Technical Ducato X250 immobiliser location

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Technical Ducato X250 immobiliser location

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Dec 23, 2023
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Scunthorpe
Hi, I have the dreaded lock symbol on my dash, engine turns over but not start, I had a mate who programs auto radar type system come with his OBD scanner and it has a mini crypto fault, he could clear it but it came back as soon as the key was turned so I need to send off ECU, Keys and immobiliser for fixing, where is it I have looked at he 2 suggested locations - behind dash fuse panel and behind steering column, only look in cab, so where is it please

Nigel
 
Hi

Below I have pasted the description of the Fiat immobiliser from eLearn. These vehicles don't have a separate immobiliser module, its function is performed by the Body Control Module plus the ECU. The Body Control Module ("Computer") M001 is situated immediately behind the under-dashboard fuse module, and directly joins to it via a multiway connector. You can see the BCM's bottom edge, that's where the OBD socket is. The Engine Control Unit (ECU) M010 is in the engine compartment high up on the UK passenger side.

The Body Computer M001 receives a direct battery power supply at pin 1 (protected by fuse F38 of B002) and 18 of the coupling with the junction unit under the dashboard B002; it also receives an ignition-controlled power supply (INT) at pin 9 of the same coupling.

The direct battery power supply is protected upstream by fuse F71 (CPL1) of the B099 maxifuse control unit on the battery (connector D). On the Minibus versions (2.3 JTD / 3.0 JTD) the above power supply is protected by fuse F73 (CPL1) of the maxifuse box on the battery B099 (connector D).

The M001 Body Computer is also connected to the C022 central dashboard earth via pins 10 and 19 of connector B and via pin 20 of the junction with the B002 junction unit under the dashboard (output from pin 10 of connector B of the B002 junction unit).

The aerial for the CODE P091 is connected to pins 7 and 8 of connector A of the Body Computer M001.


The key recognition dialogue and the exchange of codes between the Body Computer M001 and the engine management control unit M010 takes place via the C-CAN, through pins 48 and 49 of connector A of the Body Computer M001 and pins 83 and 84 of connector B of the engine management control unit M010 on the 2.3 JTD version (pins B4 and A4 of connector B of M010 on the 2.2 JTD version).

See E1050 CAN CONNECTION LINES

The Body Computer M001 is connected, via the B-CAN line, from pins 5 and 6 of connector B, to the instrument panel E050 (pins 5 and 6) to manage the "vehicle protection system - CODE failure" warning light.
 
Hi, I have the dreaded lock symbol on my dash, engine turns over but not start, I had a mate who programs auto radar type system come with his OBD scanner and it has a mini crypto fault, he could clear it but it came back as soon as the key was turned so I need to send off ECU, Keys and immobiliser for fixing, where is it I have looked at he 2 suggested locations - behind dash fuse panel and behind steering column, only look in cab, so where is it please

Nigel
You have my sympathy, I have currently got the same problem.
 
Just a brief update, I had an Auto locksmith out and he couldn't fix it although he did say it is recognising the keys so not a key fault, I finally found and got a diagnostic guy to come round last night what with Christmas and New year, he couldn't clear fault and his Scanner couldn't connect to immobilser/ECU other than seeing it, so I decided to use the service provided by Autotronics (http://www.autotronics.co.uk) and send off my ECU and BCM plus keys to have them checked and repaired, as per Anthony489's post the immobiliser is not a separate module, so this has meant removing a fair chunk of the dash above and around the fuse box, there is a metal cage preventing access to the fixings to the fuse box and BCM (one piece btw) that we had drill out the shear head bolts (a bolt where the head shears off when tightened) holding it in place to gain access, the ECU is under the bonnet behind the fuse box and is easy to get to compared to the BCM (harder to get fuse cover off when I was checking fuses under there) all this was performed by the diagnostic Guy with me ably assisting, parts were boxed up and labels printed off as per Autotronics sales page instructions (approx £310) and these have now been collected by DHL with a 3 working day turn around so hopefully they will be back and fitted by next weekend.
Trying to work out why, I can only assume it is because my drive (thankfully it is at home) is on a downward incline and I usually park it facing down but as it was a bit awkward reversing out into the road with traffic I started parking facing up and this combined with torrential rain storm/hurricane and the small scuttle drain hole above the ECU/fuse box has caused the problems and I shall be looking at creating some kind of funnel/drain once fixed.
Fingers crossed it comes back fixed
 
