Technical Idle too high

[turbo500]

So my signorina finally arrived, but as soon as I start it, the idle seems way too high.

When I checked it at the mechanic, it was running fine, but it seems something happened during shipping.

I've attached some photos, maybe there's something I'm missing.

The throttle butterfly screw (A) is completely unscrewed, while screw (B) for mixture is as is. I tried turning it 1 rotation both directions but it didn't seem to do anything. I also didn't want to screw up anything.

Someone suggested to check if the choke cable is catching somewhere? How would I check that it's effectively 'down' on the engine side?

Also how would I remove the hand throttle cable to eliminate that as a factor?

Thanks in advance!

 

[fiat500]

Unclamp the choke cable at the carb for now as the photo shows it in the "on" position. See any difference?

 

[g8rpi]

A separate issue, but the flexible fuel line could do with replacing. You can see longitudinal splits at the fuel filter by the pipe clip.

Robert G8RPI.

 

[turbo500]

Dumb questions incoming:

How do I unclamp it?

I noticed that pulling the choke lever up and down doesnt seem to move anything on carb....

 

[Toshi 975]

By the look of the picture the throttle screw is not fully out so you should have some more adjustment there plus the choke on would not help. I can see that there is some corrosion there and that someone has doubled up on the throttle return springs for some reason but it suggests that the choke & acceratotor cables may be sticking.

 

[turbo500]

Is the throttle screw supposed to be completely unscrewed?

Also, should I remove the second spring from the throttle cable?

 

[turbo500]

A separate issue, but the flexible fuel line could do with replacing. You can see longitudinal splits at the fuel filter by the pipe clip.

Robert G8RPI.

Thanks Robert, is there a consensus for fuel line spec or generic fuel lines are ok?

 

[BambinoClassic]

I picked up mine from a local auto store and the clamps too. As long as the diameter is right they work (or mine has) fine

 

[Toshi 975]

Is the throttle screw supposed to be completely unscrewed?

Also, should I remove the second spring from the throttle cable?

No , the screw is there for fine adjustment when all else is operating correctly.
The extra Spring is probably there to try and compensate for rusted up cables which are obviously not working if the choke will not release.

 

[turbo500]

No , the screw is there for fine adjustment when all else is operating correctly.
The extra Spring is probably there to try and compensate for rusted up cables which are obviously not working if the choke will not release.

Ok, so it was the choke as Fiat500 said

So now I need to figure out why the cable is not moving with the lever. It might have been roughed up by the customs/transporters because it was working before shipping.

I've attached a video, does it seem to be running right or do i need to adjust the mixture?

[ame]https://youtu.be/zKakLaNMcFc[/ame]

 

[Paolo66]

It looks like the choke mechanism is very corroded and may not be returning closed. With the choke down and off in the car try and force the mechanism to the rear of the car (off). If it moves try and start the car. If it doesnt theres your problem. All the other points mentioned need addressing also

 

[Vitesse]

Thanks Robert, is there a consensus for fuel line spec or generic fuel lines are ok?

You want to get reinforced rubber nitrile fuel pipe 7 or 8 mm (5/16) will be ok. Reinforced as it has a cord inside the rubber moulding. Or you can go for braided steel ones if you want a bit of bling and added protection. It needs to be nitrile as modern fuel has ethanol in it and it is resistant to ethanol and oil. Change the clips at the same time as they have a tendency to loose their tightness once they have been in place for a long time.

Tony

 

[turbo500]

Thanks, so 5/16 inner diameter and reinforced nitrile. I keep seeing a lot of nitrile/pvc blend, is that ok or am I looking for nitrile only?

Anyone in the US know where to find some without having to buy 10 meters of it at once!?

 

[Vitesse]

I am pretty sure PVC mix is ok as I can see reference to it on some UK websites. You need 5/16 inner diameter to SAE J30R7 spec.

 

[turbo500]

Ok so I solved the issue of the air cable, the spring on the carb side of the air line wasnt set correctly, I just had to make sure the little 'tongue' was sitting right, so it works now.

But I went for a short test drive, and noticed after parking there is a leak of some sort on the front right wheel. I'm not sure what it is, but the bottom of the hub is wet. On a side note, when I turn the hub, there is a bit of a scoring/rubbing sound for a part of each rotation?

,

 

[g8rpi]

Ok so I solved the issue of the air cable, the spring on the carb side of the air line wasnt set correctly, I just had to make sure the little 'tongue' was sitting right, so it works now.

But I went for a short test drive, and noticed after parking there is a leak of some sort on the front right wheel. I'm not sure what it is, but the bottom of the hub is wet. On a side note, when I turn the hub, there is a bit of a scoring/rubbing sound for a part of each rotation?

,

Hi,
Only source for that amount of liquid is brake fluid. If it's affected the paint on the wheel that would be confirmation. With that much of leak you should not drive the car until it's sorted. Probably a seal gone on the slave cylinder.

Robert G8RPI.

 

[turbo500]

Yeah thats what I assumed. Does the workshop manual explain how to get to it?

 

[Vitesse]

There is a workshop manual here that has an explanation on how to remove the wheel and the hub in order to get to the wheel cylinder. Page 104 onwards.

Rather than change the seals you are better off replacing all four cylinders they are not expensive. You should replace the shoes now as well as they will be contaminated by the hydraulic fluid. Hopefully the brake lines come off ok as they can be difficult to remove if they have been in situ for a long time.

http://docfiat500.free.fr/Pour%20TIBOde%20Fran%E7ois%20qui%20te%20dit%20MERCI/F500_Manual.pdf

 

[turbo500]

I think I will probably get a whole new brake repair kit (shoes, springs, cylinder, hoses, etc) and do all 4 corners to get rid of issues.

 

[turbo500]

So if I use the same brake drum, and put in new shoes, springs, hoses, etc, how should I clean the existing drum?