Technical car chuggs help PLEASE :(

[AxelEph]

it starte about a month ago and my car chugged a couple of times on the way home from work. Then it started happeineg some more, feels like not enought petrol going to it. So i looked on here n found plenty ppl whive had same prob. With a list of possible solutions i went for the cheapest - REDEX

whacked redex in and it worked fine, easy i thought nice n cheap way to fix it. As soon as i run low on petrol, i filled up n it started chugging again about 20 mins later. In the middle of the night on the M25 i whacked some more rededx in and it worked fine.

I thought well i it works with redex maybe itd the filter so i changed the fuel filter. Whcked some mor redex in for good measure and worked fine, until more petrol when it did it again. I spoke to my mate who owned the car before (Phatashki) he said it happened to him about 18 months ago n was the lamda sensor. So i got out a diagnostics guy for help too. Charged me 50 quid to tell me that my lamda sensor had an error and to replace it.

Went to Fiat, 100 pounds please WHOAH i said surely not. Went to halfords 105 pounds please, WHOAAHH!! no way, so i spoke to ash again said place near him 50 quid so of i went. Fitted it the next day and no porbs until last night when on the way to work, just as the car is at a warm temp it chuggs agains with warning light just lilke before.

HELP Please! What else can it be?

-changed fuel filter
-chenged lamda sensor
-check the ignition coils too they are both fine, well seem it, the car starts with either one of them plugged in just really shakey, but a different type of shake to my problem

please please help me solve my problem cos its gettin expensive and im sure it aint good for my engine

cheers,

Axeleph

 

[arseofbox]

Could be anything ECU related.

Check all basic connections (like LT and HT coil connections), see if vthe MAP works (suck on the tube), and get a code-scan.

 

[AxelEph]

Could be anything ECU related.

Check all basic connections (like LT and HT coil connections), see if vthe MAP works (suck on the tube), and get a code-scan.

thanks for the reply.

ive had a code scan which was cost me 50 quid to tell me it was the lambda sensor, which i replaced which didnt fix it.

Did i mention im not a mechanic? how does one check the LT and HT coils? Just on way to work so i'll suck on the MAP tube...what am i looking for there. Just before brooklands i put yellow plastic hose over that pipe, would that have anything to do with the problem?

cheers again

 

[rallycinq]

If the roblem started after that, then yes. Check very carefully for any splits in the pipe or the connectors.

Your lambda is throwing the code, but it is seeing something it doesn't understand.

Cheers

D

 

[arseofbox]

Did i mention im not a mechanic? how does one check the LT and HT coils? Just on way to work so i'll suck on the MAP tube?

HT Coil check - Pull a lead off one plug with the engine off - hold it 1-2" above the plug top with a pair of INSULATED pliers (20kV through the arm hurts) and get someone to start the engine, the engine should idle ok and there should be a steady arc of pink-blue sparks between the plug top and the lead (dont try and touch them..). Repeat it for the opposite end of that lead.

Do that for the remaining 3 plugs / coil connections. A duff lead, plug or coil will manifest as a loss of spark or a weak (usually orange) spark on a connection.

LT Check - check the wiring against the wiring diagram in the front of a Haynes manual.

MAP - Sucking the air out of the pipe creates a partial vacuum, which is what the sensor responds to. You should to be able to suck fairly hard before the engine drops and you can actually make the engine stall if you can suck hard enough to pull the air out quickly (the ECU cant react quick enough)

 

[AxelEph]

thanks alot for that arseofbox

i checked the spark leads 2 days ago for colour of sparks and the second one i did had an orange kinda glow so i thoguht i'd stop there n replace them all anyway.

got some nice bright orange ones from halfrauds (soon to be covered in yellow) and they seem to have done the trick!!

the geezer who charged me 50 nicker to tell me my lambda sensor werent working is a knob. I even mentioned 'reckon it might be the spark leads or plugs?' he said nah i wouldnt think so, prick.

So anybody in need of an 18 month old lambda sensor for a sporting? cheap as chips its going for. cheers again for your helps, made my month

*touch wood*

 

[T14086]

HT Coil check - Pull a lead off one plug with the engine off - hold it 1-2" above the plug top with a pair of INSULATED pliers (20kV through the arm hurts) and get someone to start the engine, the engine should idle ok and there should be a steady arc of pink-blue sparks between the plug top and the lead (dont try and touch them..). Repeat it for the opposite end of that lead.

Do that for the remaining 3 plugs / coil connections. A duff lead, plug or coil will manifest as a loss of spark or a weak (usually orange) spark on a connection.

LT Check - check the wiring against the wiring diagram in the front of a Haynes manual.

Dont want to be 'picky' but only 100% sure way of testing a coil is with it working (i.e. under load) as most coils (unless o.c.) reak down under load.