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Old 12-11-2014   #16
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Re: Kingpin renewal

I have just pulled my Front suspension apart.
Kingpins need replacing. Does anyone know how you take these apart? cant find anything in any of the manuals I have. I can see a roll pin going through the stub axle part, and there is also what I can imagine to be a dust cover on the bottom of the tube with 2 holes in it, is it threaded?
Does anyone have a reamer for doing the king pins?
My father was a tool maker and he used to replace kin pin bushes so shouldn't be a problem. just need to know how and where to get a reamer from?
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Old 12-11-2014   #17
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Re: Kingpin renewal

Sean, the roll-pin should knock out. Ignore the peened disc in the bottom. Remove the top Silentboc. In theory it knocks out. Maybe use a press or the long bolt and washers/sockets method. Or do as me, burn out the rubber and hacksaw through the steel shell to release the pressure. You can then whack the pin downwards and it should take the disc with it. It might need more ingenuity and I have read horror sories of huge amounts of pressure needed. Take care and protect your hands. I once missed and made a hell of a mess of my left hand.
I actually got away with just new pins,. They will show the wear. Make sure you get a set as originals. The cheapos I got didn't have the central drilling to distribute grease and I expect them to fail very quickly.
Reaming is a black art made straightforward if you have the proper set with pilot etc.
The short adjustable reamers defeat the object as you can't do the bushes inline.
In future I will be buying an exchange set and I would recommend you do too unless you can get hold of the right kit or a real specialist to do it for you.
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Old 12-11-2014   #18
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Re: Kingpin renewal



If my memory serves me correctly, the procedure was asfollows:-
(1)---press the top bush out of the king-pin carrier
(2)---Drill a hole in the bottom ‘cover’—this allows the ‘cover’to distort as it comes out and therefore not damage its locating groove
(3)---knock out the roll-pin
(4)---drift out the old king-pin (the bottom ‘cover’ willcome out with it)
(5)---press out the old bushes
(6)---press in the new bushes
(7)---using a loooong ADJUSTABLE reamer, ream out the topand bottom bushes IN LINE—be careful, there is little lee-way between tight andloose.
(8)---fit new king-pin—ensure that it has a greasegroove. When fitting the new king-pin, there should be a spacer-washer aboveand below the stub-axle. They used to have a rubber seal round the outside ofthe washers to hold the grease in.
(9)---fit new roll-pin, to locate the king-pin
(10)--fit new top bush
(11)--fit new bottom ‘cover’ by fitting in the locationslot and flattening it (it is slightly domed as it is in effect a minicore-plug)
If you have a 500 stub axle assembly, it is worthwhiletrying to fit a 2nd grease nipple, like the 126 has, as this ensuresthat the king-pin gets grease at both top AND bottom. The 500 king-pins oftensuffered from a lack of lubrication at both ends.
I hope this isclear and is of help
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Old 12-03-2015   #19
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Re: Kingpin renewal

My Kingpin kit is now here. But I have a query.
There are 2 washers with grooves in both sides, presumably 1 on top and one on bottom. The grooves allow the grease out of the shaft and lubricate the joint.
Now there is also another plain washer which I believe also needs to be inserted in either the top or bottom to take up the slack. Then the rubber seal goes round one of the large washers.
My old ones were knackered & one had a washer missing so I cant tell how they are supposed to be. Plus I cannot find any diagrams anywhere for this set up.
Could anyone tell me the order of the washers & is the seal at the top or bottom?
I shall add some photos of the process if it is successful.
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Old 12-03-2015   #20
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Re: Kingpin renewal

Depending on the kit, you might not need all the washers, you might need to use some of the old ones and might need to grind some of them a bit thinner. The plastic one goes round the perimeter of the grooved ones as an attempt at a seal. They are to take the load or thrust and are placed above the stub axle. This leaves a gap at the bottom between the stub axle and the housing for the bushes. this is where the other washer/s are squeezed in. you need to eliminate play there whilst keeping a smooth movement so experiment is needed to get the right sized ones which can mean shaving a touch off a washer.
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Old 13-03-2015   #21
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Re: Kingpin renewal

Ok just to confirm.
One of the grooved washers goes on top with the rubber o ring around it.
Then the other grooved washer goes on the bottom with a plain washer underneath to pack out the gap.
That's it, that's all that comes in the kit, 3 washers & 1 o ring.
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Old 13-03-2015   #22
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Re: Kingpin renewal

I think you should have the two grooved ones up top, with the plastic cover, presuming it all fits. If you think about the setup, all the weight of the car is sitting on that interface. Those are heavy duty, engineering quality and the grooves are needed to let grease in since there is a lot of friction likely in there. The plain, bottom washer should have little or no stress and is there to avoid metal to metal of the steering components and so that the play can be taken up. This is the one that might need shaving a little to fit or where an old washer might fit better.
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Old 13-03-2015   #23
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Re: Kingpin renewal

Ah so the 2 grooved washers act as a bearing.
Only trouble is I swear that mine had a grooved washer top & bottom, but there is no guarantee that no one has replaced these before!
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Old 13-03-2015   #24
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Re: Kingpin renewal

Well that's how mine is now and it's giving no probs and passed the MOT.

Even so. it would be good if Mr. Hobbler could suddenly return to confirm all this before you dive in.
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Old 13-03-2015   #25
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Re: Kingpin renewal

Here's something I've got Sean which seems to confirm what Peter has said. I can't find what the part numbers are but it says 2 at the top with the seal and 1 at the bottom.

Damian

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Old 13-03-2015   #26
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Re: Kingpin renewal

Oh and a bit off topic but I've got a whole manual off this stuff. If anyone wants it PM me and I'll email it to you
Damian
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Old 13-03-2015   #27
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Re: Kingpin renewal

That info looks very haveable Damian; expect a PM.
It's interesting that that bottom washer has a multitude of parts numbers according to thickness needed. Obviously you just get the one random one in the kit.

Also, it looks like in a perfect world the bottom washer might be supposed to have a seal washer around it although I'm not sure it would fit.
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Last edited by fiat500; 13-03-2015 at 21:10.
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Old 15-03-2015   #28
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Re: Kingpin renewal

Checked dimensions of new bushes, they are about 0.008" larger diameter than original and too tight to go into the holes. Therefore they may need turning down a few thou but may try putting them in the freezer overnight, this will shrink them a few thou, whilst heating the upright which may expand holes a few thou.
Trouble being is this may then cause the bushes to be under too much pressure and can cause damage.
Other possibility is to turn the diameter down to fit in the holes & then glue them in with lock tight. Personally I prefer option 1.
Pattern parts! How much more difficult would it have been to make them the correct size first?
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Old 15-03-2015   #29
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Re: Kingpin renewal

Sorry to see you're hitting that wall Sean. I have a new policy of buying any and every original mechanical part that I notice at a fair price. I passed by a set of original kingpins a few months ago

I have read that there are some Polish kingpin setups where you don't even ream the bushes but I think those are made of nylon.

Are you sure the bushes won't press in? I doubt that the housing would fail against the bronze. On my older car the bushes are deliberately a tight fit and that is part of the reasoning behind reaming. Even if the inner dimension was perfect or nearly there, out of the box, the tightness needed means there would always be some distortion as they are pressed in.
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Old 15-03-2015   #30
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Re: Kingpin renewal

The old ones were an interference fit, but the new ones just seem a bit too tight, did try to force one in but met too much resistance, so decided not to push it any further.
With a bit of luck my father will machine them down to a slight interference fit and then may not require reaming.
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