first post so best do introductions first:
Been on this site a few times and got some pretty decent reference material for fixing my girlfriends stilo (1.6 16V 52 reg), Decided to register as I'm complete out of ideas for my current problem.
The EPAS has finally given it up the other day, it had been going on and off for the last month (just pulled over, turn off and turn back on again and the fault disappeared).
I've had a good search of this forum and googled every concivable term that could bring up topics on this problem and I've exhausted all of them.
One of the main things i read is that the EPAS has its own management unit. If the charge on the alternator is not to the right levels the MU spits the dummy and warning light comes up.
I've also read to check the D4 connector.
I've just replaced the battery (just in case its pulling the alternator charge voltage down; being old) and checked the D4 connector. Battery voltage is 12.5V and D4 connector looks good, all pins nice a clean.
Fired her up and EPAS fault light still on, both when on and when engine running.
Check the charge voltage on the battery: 13.98V (call it 14V), so not exactly lacking!
disconnected the battery and left it for about 1/2 hour and reconnected. Fault light still on.
Given that the alternator voltage is charging the battery at 14V, from my experience I'd say that was a working alternator (unless theres a higher voltage tapping for the EPAS unit).
I'm seriuosly stumped on what else I can check without amditting defeat and forking out the stupidly overpriced fee for fitting a new EPAS unit. (£700 odd Iv'e seen!)
Any ideas?
Also: major Gripe: why the hell would you have an EPAS unit that just decides to cut out, without notification, when your driving along!! Least with a hydraulic PAS pump the trail/puddle of ATF gives the game away!
Been on this site a few times and got some pretty decent reference material for fixing my girlfriends stilo (1.6 16V 52 reg), Decided to register as I'm complete out of ideas for my current problem.
The EPAS has finally given it up the other day, it had been going on and off for the last month (just pulled over, turn off and turn back on again and the fault disappeared).
I've had a good search of this forum and googled every concivable term that could bring up topics on this problem and I've exhausted all of them.
One of the main things i read is that the EPAS has its own management unit. If the charge on the alternator is not to the right levels the MU spits the dummy and warning light comes up.
I've also read to check the D4 connector.
I've just replaced the battery (just in case its pulling the alternator charge voltage down; being old) and checked the D4 connector. Battery voltage is 12.5V and D4 connector looks good, all pins nice a clean.
Fired her up and EPAS fault light still on, both when on and when engine running.
Check the charge voltage on the battery: 13.98V (call it 14V), so not exactly lacking!
disconnected the battery and left it for about 1/2 hour and reconnected. Fault light still on.
Given that the alternator voltage is charging the battery at 14V, from my experience I'd say that was a working alternator (unless theres a higher voltage tapping for the EPAS unit).
I'm seriuosly stumped on what else I can check without amditting defeat and forking out the stupidly overpriced fee for fitting a new EPAS unit. (£700 odd Iv'e seen!)
Any ideas?
Also: major Gripe: why the hell would you have an EPAS unit that just decides to cut out, without notification, when your driving along!! Least with a hydraulic PAS pump the trail/puddle of ATF gives the game away!