Technical X250 3.0 man gearbox oil
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Technical X250 3.0 man gearbox oil
lancepar
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After all my searching, I found my local Oil stockist the best value for transmission oil for my X244.
http://www.theracegroup.co.uk/
There is a thread on here somewhere, but I can't find it.
Found it.
https://www.fiatforum.com/ducato/350159-gear-oil-ducato-2-8jtd-5-speed.html
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Thanks to RoloPolo, I picked up 3 x 1lt of Technyx today for exactly the same price - didn''t even have to ask for that bit of discount. Went into my local Iveco/Fiat truck & van dealer at 9.00am this morning and none on the shelf. Said they could get some by 2.30pm so went back at 2.45pm and there it was waiting for me.
Once again, thanks again for all your help, advice and ideas/comments.
Great forum & members
Once again, thanks again for all your help, advice and ideas/comments.
Great forum & members
No probably mate, glad to help
Going to tackle the oil in the next few days but a few questions:
Does the air box have to come out to re-fill the gear box or can it be done with a funnel and tube?
Any idea what size the hex plugs are? I've got an assortment of allen keys 120 miles away back home and need to get my wife to bring the correct size down to me at work as not going home for a few weeks.
The tech guide says use a thread sealant when re-fitting the plugs. Any recommendation?
Thanks
Paul
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rolopolo
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Hi Paul
To be fair, my mechanic friend did the job, we did remove the air filter housing, easier to do as I had front cross member/grill off etc while replacing throttle valve, he filed it using a pump that resembled a large push bike tyre pump through the top Allen key plug (at first he got the middle one!) but I couldn't tell you the size in afraid
Neil
To be fair, my mechanic friend did the job, we did remove the air filter housing, easier to do as I had front cross member/grill off etc while replacing throttle valve, he filed it using a pump that resembled a large push bike tyre pump through the top Allen key plug (at first he got the middle one!) but I couldn't tell you the size in afraid
Neil
Thanks Neil.
As there was break in the weather for a few minutes, I had a look underneath. I think I've identified the drain plug (black plastic one with what looks like an 8mm allen key hole) but I'm struggling to find the filler hole.
No matter how I orientate the drawing/document that I referred to in an earlier post, from underneath I can't even see any other plugs. Maybe I should be looking from the top but then the rain's come back.
Am I missing the obvious?
As there was break in the weather for a few minutes, I had a look underneath. I think I've identified the drain plug (black plastic one with what looks like an 8mm allen key hole) but I'm struggling to find the filler hole.
No matter how I orientate the drawing/document that I referred to in an earlier post, from underneath I can't even see any other plugs. Maybe I should be looking from the top but then the rain's come back.
Am I missing the obvious?
No need to take the airbox out just take the lid off and lift out the filter then look over the top down at the gearbox about two thirds up the box and you will see the filler bung.
I dont remember the drain plug being plastic and sorry I cant recall the socket size.
You just need a funnel and a piece of tube to fill.
Mike
I dont remember the drain plug being plastic and sorry I cant recall the socket size.
You just need a funnel and a piece of tube to fill.
Mike
This ain't going well
Draining the oil is the easy bit. Found the fill plug/hole, it's next to what I think is the reversing light switch. To get access to this hole, it's easier to remove the air box but the air box won't come out up through the top - it's too bloody big unless I start removing top cross members.
So, air box is loose and be juggled around just enough to enable access to the filler. Next to the filler is a bracket on a stud that holds several cables and this needs to be moved temporarily to give better access to the filler.
Suffice to say I've given up for today but know what needs to be done. Meanwhile, the oil continues to drip away underneath. BTW, it was black,(16k on the clock and 8 years old), just like engine oil that's done 10k lol.
Anyway, rant over - sorry.
Edit - in the Fiat Ducato 2nd_X250 manual GB, it also says "unscrew the oil drain plug on the diff cover". Any ideas as I thought the lower gearbox drain would suffice?
Draining the oil is the easy bit. Found the fill plug/hole, it's next to what I think is the reversing light switch. To get access to this hole, it's easier to remove the air box but the air box won't come out up through the top - it's too bloody big unless I start removing top cross members.
So, air box is loose and be juggled around just enough to enable access to the filler. Next to the filler is a bracket on a stud that holds several cables and this needs to be moved temporarily to give better access to the filler.
