Technical Front suspension refresh

[Uncle Beee]

I fitted Monro shock on our 2WD and am very pleased still with the smooth ride. Good choice!

Used them decades ago on a modified Mk 1 Fiesta, (probably when Monroe were at the top of their game) and they were great. If I’m honest these were the cheapest branded ones I could find and at £24 I am not going to complain! I think I’ve been able to do the front pair for just on £100 a corner. Took time but I think that’s about half the price of going to the usual big guys and getting it next day

 

[DaveMcT]

Magneti Marelli shocks from Shop 4 Parts are about £50 each. Supplex springs are £30. Original Birth Top mounts are £20. You'll then need high tensile bolts as the originals will be rusted. Coat them end to end in anti-seize to reduce corrosion. I also added half nuts to be sure they won't shake loose.

They are not the cheapest but it's good kit. My only gripe is the top mount. All of mine have been perfectly good except the bearing were toast. You can't simply buy new bearings which must be £5 each or less.

 

[Uncle Beee]

Magneti Marelli shocks from Shop 4 Parts are about £50 each. Supplex springs are £30. Original Birth Top mounts are £20. You'll then need high tensile bolts as the originals will be rusted. Coat them end to end in anti-seize to reduce corrosion. I also added half nuts to be sure they won't shake loose.

They are not the cheapest but it's good kit. My only gripe is the top mount. All of mine have been perfectly good except the bearing were toast. You can't simply buy new bearings which must be £5 each or less.

Yes, I bought all new ancillaries including top mounts, plates, pinch bolts and nuts as i figured in my ownership i was only likely to pull it all apart once and I knew if I cut a corner, it would only bite me when i took it apart on the drive . My gripe was getting new stepped “spacer”/retaining nuts which I ordered and picked up from the local fiat dealer, only to find they would only sell them as a bag of 10 as they had had to get them as a special order Not a disaster as the bag of 10 only ended up being a few pence more than ordering them as a pair from Partsworld-UK by the time I’d added on postage So there will be 8 going on eBay shortly

 

[irc]

You can't simply buy new bearings which must be £5 each or less.

You can.... SKF sell 2 types, one for the 100hp and one for all other 169 Pandas. Same bearings also fit various 500s, so handy for me to have on the shelf. Probably less so for others though.
Not looked for other brands, and not near my parts stash at the moment so can't check part numbers.
But they aren't as cheap as you would expect.

Edit: SKF VKD 35030 is one type. Just found the label in my toolbox!

 

[Uncle Beee]

You can.... SKF sell 2 types, one for the 100hp and one for all other 169 Pandas. Same bearings also fit various 500s, so handy for me to have on the shelf. Probably less so for others though.
Not looked for other brands, and not near my parts stash at the moment so can't check part numbers.
But they aren't as cheap as you would expect.

Edit: SKF VKD 35030 is one type. Just found the label in my toolbox!

Thats good to know and SKF are quality bearings

 

[koalar]

They came as a complete kit and don't lock together at all. I’ve ordered another set from a different supplier to see if they are different

just shows

you do every right, order as a set, and still frustratingly things aren't straightforward

i feel your pain but at least its sorted now

 

[Uncle Beee]

just shows

you do every right, order as a set, and still frustratingly things aren't straightforward

i feel your pain but at least its sorted now

Thanks Koalar… well sort of!

I really should know better and not believe half of what previous owners say they “have done”!

Struts fully built up, got everything ready this morning, nearside wheel off and the drop link might have been removed, but by the look of it, several times! Not a hope in hell of getting it off and back on as the threaded shaft on the top mount has been totally rounded out Tried correct key, then tried knocking in a torx bit, no chance. Did a panicked call to local Fiat dealers, yes they have them but £78.60 each So wheels back on and new links ordered online £10 each… possibly a job for the Easter weekend if they turn up in time At least I’ve been able to give all the other bushes a through check and all look ok for now

You know what they say, if you fail to plan, you plan to fail!

 

[DaveMcT]

Good call. £20 a pair delivered direct from SKF.

SKF VKD 35030 T suspension cup bearing for ABARTH CITROËN DAIHATSU 7316572413784 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for SKF VKD 35030 T suspension cup bearing for ABARTH CITROËN DAIHATSU at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

Febi top mounts are around £20 each

Unless they are damaged, there is no need to replace the stepped nuts. The loads are taken by the locknuts at the top of the strut.

