On the early model, 2000-07 ish. I have put in new door strike guides and adjusted but they still stick out at the top and let water in. Any other adjustment i may have missed. Does the top slide adjust in more?

You could try a washer under each of the bottom roller mounting bracket bolts mate

michael finnegan said:

You could try a washer under each of the bottom roller mounting bracket bolts mate

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AH HA. Just had a look at the CD manual and it looks like i can adjust that so i will try that first cheers. See the top arm that runs along the slider/guide. I have play in the round slider/bush. Should I? as that will explain a couple of MM.

loosen the 4 hex screws securing the top arm, pull the door towards inside while its open and tighten screws while still holding in. In my case, a tw200 taxi passengers would insist to lean on the doors or even sit with their backs against them bending the upper arm. Only way I could cure when above eventually had no effect was to take arms off and bend them back in a vice...Very carefully less they fractured.

Andycabs said:

loosen the 4 hex screws securing the top arm, pull the door towards inside while its open and tighten screws while still holding in. In my case, a tw200 taxi passengers would insist to lean on the doors or even sit with their backs against them bending the upper arm. Only way I could cure when above eventually had no effect was to take arms off and bend them back in a vice...Very carefully less they fractured.

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Lol I was thinking how I could bent the top in and now you mention that its so bloody obvious What if I disconnect that arm, does the other two mounts hold it in place enough? as in the door is not going to fall on the floor

Cheers Andy

door will no fall off. But be careful bending, do NOT wallop with a hammer...ideally find a spare on fleabay "just in case"

I could be wrong on this but i fail to see how the top arm/roller has any relevance to the door position whilst closed, the slide it rolls in has no latch at the end and the slide obviousley rolls round 90 degrees to close. So If you push the outside of the door where top roller is you will be able to feel the roller move back and forth and no adjustment here can change this.


I have replaced a few sliding doors and one or two have had washers/shims under lower roller bracket which looked to be from new, which essentially angles the door, the door strikes will still pull the door in the same distance.


If you have replaced the plastic insert in the top door strike i would consider this option

michael finnegan said:

I could be wrong on this but i fail to see how the top arm/roller has any relevance to the door position whilst closed, the slide it rolls in has no latch at the end and the slide obviousley rolls round 90 degrees to close. So If you push the outside of the door where top roller is you will be able to feel the roller move back and forth and no adjustment here can change this.


I have replaced a few sliding doors and one or two have had washers/shims under lower roller bracket which looked to be from new, which essentially angles the door, the door strikes will still pull the door in the same distance.


If you have replaced the plastic insert in the top door strike i would consider this option

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I have play in the arm mike. Ok 2mm at most but its a 2mm gap at the top of the door. What i cant suss is if the wheel on the arm should have play as if not i would get a new one but ill try bending the top of the door slightly and see how that goes. I have had a few Pug 306's in my time and the top of the doors over the years seemed to bend out for some reason so i would wind the window down and bed the top in slightly what helped. I hear you about the washers under the bottom mount and i will be trying this out also when i get more time. Come the good weather this van is getting converted into a mini camper so i need it water tight
Another thing i notice with the top arm looking at 2nd hand is the side connected to the door. A lot are bent out at the top slightly just above the top two screws so this is making sense to what Andy is saying.
I did replace the female side of the strike but no joy but also notice the door seal between the front and slide door is thinner at the last two inch at the top (Both sides) so ill look at other vans to see if i have cheap seals in mine.

If you had 10mm of play in the arm i don't think it would make any difference to door position once you managed to close it mate, a small amount of play in the roller is only going to effect the smoothness I reckon.
There is a small amout of adjustment in the male part of the top strike but you probably tried that.
A mini camper hey cool I use mine to transport my mx bike, partially converted camper van loads of room! once the bike is out.

About 2mm not 10. Whatever i did the other day i better undo it as i took the van into Edinburgh today and it was way worse that before

I sold my bike Mike to get the van. Ill need to get admin to change my username now Lol

I used to have a old shape fiat its the rollers worn away that allows the play.. I ript sum 10mm x 4mm ply and glued it on the track to compensate the play when the door is shut no sticking out perfect!

Sexy scudo said:

I used to have a old shape fiat its the rollers worn away that allows the play.. I ript sum 10mm x 4mm ply and glued it on the track to compensate the play when the door is shut no sticking out perfect!

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Thats interesting. I take it you are talking about the bottom runner as the top is angled wrong when shut as its horizontal to the door.

No the top running track the arm runs in that with a small wheel..i fixed the ply rip in ther

Number 21 is the track fixed to the van.. Number 3 is the arm with wheel attached to door

Sexy scudo said:

No the top running track the arm runs in that with a small wheel..i fixed the ply rip in ther

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Cheers. I was just thinking as you know when the door is closing that arm slider out the way but i will be giving this a go as i do have play in that wheel at the end of the arm. With that and Mikes washer idea my door should be air tight

Sexy scudo said:

I used to have a old shape fiat its the rollers worn away that allows the play.. I ript sum 10mm x 4mm ply and glued it on the track to compensate the play when the door is shut no sticking out perfect!

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Really! genius

When the top of the sliding door will not pull in, after all other adjustments tried the only way to cure is to either bend the top of the door in...or as I prefer, to bend the arm at top of door outwards.

My reply to sexy scudos post was sarcastic mate, bending the arm is pointless but bending the door is plausble which gpz750 already has experience of i believe

michael finnegan said:

but bending the door is plausble which gpz750 already has experience of i believe

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I did Mike. Either not enough or it was useless. With the new year celebrations and the bloody rain i have yet to try the washers and the bits of wood in the runners. 65mph i may as well turn the stereo off

michael finnegan said:

You could try a washer under each of the bottom roller mounting bracket bolts mate

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I forgot to come back on this. OK there is already a washer in there. I added a second what was only 1-1.5mm thick on each bolt. The top runner also has a slight adjust. Losen the three bolts you see in the runner and push inwards with a screwdriver. Holden everything in place tighten up and bobs your uncle. You May not get your door open so jump in the back, open door and adjust the door stay pushing inwards and jobs a good un.