General fixing the timing on Fiat stilo 1.8 16v
- Thread starter kokkolin
- Start date
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General fixing the timing on Fiat stilo 1.8 16v
You'll need a TDC gauge and some cam locks. With no.1 cylinder at TDC, fit the cams using the cam-locks and Robert is your mother's brother.
The flywheel mark can get you pretty close to TDC, if you want to do without the gauge. The "screwdriver in the plug hole" method can work but be prepared to have to tweak it after you've assembled it (i.e. remove the belt and try again).
I have no idea how you would time the camshafts without tools. You'll need cam-locks, something like these;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Pun...975602&hash=item3ad38b89a4:g:Id8AAOxygo9Q8I9Z
>> although these look plastic. You want metal ones ideally.
You just have to drop the cams into position so that the locks fit over the lobes. From memory the inlet fits onto no. 2 cylinder and the exhaust onto no. 3 cylinder but the locks should state where they go (and will be marked "I" and "E").
Ralf S.
The flywheel mark can get you pretty close to TDC, if you want to do without the gauge. The "screwdriver in the plug hole" method can work but be prepared to have to tweak it after you've assembled it (i.e. remove the belt and try again).
I have no idea how you would time the camshafts without tools. You'll need cam-locks, something like these;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Pun...975602&hash=item3ad38b89a4:g:Id8AAOxygo9Q8I9Z
>> although these look plastic. You want metal ones ideally.
You just have to drop the cams into position so that the locks fit over the lobes. From memory the inlet fits onto no. 2 cylinder and the exhaust onto no. 3 cylinder but the locks should state where they go (and will be marked "I" and "E").
Ralf S.
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It looks so easy with the engine on a stand.. 
It reminds me... get the longest 15mm spanner you can.. the aux-belt tensioner needs a lot of leverage.
Ralf S.
It reminds me... get the longest 15mm spanner you can.. the aux-belt tensioner needs a lot of leverage.
Ralf S.
Just be careful you don't bend the metal timing ring
inside the alloy cam wheel, if you have to remove
the exhaust cam wheel. It will chew the timing sensor
and engine won't run.
inside the alloy cam wheel, if you have to remove
the exhaust cam wheel. It will chew the timing sensor
and engine won't run.
astacheva
Member
Exactly as sixpotman said. Take care with the exhaust cam pulley because the camshaft sensor is underneath it and if the thin metal inside of the pulley bents you will have to straighten it.
could you tell me how it looks like?
could you tell me where can I find the torque values for all the nuts and boltsIt looks so easy with the engine on a stand..
It reminds me... get the longest 15mm spanner you can.. the aux-belt tensioner needs a lot of leverage.
Ralf S.
)
astacheva
Member
could you tell me where can I find the torque values for all the nuts and bolts
Crankshaft pulley bolts
21-26 Nm 15-19 lb.ft
Timing belt tensioner nut
24-29 Nm 18-21 lb.ft
Balance belt nut
12 Nm 9 lb.ft
Inlet camshaft pulley bolts
12 Nm 9 lb.ft
Exhaust camshaft pulley bolt
100-124 Nm 74-91 lb.ft
Camshaft bearing cap bolts
13-16 Nm 10-12 lb.ft
Valve cover and timing belt cover bolts
9 Nm 7 lb.ft
Water pump bolts
17-21 Nm 13-15 lb.ft
Variator solenoid bolts
14-20 Nm 10-15 lb.ft
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thank you!
multipete
Established member
It a thin metal ring with a reference piece missing,it won't come off, it's part of the pulley.it tells the sensor what position the cam shaft is.
astacheva
Member
Exactly. Don't bend it. I accidentally bent mine and didn't notice. Broke my camshaft sensor within days and the car won't start, lucky was home when it happened. Around 70 for a new sensor. So pay close attention to it when unbolting the exhaust sprocket.
I created a tool with an old belt and a wood stick to do so.
this is the ring I should be taking care of?
astacheva
Member
Exactly