 

[Uncle Beee]

A very cautionary tale of not fixing a car as today didn't go to plan with the front suspension swap.
All the nuts and bolts had been soaked in penetrating oil and came free easily, except the droplinks which needed a nut splitter to remove, but i was expecting that. The problem came when removing the pinch bolts. Both of the nuts loose after a quick touch with the torque wrench and both bolts were turning if a little tight. A little tap on the top one and it partly came out. A little tap on the bottom one and it also started to move, but the bottom one now refused to budge, wouldn’t go back in or come out and it looked like; as it rotated with the torque wrench it was bent (I knew the strut had been out before so assumed that was the case).
So here is where i made the wrong decision assuming the bend was what was stopping it coming out i cut the threaded end off and tried to drift it out… nothing happening. Big hammer and proper sized drift and not a thing. So put the torque wrench back on the bolt and instead of it turning; the head of the bolt sheered off! So i now have the none threaded part of the bolt stuck in the hub Fortunately i was able to get the shock in as the sheared end is also basically flush and drop link is correctly in place, but only one pinch bolt is there and noting is getting the bottom one out. And the added bonus it would seem is that the flexible brake hose was so brittle in moving it, it’s cracked. So I’m going to have to wait until after Easter and see if i can get it transported to a garage and see if the hub is salvageable. What started as a leaking shock and a corroded spring swap (which I've done many times on other cars I’ve owned) has ended up a bit of a disaster, so I’ve left the other side as if one side has seized there’s a good chance the other one could have. Hopefully i can move the car sufficiently that a recovery truck will be able to get to it without causing more damage

 

[koalar]

A very cautionary tale of not fixing a car as today didn't go to plan with the front suspension swap.
All the nuts and bolts had been soaked in penetrating oil and came free easily, except the droplinks which needed a nut splitter to remove, but i was expecting that. The problem came when removing the pinch bolts. Both of the nuts loose after a quick touch with the torque wrench and both bolts were turning if a little tight. A little tap on the top one and it partly came out. A little tap on the bottom one and it also started to move, but the bottom one now refused to budge, wouldn’t go back in or come out and it looked like; as it rotated with the torque wrench it was bent (I knew the strut had been out before so assumed that was the case).
So here is where i made the wrong decision assuming the bend was what was stopping it coming out i cut the threaded end off and tried to drift it out… nothing happening. Big hammer and proper sized drift and not a thing. So put the torque wrench back on the bolt and instead of it turning; the head of the bolt sheered off! So i now have the none threaded part of the bolt stuck in the hub Fortunately i was able to get the shock in as the sheared end is also basically flush and drop link is correctly in place, but only one pinch bolt is there and noting is getting the bottom one out. And the added bonus it would seem is that the flexible brake hose was so brittle in moving it, it’s cracked. So I’m going to have to wait until after Easter and see if i can get it transported to a garage and see if the hub is salvageable. What started as a leaking shock and a corroded spring swap (which I've done many times on other cars I’ve owned) has ended up a bit of a disaster, so I’ve left the other side as if one side has seized there’s a good chance the other one could have. Hopefully i can move the car sufficiently that a recovery truck will be able to get to it without causing more damage

have you got a vice or bearing pusher, should push out. You might need to pack the slot if stupid force is needed

they do grow together with corrosion if they been in there for 10 years or so. I have had to fight a few out with a 5ib club hammer.

 

[Uncle Beee]

have you got a vice or bearing pusher, should push out. You might need to pack the slot if stupid force is needed

they do grow together with corrosion if they been in there for 10 years or so. I have had to fight a few out with a 5ib club hammer.