Suffice to say I've given up for today but know what needs to be done. Meanwhile, the oil continues to drip away underneath. BTW, it was black,(16k on the clock and 8 years old), just like engine oil that's done 10k lol.
Anyway, rant over - sorry.
Edit - in the Fiat Ducato 2nd_X250 manual GB, it also says "unscrew the oil drain plug on the diff cover". Any ideas as I thought the lower gearbox drain would suffice?
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rolopolo
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We had crossmember off (due to me replacing throttle valve while mechanic was doing gear oil and wishbones etc)
Air filter was still a pig to get out, but he managed, abut of twist, turn, tug and brute force lol,
Worth doing though, I change every 100k for longevity
Air filter was still a pig to get out, but he managed, abut of twist, turn, tug and brute force lol,
Worth doing though, I change every 100k for longevity
Well that was two hours of pure fun - NOT !!
Couldn't get any real purchase on the filler hex bolt with the air box loose but still in the way. So off with all the front plastic, all bolts out of top cross member and swung it out enough to remove the air box.
Now we have good access to the filler plug but will it move - not a chance and worried that the hex edges on the plug might start to round off. Sprayed with some **** I had lying around and came back an hour later. Still not moving with a 3/8 ratchet and 8mm hex bit. Out with 2 feet of pipe over the ratchet and eventually the plug came loose.
Looks like the filler plug had thread lock on it (the same as the filler plug) and it must have been fitted by a 7', 20 stone Italian muppet - the manual says 1Nm for the filler plug (no thread lock) and 5Nm for the drain plug plus thread lock.
Poured some old oil back in through the filler hole just to make sure it was the correct hole and oh bliss, it came out of the drain. So that's the right hole then. Lock thread back on the drain plug, 3lt of oil added, filler plug back in (with thread lock - yes, I know, I could have omitted the thread lock but I forgot and got carried away lol), air box back in, plastic on and job done.
Thank god I won't be doing this again for a long, long time but heh, it'll be a piece of **** next time.
Couldn't get any real purchase on the filler hex bolt with the air box loose but still in the way. So off with all the front plastic, all bolts out of top cross member and swung it out enough to remove the air box.
Now we have good access to the filler plug but will it move - not a chance and worried that the hex edges on the plug might start to round off. Sprayed with some **** I had lying around and came back an hour later. Still not moving with a 3/8 ratchet and 8mm hex bit. Out with 2 feet of pipe over the ratchet and eventually the plug came loose.
Looks like the filler plug had thread lock on it (the same as the filler plug) and it must have been fitted by a 7', 20 stone Italian muppet - the manual says 1Nm for the filler plug (no thread lock) and 5Nm for the drain plug plus thread lock.
Poured some old oil back in through the filler hole just to make sure it was the correct hole and oh bliss, it came out of the drain. So that's the right hole then. Lock thread back on the drain plug, 3lt of oil added, filler plug back in (with thread lock - yes, I know, I could have omitted the thread lock but I forgot and got carried away lol), air box back in, plastic on and job done.
Thank god I won't be doing this again for a long, long time but heh, it'll be a piece of **** next time.
So I've just driven 200 miles on mainly A-roads with the fresh gearbox oil and the gear changes are just as previous - sometimes notchy and needing a bit of force to engage, especially when at roundabouts when dropping from 5th to 3rd. Thought the oil change might improve matters but seems not. Oh well, fresh oil's in so one less thing to worry about lol.
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rolopolo
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That will be either the cables or box internals mate,
Mines the same although slightly better due to wrong oil bring out in a year ago. main reason for change is to give longevity to the box,
Cables can seize up on the pivot joints, pop off and lube with thin oil (not wd40,I was told) or due to their placement I reckon water gets in the cables like the handbrake cables, and seize up
Would change them but can't be bothered at no, as still trying to suss out the intermittent hesitation ?
Mines the same although slightly better due to wrong oil bring out in a year ago. main reason for change is to give longevity to the box,
Cables can seize up on the pivot joints, pop off and lube with thin oil (not wd40,I was told) or due to their placement I reckon water gets in the cables like the handbrake cables, and seize up
Would change them but can't be bothered at no, as still trying to suss out the intermittent hesitation ?
