So the dipstick tube doesnt look like an issue but the driveshaft will never let the alternator through....
How much of the car will need to dismante? And where do i start?
How much of the car will need to dismante? And where do i start?
Technical flippin alternator
- Thread starter hastingsmum
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Technical flippin alternator
OP
OP
scrap that, its out now, now to see if the "new" one will fit through...
then of course the interesting task of seeing when/where i can find the missing fittings,
all this before mot retest on weds morning
then of course the interesting task of seeing when/where i can find the missing fittings,
all this before mot retest on weds morning
OP
OP
And it DOESN'T fit.
I know I said the other one didn't and then it did, but then gravity was on my side, this is heavy and just will not fit. It's slightly bigger than the old one.
Advise please
I know I said the other one didn't and then it did, but then gravity was on my side, this is heavy and just will not fit. It's slightly bigger than the old one.
Advise please
Sorry to hear that. What's the make and part number for the old and new alternators?
Is it that it will not fit past the driveshaft, or that it will not fit in its mounting position?
eLearn suggests it comes out from above, once the air filter and oil vapour separator are removed. Have you tried up instead of down?
eLearn suggests it comes out from above, once the air filter and oil vapour separator are removed. Have you tried up instead of down?
OP
OP
It won't fit past driveshaft, it's got same almost dimensions so should (fingers crossed) fit in position.
Air filter and oil vapour separator out
OP
OP
Total nightmare trying the other way.
Right now I'm leaning towards getting another alternator same as the old one, coz now that I know where exactly it goes it fits back in easily enough (past the driveshaft I mean, not the whole way back up I'm not insane and refitting it, lol) there are just too many obstructions from the battery side.
So I need to get it to the MOT testing station by weds.
If I get the battery charged up I should be ok?
When the belt snapped my battery had power for days after, would it make it you think?
JamesAtthews
New member
Hi
I've been where you are now, but with -10 degrees weather too (although not far off now).
My new alternator was, like yours, slightly larger than the original one, so know where you're coming from. The way that I did it was to jack the engine up via the rear of the sump, which allows it the engine to move forwards enough just to allow the alternator to be wiggled into place for you.
I was expecting to take the drive shaft off, but never needed to. If you do this and still need a little bit of extra room, you could undo the top engine stabilizer mount, which is located on the top left of the engine when looking from the front. It is sat below the diesel filter on my car, on the inside of the wing. This is easy enough to undo and swing out of the way to give you the extra couple of mm of room.
Best of luck, now go and do it and come in feeling happy!!
Sorry, I forgot to add that I doubt that it would pass the MOT due to the lack of power steering etc due to the lack of the auxiliary belt, and the warnings that flash up on the dashboard, e.g. alternator fault, contact garage, and after not very long at all due to the lack of charge, abs (anti lock brakes) and ebd (electronic brake distribution) fault. My fully charged, 3 month old battery didn't go for long without an alternator, before giving these 2 warnings. I think these trigger as soon as the charge falls below 13.5V, as the alternator should be kicking out 14V +.
Cheers
James
I've been where you are now, but with -10 degrees weather too (although not far off now).
My new alternator was, like yours, slightly larger than the original one, so know where you're coming from. The way that I did it was to jack the engine up via the rear of the sump, which allows it the engine to move forwards enough just to allow the alternator to be wiggled into place for you.
I was expecting to take the drive shaft off, but never needed to. If you do this and still need a little bit of extra room, you could undo the top engine stabilizer mount, which is located on the top left of the engine when looking from the front. It is sat below the diesel filter on my car, on the inside of the wing. This is easy enough to undo and swing out of the way to give you the extra couple of mm of room.
Best of luck, now go and do it and come in feeling happy!!
Sorry, I forgot to add that I doubt that it would pass the MOT due to the lack of power steering etc due to the lack of the auxiliary belt, and the warnings that flash up on the dashboard, e.g. alternator fault, contact garage, and after not very long at all due to the lack of charge, abs (anti lock brakes) and ebd (electronic brake distribution) fault. My fully charged, 3 month old battery didn't go for long without an alternator, before giving these 2 warnings. I think these trigger as soon as the charge falls below 13.5V, as the alternator should be kicking out 14V +.
Cheers
James
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OP
OP
Just a retest within 10 days so only checking the things it failed on???
OP
OP
OP
OP
its this gap i can't get it past
JamesAtthews
New member
its this gap i can't get it past
Hi that looks familiar! Have you tried to move the engine, as when it moves forwards the driveshaft moves with it opening the gap up. From my experience with retests, and I've had probably 10 retests out of 25 tests, they have a cursory glance at other things, as it is based on the car at the time. Some testers are also more particular than others.
I hope that this helps.
OP
OP
will try and update tomorrow. MOT is with JustMots fairly easygoing but you never know. It's not like they can miss the light on
OP
OP
How much larger was your new one, just marginally? or visibly?
I'm starting to panic a bit about this whole thing now...
What's the make and part number for the old and new alternators?
OP
OP
ALTERNATOR copied from eper My original one is the 90A one the replacement is the 100 one
46765838 100 A M6
46774430 90 A M6
Are they both the same make?
OP
OP
Bugger. You've already answered my question. I know some of the cheapo Chinese ones have bulkier casings that cause problems. I know it won't help you right now, but posting the two Denso part numbers may help someone else avoid the same pain in future.
Just for the record, I thought it was the Bosch ones that were supposed to have the problems with cracked casings, not the Denso. Has yours cracked?
Just for the record, I thought it was the Bosch ones that were supposed to have the problems with cracked casings, not the Denso. Has yours cracked?
OP
OP
It looks a lot bigger in the pic it's not THAT much bigger but got a sticky out bit underneath...