I’ve a vice and was thinking of taking the hub off so I wasn’t going to distort the new shock. I did use a lump hammer and drift the effort of which pretty much destroyed the old shocker . Unfortunately I’ve health problems which limit the days I’m able to do things. Yesterday was a good day from that perspective but they are few and far between, hence I may get it moved to a garage

 

[koalar]

when you are up to it

you should be able to rig up a metal vice and socket as a spacer and put around 1 ton of pressure on the end

similar to this and squeeze the bolt out

 

[Uncle Beee]

Thanks Koalar, I'll see how i feel next week. We have to have it back on the road in May as we are picking up a trailer tent So i've a bit of time

 

[DaveMcT]

Clamp the brake hose, cut it and remove the brake and the disc Then, remove the drive shaft hub-centre nut (Shop 4 Parts sell replacements)
If the CV joint is jammed in, remove the hub compete with drive shaft. Gearbox will need to be drained of oil but at least you can change the oil seal while it's open.

Check with seller if this will fit your car.

FITS FIAT DRIVESHAFT NUT CV JOINT HUB NUT | eBay

We prohibit the audio or video recording of on-site professional or technical Services, or training and consultancy without the prior written consent. Technical specifications are approximations unless specifically stated otherwise.

www.ebay.co.uk

The steel brake pipe flare nut will be seized. The zinc plating beneath the plastic sheath froths up over time and jams the flare nut. Warm the nut with a gas lighter. You need enough heat to soften the plastic coating nothing more. Alternatively accept the steel pipe is toast and replace. This can be a braided line with appropriate end fittings. There is no need to fight a new steel line into place.

You can now extract the complete hub and use a press to remove the problem bolt.

 

[Uncle Beee]

Just wanted to say thanks for all the advice, i have tried a few different options but in the end i gave in mid week and had the RAC trailer it to a mechanic I’ve know for many years. He supports club racers and so i figured he’d be very familiar with mangled suspension! He sorted out the drivers side and allowed me to swap the passenger side while it was on the ramps (what a gent). Needless to say the passenger side came apart perfectly and was done in 20 minutes The drivers side pinch bolt needed lots of heat (more than the plumbers torch that i had), a sod off amount of effort with a bearing press and a piece of steel bar. We also replaced both the front flexi hoses (the drivers side had cracked after pulling away from the shock). I was surprised that whilst they were initially reluctant to move, they did come away cleanly and new ones fitted straight back on . Once the brakes were bled and the alignment was checked i took it for a test drive and…. the ABS light came on No surprise it was the drivers side sensor given all that we had done, though i suspect on closer examination that it was where the axel had been strapped down on the trailer. What a pig that was to remove! In the end i left it to the professional to once again remove something bit by bit!

So the MOT advisory has now been sorted. Certainly the drive back home hinted at how worn the front set up had become and I’m looking forwards to a good drive to test it out over the weekend

Now onto the next jobs on the list

 

[Yolanda]

I would always go down the heat rout first (where you can without setting fire to brake hoses and bushings) But glad you've got it sorted.

 

[Yolanda]

New bump stops tuned up today and with the expected squeeze and push they all locked together as they should. First strut built up will build up the second and then they can wait for the next good weather day when I'm not at work
Thanks for all the advice

I'm thinking of refreshing my front suspensin, but rather than buying individual parts I might just go for the complete assembly's and have done with it.
It's then a case of who can supply the the parts at a reasonable cost.

 

[Uncle Beee]

I'm thinking of refreshing my front suspensin, but rather than buying individual parts I might just go for the complete assembly's and have done with it.
It's then a case of who can supply the the parts at a reasonable cost.

When AutoDoc has their regular 30% reduction it’s worth it if there’s no rush

 

[DaveMcT]

I'm thinking of refreshing my front suspensin, but rather than buying individual parts I might just go for the complete assembly's and have done with it.
It's then a case of who can supply the the parts at a reasonable cost.

I don't think you can buy a fully assembled strut. There's more profit in selling the individual parts.

Costs quickly add up

Shock strut - from £50
Spring - from £40
Spring seat (usually very rusty) about £30 you will need to go on EPER and find the Fiat part number
Top bearing and rubber bush about £20 though you can get the bare bearing with the part number.
High tensile M10 bolts for the bottom clamp and an M8 pinch bolt while you are there. About £4 each.​

 

[Yolanda]

Thank you. Without a detailed diagram of of the front strut, I think I'm going to need.
Top mounts x2 (are the bearings integral)
Bump stop & gaitor x2 ( N/S has broken up )
Spring seats I'm not sure about as I can't see them on any diagram when googled or where they fit.
M10 bolts x4
If anyone has or can direct me to a detailed diagram I would be most grateful.