Tuning When to change engine oil?
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Tuning When to change engine oil?
StanZlatan
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I think every car has to have its oil changed between 5k and 10k miles max.
theoneandonly
Established member
Regular oil changes eg annual are probably more important than distance with Motorhomes. (only a guess its a motorhome)
For the price i do mine 12/16 months or so..
With a diesel engine , the more the better . My own van , actually exactly the same as yours , twice a year , and that's with very low annual mileage . Beginning of the year and end , and a new filter at ever change . I do this myself , so basically it's small change to me . I also flush the system as well , using a flushing oil , though some would argue this can be dodgy practice .
Okay , so why do i do it so often ?, well the reason is simple . Oil can become acidic , if left in the sump over long periods idle . During a layup say , this can attack , and damage the engine , including the main bearings . I first learned of this one , with motorcycles about 10 years ago , and to emphasise the point , this article included pictures . I had actually seen the result for myself , on an engine i stripped down , and wondered what had caused the staining . I've simple just carried the practice on . Secondly , change the oil , start the motor , then drop the oil . It will look no better than the stuff you removed in the first place . This is because unburnt particles of the combustion sequence will always find their way into the sump , and this is what turns the oil black . It's also what makes the oil acidic in the first place .
So what of the flushing oil , and why is it dodgy ? . Well this oil literally flushes the system , just as you would give a flask a rinse after you've used it . This removes the residue of all the old oil , cleans the oil galleries , and softens any sludge in the system . I do it ever single time , and because of this my oil actually stays cleaner longer . To prove this point , i recently replaced my sump , as the old one was in a bit of a state oil , certainly no oil painting . I was amazed at the condition of the inside . Not a trace of sludge , and the dregs of the remaining oil was spotless . I mean this sump appeared unmarked , and actually looked new inside . A completely different story on the outside though .
So you may be thinking , if that's the case , why is it dodgy ? . Hmmm , well yes there is a risk , and that's due to the sludge . Remember i said it loosen sludge , that's true , but the problem is , sometime this sludge can be masking , or even preventing a leak . I have been warned several times against this practice , but my feelings are , i'd sooner find and deal with a leak while i have time on my hands , as opposed to having one let go suddenly , and maybe having to have the vehicle recovered .
What i will say in conclusion is , i've never suffered a leak in any of my engines due to this action , two of those vehicles are diesel , and both over twenty years old . But you should be warned of this being a possibility .
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Just for balance, my neighbour, a retired Technical College Lecturer whose brother owned a garage, never changed the oil in the 13 years and 10,000 miles that he had his new citroen petrol car - and it still ran sweet as a nut. (and looked immaculate)
I'm not recommending that.
But I see no need to go to the other extreme or change it more often than the manufacturers recommendation.
I hear BMW are working on an engine that, like the gearbox, never needs an oil change throughout its life.
I'm not recommending that.
But I see no need to go to the other extreme or change it more often than the manufacturers recommendation.
I hear BMW are working on an engine that, like the gearbox, never needs an oil change throughout its life.
Changing oil more often than annually / 10,000 miles is wasteful and not environmentally friendly. Assuming this is a motor home with less than 5000 miles a year and must of that in long drives (>1 hour) I would suggest changing oil and filter every two years is adequate. Flushing oil is not recomended by most modern engine manufacturers. Apart from disloging deposits from where it is doing no harm to block something else, it may not provide enough lubrication to protect the engine. Modern engines have tighter clearances and need the correct oil.
I agree with all of that
But what is the correct oil?
Fiat say 0w30 for the Ducato
But then they have to give a grade for worldwide use
And we live on an island surrounded by water warmed by the gulf stream so never get those extremes of temperature
The handbook with my Citroen Relay (X2/50) included a chart which says 5w40 (which I am using) is OK down to minus 30C
I have scanned the chart in the handbook and attach it here
Attachments
must be an EV
Someone here recommending an oil change every 3 months
Reminds me of Warren Buffet's advice
'Never ask a barber if you need a haircut'
Reminds me of Warren Buffet's advice
'Never ask a barber if you need a haircut'
theoneandonly
Established member
Another true but, is it rediculous story. In five years of owning an Hilman imp with monthly blasts london to lincoln never ever changed the oil just topped it up, gallon a month.
I once blew up a BMV boxer twin bent a rod the big end shells showed excessive acid corrosion (the most expensive cheap bike i bought). If you dont know the history of an engine probably not a daft idea to flush or quick change in succesion to aid the oilways and shift a bit of nastiness. Recently seen a video by the irish DPF guy who changed the engine oil in a Landrover something to see how many changes it took to become cleanish (5)
I once blew up a BMV boxer twin bent a rod the big end shells showed excessive acid corrosion (the most expensive cheap bike i bought). If you dont know the history of an engine probably not a daft idea to flush or quick change in succesion to aid the oilways and shift a bit of nastiness. Recently seen a video by the irish DPF guy who changed the engine oil in a Landrover something to see how many changes it took to become cleanish (5)
A firm I worked for had a fleet of lorries and had their used engine oil analysed.
Only way you can check it - the black stuff is carbon which is a lubricant (graphite) so not harmful
They were able to go long beyond the manufacturers oil change recommendation, and engine wear could be detected by analysing the oil. So you could take the engine out for a rebuild before it turned into something far more expensive.
Only way you can check it - the black stuff is carbon which is a lubricant (graphite) so not harmful
They were able to go long beyond the manufacturers oil change recommendation, and engine wear could be detected by analysing the oil. So you could take the engine out for a rebuild before it turned into something far more expensive.
theoneandonly
Established member
One thing missing From @airwave 's post is the contribution of condensation to sit in oil then help create the acids to cause havoc. This is the main contributor to problems with Motorhomes sat idle all winter and consuming all the additives in the oil. this doesnt happen with high milage or regularly used vehicles as once the engine gets upto temperature the water vapour is driven off reducing the main feed to acid production. (both combustion products and water are required). To reduce this change anually and a 30 mile drive once a month. Ive no evidence to backup distance or time, if woried once a fortnight. If you have spent all winter without using just drain the oil cold do not start the engine and spread the acid around. In some classic car cicles they propose/use a twice a year drain even with no miles.
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