General 54 plate not revving past 3k?

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General 54 plate not revving past 3k?

realstokebloke

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Mmm.

I have an existing engine light (I know what that is: it's the low speed fan - so not an urgent life or death and one to get fixed when next it goes in for electrics).

But the problem there is that anything else that the engine management throws out is also hidden under that same light i guess?

So, my good lady reported to me last night that "it's suddenly got no oomph" and sure enough, it doesn't rev past 3 - 3,200 revs.

So is that the Engine management itself restricting the revs (a 'limp home' type mode?) or is something physically stopping it (turbo / egr maybe?)

(She has been doing multiple very short journeys of late back & forth to work, so might that affect the egr?)

Either way, what's the best way to nail it bearing in mind I am trying to avoid the £45+ just for plugging it in to diagnose it if at all possible.

Cheers.
 
This may or may not help diagnose the issue?

Just been out in it and it started fine and revved like a good 'un in neutral, then batted along the bypass for a couple of minutes but then after slowing for traffic, it had gone into the 'limp mode' (not exceeding 3,000 rpm).

Does that point to anything in particular?

Thanks.
 
Hi,
You need to get a diagnostic reader on it rather than guessing. I suggest Multiecuscan and a USB ELM 327 EOBD interface
http://www.multiecuscan.net/
and ebay item 271275445368
It would also be useful to know what engine is in your car.

Robert G8RPI.

Hi Robert & thanks.

She's a 1.9 JTD.

I'll check out the reader, cheers but just curious why it would start & run fine and then after so long, the 'limp mode' seems to kick in.
 
Hi,
You need to get a diagnostic reader on it rather than guessing. I suggest Multiecuscan and a USB ELM 327 EOBD interface
http://www.multiecuscan.net/
and ebay item 271275445368
It would also be useful to know what engine is in your car.

Robert G8RPI.

That download (2.8 Multiecuscan) produced a dialogue box warning that a the file could harm the computer ?

Is it a kosher download / can it?

(just checking before I do, as if i mess up the new laptop mrs realstokebloke will have my guts for...) :)

Thanks.
 
That download (2.8 Multiecuscan) produced a dialogue box warning that a the file could harm the computer ?

Is it a kosher download / can it?

(just checking before I do, as if i mess up the new laptop mrs realstokebloke will have my guts for...) :)

Thanks.

Hi,
It's the genuine site and I've never had issues. I think it's just windows paranoia because theyhaven't paid Microsoft for verification.

Robert G8RPI.
 
OK, so I got the engine management read by my local mr spanners.

As well as the low speed fan code that I knew about (& won't clear, so will have to go onto the long list of jobs list) it also came up with a code:

PO235 Boost Pressure

Which, I was told by said mr spanners, is the turbo. And at which point, he reckoned I needed to go to someone a bit more clued up than him on turbos as it could be one of several things, ranging from something 'minor' like a split pipe to something more costly like a new turbo.

Is that the case period or does that code actually tell me more than that does anyone know please?

Up in the Fylde Coast (Preston / Blackpool), so anyone know any good 'mr turbos' (or indeed, any good 'mr Fiats' up this way at all?

Thanks.
 
OK, so ... I have my other car in with my other mr spanners and mentioned the above - he checked on the code and says that it is probably not the turbo at all but, literally as the code implies, the boost pressure valve itself ...

He reckons a new one would be circa £100 (?) & time to strip it out and refit would be circa £same again. Does that sound kosher for the part & time cost or is it something I could / should attempt?

Rudimentary ability would cover it.

; )
 
MAF sensor needs cleaning or white connector needs re-making.

Basics first - before money is spent - eliminate the white connector :

- has a hiccup, but does not cut out
- hits a ' flat spot ' then does a ' Lazarus '
- has no problems restarting

You should eliminate the infamous white connector, its cost free and takes all of 60 seconds, do it before spending a penny and even .. .. .. before asking for advice.

The black cable from the potentiometer bottle above the throttle pedal traverses left behind the stereo to the passenger side, it carries a varying ohms resistance message [ depending on the throttle position ] to the ECU via the white connector You will get the injector light and at least 3 unrelated code errors from this dirty connection. Garages charge £150 at least for a potentiometer replacement when in truth they just clean or make good the white connector.

If you are foːɐ̯ʃpʁʊŋ dʊɐ̯ç ˈtɛçnɪk, then go the whole hog and solder & sleeve it, but most times just pulling it apart 5 or 6 times is enough to make a good electrical contact.

NOTE : A black cable goes from the throttle bottle above the accelerator behind the radio and heater controls to the passenger side footwell bulkhead. You will see an eight or six way white multi connector, its the only white one under the NS bulkhead.
 
No worries QQ. It took me a while to find the right thread. Search brings up pages of results, but I had a vague recollection of seeing photos on one of them. Thanks too to steverich I guess, though he sold his Multi a while ago.
 
I've still got mine - parked up for 5 years now on SORN. I went to the dark side with a GV, but the widemouth is still started every few months or so and taken for a 20 mile ride on trade plates, I kept it for a rainy day but haven't seen it in all that time, my mate takes it out to keep juice running through the wiring. You take care - Best of luck.
 
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