Just a brief update, I had an Auto locksmith out and he couldn't fix it although he did say it is recognising the keys so not a key fault, I finally found and got a diagnostic guy to come round last night what with Christmas and New year, he couldn't clear fault and his Scanner couldn't connect to immobilser/ECU other than seeing it, so I decided to use the service provided by Autotronics (http://www.autotronics.co.uk) and send off my ECU and BCM plus keys to have them checked and repaired, as per Anthony489's post the immobiliser is not a separate module, so this has meant removing a fair chunk of the dash above and around the fuse box, there is a metal cage preventing access to the fixings to the fuse box and BCM (one piece btw) that we had drill out the shear head bolts (a bolt where the head shears off when tightened) holding it in place to gain access, the ECU is under the bonnet behind the fuse box and is easy to get to compared to the BCM (harder to get fuse cover off when I was checking fuses under there) all this was performed by the diagnostic Guy with me ably assisting, parts were boxed up and labels printed off as per Autotronics sales page instructions (approx £310) and these have now been collected by DHL with a 3 working day turn around so hopefully they will be back and fitted by next weekend.
Trying to work out why, I can only assume it is because my drive (thankfully it is at home) is on a downward incline and I usually park it facing down but as it was a bit awkward reversing out into the road with traffic I started parking facing up and this combined with torrential rain storm/hurricane and the small scuttle drain hole above the ECU/fuse box has caused the problems and I shall be looking at creating some kind of funnel/drain once fixed.
Fingers crossed it comes back fixed
Really appreciate the update, very helpful. I definitely agree about the scuttle drain hole; poor design. My van is always parked slightly up hill, but we recently drove through loads of water, due to the torrential rain so water damage was my first concern. Hopefully yours will come back fixed and mine will be following shortly. Luckily for me, I think somebody had already been into my fuse box, as there is no cage and it is secured with two old bolts. Please let us know how it goes👍👍
 
Update - nearly fixed, awaiting part, all the bits came back from Autotronics with a clean bill of health, annoyingly in one way, so my diagnostics man came back to refit the bits and try to solve the puzzle started checking wiring harnesses and fuse boxes, tracing wiring etc. having checked all the fuses in the under bonnet one again he noticed that without fuses in he was getting a reading on the multi meter, so he set to and took the fuse box out and and thats when the water came out, on dismantling the box it was suffering from the onset of corrosion, so a new fuse box is on its way, £178 off Ebay, chuffing hurricanes and a stupid hole in the scuttle, we are both happy now that he has found the fault and he is coming back to fit in a couple days when it arrives
 
Update - nearly fixed, awaiting part, all the bits came back from Autotronics with a clean bill of health, annoyingly in one way, so my diagnostics man came back to refit the bits and try to solve the puzzle started checking wiring harnesses and fuse boxes, tracing wiring etc. having checked all the fuses in the under bonnet one again he noticed that without fuses in he was getting a reading on the multi meter, so he set to and took the fuse box out and and thats when the water came out, on dismantling the box it was suffering from the onset of corrosion, so a new fuse box is on its way, £178 off Ebay, chuffing hurricanes and a stupid hole in the scuttle, we are both happy now that he has found the fault and he is coming back to fit in a couple days when it arrives
Been eagerly waiting for this update Nigel and that sounds like a brilliant find. I’ve been unsuccessfully checking looms for split wires all day, but tomorrow I’ll check my fuse box thoroughly too. Fingers crossed. Like you say, that stupid scuttle could be the cause of all these problems. Thanks again for sharing👍
 
Under bonnet fuse board removed. Surprisingly, no corrosion or moisture found. Fuses and contacts all cleaned. Replaced and connected and still got the immobiliser light😭. Time to start tracing wires I think. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Under bonnet fuse board removed. Surprisingly, no corrosion or moisture found. Fuses and contacts all cleaned. Replaced and connected and still got the immobiliser light😭. Time to start tracing wires I think. 🤷🏻‍♂️
Don't know if it would be any good on later systems, but many years ago on an Iveco Daily 2004? roughly, I had quotes of over £1k from Dealers for same problem , but caused by lost chip for key (long story) ECU was a Bosch MS6.9 I think, I posted the ECU to a car computer guy in Bradford (no longer there) who disabled the immobiliser, it came back with certain instructions on what not to reconnect and vehicle ran perfectly total cost back then £137 including postage from memory.
Obviously need to notify insurers of lack of immobiliser in case of any future claim.:)
 
