15W40 Semi-synthetic oil will be good. Most petrol engines of that age used 10W40, but for a tractor engine, I can see they might have specc'd a slightly heavier cold weight to deal with the extra knock when the engine is cold.
Semi- or full synthetic doesn't make any difference... although full synthetics tend to be newer, so lighter grade (e.g. 5W30), as more recently car makers have been building engines to use thinner oils, in order to meet tightening fuel economy standards. If you found a fully synthetic 15W40 (not sure they exist) then the engine wouldn't complain.
The main thing to look for on the packaging/in the manual is the API spec' which is a S/... followed by a letter, such as G, H I... etc. The engine will want something like API S/G or S/H which was cutting edge back in 1988 or something. Any oil you buy will be several increments higher.. semi synthetic is around S/L and fully synthetic is S/N... so it's virtually impossible to buy oil that is less spec' than your engine needs.
The other standards (ACEA) you might see are, as above, almost a given. I think your semi-synthetic will be B4/C4... the engine probably only needs C3.. so "more or less any oil" will do the job. The bigger numbers means more ingredients.. mostly detergents.. so these oils can go longer and still absorb carbon (soot) compared to the mineral oils. If you do 10,000 miles a year, I would change the oil again then. otherwise once a year.
Since it's been sitting a while, if it was mine, I'd use an engine flush in there before you drain the oil. Drop it in, run the engine around for 100 miles or so, taking it reasonably easy and then drain the oil. The flush collects extra gum and varnish.. and your beast has had old oil it for a while, so may benefit.
The French looking dipstick doodah is probably also the filler neck. Does the piece that the dipstick drops through unscrew in its own right?
Ralf S.