi mate,

Its certainly worth removing it and taking the covers off. sandB posted a pic a few posts ago. Often you will be able to see a failed component on the board or melted tracks/ corrosion.

There are companies such as BBA raman that say they can repair/test them.

Alan
 
I don't suppose you know what input the BCU has on the engine ecu because after looking at the autodata diagrams I cannot work it out / can see any
 
not that I have noticed. The one I am working on is the single cam, no cam sensor 8v.
 
I don't suppose you know what input the BCU has on the engine ecu because after looking at the autodata diagrams I cannot work it out / can see any

Hi mate,

They are both connected and talk to each other via the CAN network. One of the main functions is the CODE system. The BCU reads the code in the keys chip, authorises it and then sends this to the ECU thus allowing the engine to start. Thats just one example.

Also in your case, the signal from the fuel level sensor comes direct the the BCU before being sent to the dash unit.

Just on a side note, I noticed that you said The engine bay fuse box was particularly dirty. Have you tried removing it and checking the multi-plugs below it for corroded pins etc? Some vital connections go through this.

Alan
 
Hi mate,

They are both connected and talk to each other via the CAN network. One of the main functions is the CODE system. The BCU reads the code in the keys chip, authorises it and then sends this to the ECU thus allowing the engine to start. Thats just one example.

Also in your case, the signal from the fuel level sensor comes direct the the BCU before being sent to the dash unit.

Just on a side note, I noticed that you said The engine bay fuse box was particularly dirty. Have you tried removing it and checking the multi-plugs below it for corroded pins etc? Some vital connections go through this.

Alan

Yes I have removed the multi plugs and cleaned them. Had all fuses out and cleaned them. Cleaned all the earths. And all the lives.
 
I will take the BCU out tomorrow after I re inspect all the wires as I have not had a look underneath. What would make the alternator light come on and go out again, BCU I am guessing.
 
Hi mate,

Yeah missed that bit of info re the battery light in your previous post. However yes you are correct, the BCU receives the D+ signal direct from the alternator. When it receives this signal, it turns the charging system warning light on the dash out. In your case, as the engine wont start, the alternator cant be producing voltage and therefore the BCU shouldn't be switching the light out.

Its worth noting that this D+ signal also travels via the connector multi-plugs underneath the engine bay fuse box on route to the BCU

Alan
 
Hi mate,

Yeah missed that bit of info re the battery light in your previous post. However yes you are correct, the BCU receives the D+ signal direct from the alternator. When it receives this signal, it turns the charging system warning light on the dash out. In your case, as the engine wont start, the alternator cant be producing voltage and therefore the BCU shouldn't be switching the light out.

Its worth noting that this D+ signal also travels via the connector multi-plugs underneath the engine bay fuse box on route to the BCU

Alan

I agree about the battery light. I had a good look at the cables going to the BCU and the connections to the BCU and all were fine.

I removed the BCU and took it out of its casing and inspected it. To the naked eye I could not see any signs of water damage, burns marks, dry joints or any other cause of failure. :bang:. I am going to order a full set off a popular auction site that came off a running vehicle as this is less money than even getting the BCU tested.
 
Curl up in a ball on the floor and cry like a little girl.

I am open to suggestions and checks to be carried out.

Before I spend any more of this ladies money what course of action do you think I should take.
 
Last edited:
Curl up in a ball on the floor and cry like a little girl.

I am open to suggestions and checks to be carried out.

:D


not so easy to answer that one is it
im just offering worst case scenario
i dont even know how old this car is?
i think i read it had no cam sensor so its what x reg?




Before I spend any more of this ladies money what course of action do you think I should take. ........... see above













/
 
Last edited:
Yes its w reg / 2000.

is it worth spending on then?
remember you will need the correct bits (bsi etc) to match the spec of this car and if buying off internet sites its full of liers cheats and scroats put there,lad i know bought a radiator recently as all complete off a damaged car( please make sure you understand this when bidding),when it came it had a hole in it,seller said well i told you it was accident damaged:eek:
 
is it worth spending on then?
remember you will need the correct bits (bsi etc) to match the spec of this car and if buying off internet sites its full of liers cheats and scroats put there,lad i know bought a radiator recently as all complete off a damaged car( please make sure you understand this when bidding),when it came it had a hole in it,seller said well i told you it was accident damaged:eek:

Yeah I take you point however the lady cannot afford another car (see older posts)and her hubbie is away with work until xmas. She is heavily pregnant and needs the car. She is not paying for the labour otherwise your right it would be in the scrap yard now because I have literally spent an age on it. Knowing what I know now I would have bought her another car just so I could lay on the sofa and not have to fix it.:)

The set on Ebay says its from a working vehicle so here goes. Take a look see what you think.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231086294258?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
 
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Yeah I take you point however the lady cannot afford another car (see older posts)and her hubbie is away with work until xmas. She is heavily pregnant and needs the car. She is not paying for the labour otherwise your right it would be in the scrap yard now because I have literally spent an age on it. Knowing what I know now I would have bought her another car just so I could lay on the sofa and not have to fix it.:)

The set on Ebay says its from a working vehicle so here goes. Take a look see what you think.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231086294258?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

i think m3 needs cam sensor and you wont have one
you also need to ascertain spec of car to go with bsi
ie
does your car have electric windows,central locking
and or
abs
 
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Not sure on both, however I have the old ecu if front of me(original one off the car) and it definitely says 59F. M3
 
Back
Top