Don't know if it would be any good on later systems, but many years ago on an Iveco Daily 2004? roughly, I had quotes of over £1k from Dealers for same problem , but caused by lost chip for key (long story) ECU was a Bosch MS6.9 I think, I posted the ECU to a car computer guy in Bradford (no longer there) who disabled the immobiliser, it came back with certain instructions on what not to reconnect and vehicle ran perfectly total cost back then £137 including postage from memory.
Obviously need to notify insurers of lack of immobiliser in case of any future claim.:)
Thanks, good point. I did wonder about the key, but don't have a spare to check (only a standard key). I may have to send the key off to the place NigelNovice mentioned http://www.autotronics.co.uk and get them to check it.
👍
 
Thanks, good point. I did wonder about the key, but don't have a spare to check (only a standard key). I may have to send the key off to the place NigelNovice mentioned http://www.autotronics.co.uk and get them to check it.
👍
My problem was I bought a 3.5 tonne crewcab pick up from auction ex water board drove home OK , as it was in sh*t order I steam cleaned inside the cab and everywhere else and it wouldn't start, immobiliser light on.
Long story short it turns out the water board workshop got fed up with replacing broken expensive keys so put the chip behind the speaker taped to the aerial sensor and I had blown it away.:(
 
My problem was I bought a 3.5 tonne crewcab pick up from auction ex water board drove home OK , as it was in sh*t order I steam cleaned inside the cab and everywhere else and it wouldn't start, immobiliser light on.
Long story short it turns out the water board workshop got fed up with replacing broken expensive keys so put the chip behind the speaker taped to the aerial sensor and I had blown it away.:(
🤣🤣
 
It's here,
As it was Saturday when I ordered the fuse box the nice people I was getting it off rang me (and emailed) 9am Monday to check I was getting the right one, I took part number off old one, they said it was after taking the reg. it was in my hand 1pm today (Tuesday), inside the cardboard box was a leaflet showing another line the do - Moho Mirrors
put www.magnumvs.co.uk in your book, they do all sorts of moho and commercial vehicle spares, well happy with their service, getting it fitted tomorrow :)


1705426623920.png
 
Great service there!!👍. The website looks really useful too. Thanks for posting. Definitely bookmarking them.
Fingers crossed all’s well after your fuse box fitting🤞
 
Update,
It lives at last, now Friday, what a saga, so the fuse box arrived and was duly fitted Wednesday, still not starting though so my man started to check things out again after thinking we had it nailed with the wet fuse box, OBD scanner still not able to communicate properly, he started peeling back the tape holding the loom together after checking out the wiring diagram, researching further he discovered fuse 22 under the bonnet was the one needed to rid us of the lock symbol but it had no feed unlike with the old fuse box full of water giving a 3.8 volt reading even without a fuse in, this he found was supposed to be energised by the relay next to it, the relay was not kicking in and so he checked its feed and it had power but had no earth or grounding for it to operate, he rigged a temp earth and and she started and OBD scanner connected, I was so happy I nearly peed, by now it was getting late and bloody freezing (coldest spell the UK's had this year), this was the second night on the trot, till 9 first night and 8 last, as he now knew what up he came back tonight and traced this ground wire and found a break, now when I said wire! I have seen thicker pubic hairs! anyway it was soldered together heat shrinked, she started again so he then set to rewrapping the loom where needed and I started putting all the dash trim etc back on, one happy bunny tonight :) I've even set the clock to the right time :)
Hope this helps others, why did it break who knows
 
Update,
It lives at last, now Friday, what a saga, so the fuse box arrived and was duly fitted Wednesday, still not starting though so my man started to check things out again after thinking we had it nailed with the wet fuse box, OBD scanner still not able to communicate properly, he started peeling back the tape holding the loom together after checking out the wiring diagram, researching further he discovered fuse 22 under the bonnet was the one needed to rid us of the lock symbol but it had no feed unlike with the old fuse box full of water giving a 3.8 volt reading even without a fuse in, this he found was supposed to be energised by the relay next to it, the relay was not kicking in and so he checked its feed and it had power but had no earth or grounding for it to operate, he rigged a temp earth and and she started and OBD scanner connected, I was so happy I nearly peed, by now it was getting late and bloody freezing (coldest spell the UK's had this year), this was the second night on the trot, till 9 first night and 8 last, as he now knew what up he came back tonight and traced this ground wire and found a break, now when I said wire! I have seen thicker pubic hairs! anyway it was soldered together heat shrinked, she started again so he then set to rewrapping the loom where needed and I started putting all the dash trim etc back on, one happy bunny tonight :) I've even set the clock to the right time :)
Hope this helps others, why did it break who knows
Sounds like your electrician man was a good bloke to know.:)
 
