One more question regarding the thermostat. I think it must be opened during the draining procedure, so I suppose that maybe I have to warm up the engine, before I unplug the hose from the radiator.
An again maybe, I shall see if the hose can be easily unplugged (it may be stuck), before that, when the engine is still cold.
What is your opinion?

Batfalcon said:

One more question regarding the thermostat. I think it must be opened during the draining procedure, so I suppose that maybe I have to warm up the engine, before I unplug the hose from the radiator.
An again maybe, I shall see if the hose can be easily unplugged (it may be stuck), before that, when the engine is still cold.
What is your opinion?

Click to expand...

Nope, will drain out through the pump

Always change coolant on a cold engine....!!

Batfalcon said:

An again maybe, I shall see if the hose can be easily unplugged (it may be stuck), before that, when the engine is still cold.
What is your opinion?

Click to expand...

Update: Unable to remove the coupling. Seams to be stuck on the radiator's hose.

Use some light, penetrating spray oil ( like WD-40) on the clamp(s) and hose end.
Remove the clamp, and grap the hose with your hands, and twist it somewhat.
It will come loose.

Peter Pick-Up said:

Use some light, penetrating spray oil ( like WD-40) on the clamp(s) and hose end.
Remove the clamp, and grap the hose with your hands, and twist it somewhat.
It will come loose.

Click to expand...

:yeahthat: It will move such a little bit, that it'll feel like its not moving, but you'll get there

Might also be worth trying a flat head screw driver for prying also

First of all, you must know that all job is made from above, because under the engine there is a protective metal plate, which must be unscrewed and removed, if you want to reach it from under the car.

First I grabbed it with the pliers, pushing inside the 2 metal knobs. With my left hand I tried to twist it, or move it somehow, unfortunately with no luck.

So, I called a mechanic friend of mine who told me that I must be extremely careful with those couplings, because the tend to brake quite often. Or maybe brake the hose end from the radiator!!!

He suggested an other more time consuming method, but safer.
First I have to remove the rubber tube that reaches the top of the expansion container, (the thinner one). Then start the engine and as the water from this tube empties gradually the system, replace the missing water in the container. First with fresh water and when it comes clean from this tube's end, then I have to continue adding Paraflu.

How does this sound?

Don't use pure Paraflu!
Dilute it 50/50% with distilled water....!

Peter Pick-Up said:

Don't use pure Paraflu!
Dilute it 50/50% with distilled water....!

Click to expand...

Ok, I will. As far as the method, any comments?

I would do it from underneath....!!

Peter Pick-Up said:

I would do it from underneath....!!

Click to expand...

:yeahthat:

Never had any metal plates in the way on any of our mk3's (2 UK and 1 Portuguese spec).

hi ,
thanks for the pics - I now see what you mean about NOT removing the factory hose clip,

So - does it need to be turned left - or right..??,
or just wiggle it to push-out the retaining spring clips then pull -off straight..??,
thanks,
Charlie

varesecrazy said:

hi ,
thanks for the pics - I now see what you mean about NOT removing the factory hose clip,

So - does it need to be turned left - or right..??,
or just wiggle it to push-out the retaining spring clips then pull -off straight..??,
thanks,
Charlie

Click to expand...

There is a locator, so it won't twist to the left or right, but it helps to try and twist left and right while yanking it off, if you get what I mean.

(Almost sig worthy that last bit lol).

Most Easterly Pandas said:

:yeahthat:

Never had any metal plates in the way on any of our mk3's (2 UK and 1 Portuguese spec).

Click to expand...

Do you mean that your 4X4 models haven't got any protective metal sheet underneath the engine?

Batfalcon said:

Do you mean that your 4X4 models haven't got any protective metal sheet underneath the engine?

Click to expand...

No, was on about 2wd. Forgot you have a 4wd.

Shouldn't be to hard to remove it...??

Depends if the bolts have rusted or not.

How is an oil change be done..?
I suppose it has to come of as well, so the bolts can't be that rusty....!!??

It isn't rusty at all.
Never the less it's kind of hard to remove. If you lie down on your back under the car, you have to unscrew 4 or 5 bolts with one hand, (don't exactly remember how many), each on every corner of this plate, which is rather big, while you are holding it in place with your other hand. Remember that is covers all the engine compartment from underneath.
It's much too easier if the car is on the lift, (something that only repair shops have),

Took mine off - and left it off - for exactly that reason. It's a heavy sucker and it's not like I tackle the Atlas Mountains on a typical Monday morning. The protective plastic cover for the crank pulley is still in place though, which is important, as that's where my supercharger pulley also runs of course, so I don't want stones and muck in there too often.

If I started to go offroad more, I'd put the sumpguard back on....