I've just fitted my rear lowering springs and about to do the fronts, do I need to replace any of the bolts holding the strut on?

Also jacking the rear of the car - where are you meant to put a trolley jack on the rear? I went and bent my sill trying to jack it up and leave enought room to get the axel stand under the reinforced point.
I know you should use it on the transmission housing at the front but is this the only place at the front also?

Cheers people

If the bolts come out in ok condition you could re-use them. But personally I would replace them. Either way smear the whole bolt with anti seize paste to reduce corrosion.

I use the front suspension/subframe mounts for jacking and axle stands (just enough space for both)

At the back a block of plywood with a slot so it wont slip under the the cross beam has worked for me. I worked at each side but reckon the middle of the beam is strong enough.

What do others think?

Another thing actually is a small hole I need welding under the car. Only the size of my smal finger nail.
Could I cheat and just clean up the rust - treat it - then body filler?

Was thinking of painting all the underneath of the car to protect it for abit longer

bredsticz said:

Another thing actually is a small hole I need welding under the car. Only the size of my smal finger nail.
Could I cheat and just clean up the rust - treat it - then body filler?

Was thinking of painting all the underneath of the car to protect it for abit longer

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If it is not within 30 cm of a seat belt anchor or major structural part, then filler will suffice come MOT time. However, the rust can spread since Kurust and similar products only treat the surface. If it is such a small hole, having the bad metal cut out completely and a tiny plate welding in should not be too pricey.

When the carpet is taken up as (has to be so the car doesn't catch fire) the hole might be bigger than it looks. Best to get it welded and while the carpets are out check for anything else. You can save £50 by doing the carpets yourself.

Also, with regard to using new bolts, I certainly would. Reusing old bolts when securing a suspension arm, I damaged the threads in the weld-nut. Had to have the bolt drilled, subframe dropped, weld-nut cut off and new weld-nut replaced. Not a huge amount of cash but certainly more than it would have been to get the new bolts in the first place, Lesson learned.

MikeSalt said:

Also, with regard to using new bolts, I certainly would. Reusing old bolts when securing a suspension arm, I damaged the threads in the weld-nut. Had to have the bolt drilled, subframe dropped, weld-nut cut off and new weld-nut replaced. Not a huge amount of cash but certainly more than it would have been to get the new bolts in the first place, Lesson learned.

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Well I tryed this before. Went and bought offset head spanners just to get at the top bolt. Done.
Base of the strut has 2 bolts and nuts. 1 out and other rusted and rounded! :bang: Just as it started to rain so I gave up! Duno how to do this now.

Also taking all the carpets out is EFFORT! I'll have to check how near the anchor points it is

Nut splitter, blowlamp or better oxy torch. If no oxy torch available you can arc weld onto the nut. This will heat it and leave the bolt cold so it should come loose.

If its stripped a nut splitter will break the nut off the bolt. Like this oil it well before use
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NUT-SPLITTER-...3195?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment#ht_1134wt_754

Check the damage, but if the rot has spread the carpets will need to come out at least you can then check for other rust.

Try to avoid 12 point spanners and sockets. 6 pointers wont round the corners off so I always use them when anything's looking well stuck.

I've never had any of them tools before

Will that nut splitter definately break it off? If so I may invest in one of them and replace the bolts aswell

Those boys will spread and split the nut but need some serious force so make sure the threads are well oiled. Those cheapies probably wont last for long but for the odd job who cares.

TBH if the bolts are that bad its best to change them. See what you can get from an engineering factors. I'm tempted to say go for stainless bolts with a normal (nyloc) nut, but not sure if they need to be high tensile (and large stainless bolts aint cheap).