Update,
It lives at last, now Friday, what a saga, so the fuse box arrived and was duly fitted Wednesday, still not starting though so my man started to check things out again after thinking we had it nailed with the wet fuse box, OBD scanner still not able to communicate properly, he started peeling back the tape holding the loom together after checking out the wiring diagram, researching further he discovered fuse 22 under the bonnet was the one needed to rid us of the lock symbol but it had no feed unlike with the old fuse box full of water giving a 3.8 volt reading even without a fuse in, this he found was supposed to be energised by the relay next to it, the relay was not kicking in and so he checked its feed and it had power but had no earth or grounding for it to operate, he rigged a temp earth and and she started and OBD scanner connected, I was so happy I nearly peed, by now it was getting late and bloody freezing (coldest spell the UK's had this year), this was the second night on the trot, till 9 first night and 8 last, as he now knew what up he came back tonight and traced this ground wire and found a break, now when I said wire! I have seen thicker pubic hairs! anyway it was soldered together heat shrinked, she started again so he then set to rewrapping the loom where needed and I started putting all the dash trim etc back on, one happy bunny tonight :) I've even set the clock to the right time :)
Hope this helps others, why did it break who knows
Many thanks for posting the result. I am pleased that your problem is resolved. Broken wires are not unknown on older Ducatos, as they have been mentioned in previous threads. For information, F22 is described as the main injection fuse, and the relay T09 which controls the supply to the fuse, is named as the "Main Injection Relay". No wonder that you had problems.
 
Update,
It lives at last, now Friday, what a saga, so the fuse box arrived and was duly fitted Wednesday, still not starting though so my man started to check things out again after thinking we had it nailed with the wet fuse box, OBD scanner still not able to communicate properly, he started peeling back the tape holding the loom together after checking out the wiring diagram, researching further he discovered fuse 22 under the bonnet was the one needed to rid us of the lock symbol but it had no feed unlike with the old fuse box full of water giving a 3.8 volt reading even without a fuse in, this he found was supposed to be energised by the relay next to it, the relay was not kicking in and so he checked its feed and it had power but had no earth or grounding for it to operate, he rigged a temp earth and and she started and OBD scanner connected, I was so happy I nearly peed, by now it was getting late and bloody freezing (coldest spell the UK's had this year), this was the second night on the trot, till 9 first night and 8 last, as he now knew what up he came back tonight and traced this ground wire and found a break, now when I said wire! I have seen thicker pubic hairs! anyway it was soldered together heat shrinked, she started again so he then set to rewrapping the loom where needed and I started putting all the dash trim etc back on, one happy bunny tonight :) I've even set the clock to the right time :)
Hope this helps others, why did it break who knows
Such good news at last (and a bloody good laugh too🤣 glad you’re still able to laugh after all this!). Really has been helpful to me. I’ve now spent hours looking at pubic looms hoping to see a broken wire. Son-in-law is a bit of a leccy and reckons he can test the wires. I’ll show him your last post to start his testing. Bit of a coincidence if it’s the same wire though. Fingers crossed. Will update if it ever gets fixed.
 
Hi

Here are my notes about the main injection relay T09 in the underbonnet fuse box B001:

The power supply to the ECU (M010) starts at the Battery B099 and flows via the 150 Amp Maxi Fuse F70 to Pin 1 of the engine compartment Junction Unit (and Fuse Box) B001. This is a vital high current connection with a thick red cable. Here it supplies F01, F02, F05, F18 plus many other fuses. It also supplies the contacts of the main injection Relay T09. From here, current flows via Fuse F17 to pin H2 of ECU connector C and via Fuse F22 to pin H1 of ECU connector A. The main injection relay also supplies the Glow Plug controller via Fuse F11 and energises the coil of the Air Conditioning relay T05.

The coil of Relay T09 receives a direct battery power supply via the line protected by Fuse F18 in B001. The relay is energised by an (earth) control signal from pin G1 of ECU connector B (Orange/White wire)


So it sounds like the wiring break was in the control line from the ECU. With no energisation of the main injection relay, not much will happen ! The current for a relay coil is typically only 0.2 Amps, so the wire doesn't have to be very thick to work electrically. Unfortunately this doesn't allow the physical robustness that might be more appropriate for such a vital connection.

Glad you got it sorted in the end.
 
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