Wax/polish dries instant on bonnet

[AgnessGP]

As per title, I can apply polish and wax anywhere on my car and buff it off with ease. However, on the bonnet, even in small sections it just dries instantly and is extremely hard to buff off. Infact, i left a small dint just trying to scrub it off.

Anyone know why this could be? Does it need claying to get rid of remains from previous coatings?

Many thanks!

Sam

 

[dombooth]

What polish are you using?

Dom

 

[Ninja59]

Polish or Wax?

What products?

Are you trying to do it in direct sunlight?

 

[dave]

is the engine cold?

 

[AgnessGP]

What polish are you using?


Dom

Autoglym super resin polish + Turtle wax deep gloss wax

Polish or Wax?


Are you trying to do it in direct sunlight?

Was cloudy so nope

is the engine cold?

yes hadnt been run that day.

Bonnet is always the same

 

[Ninja59]

How much SRP are you using per panel you only need a small amount worked well.

In regards to the TW how thinly are you applying the layers?

 

[Sweex]

Sounds as though the paint is dry or there is something wrong with the lacquer?
Is it rougher to touch than the rest of the car?

 

[AgnessGP]

How much SRP are you using per panel you only need a small amount worked well.

In regards to the TW how thinly are you applying the layers?

Not very thin, takes long enough to do never mind thin layers. I'm not that enthusiastic about having a decent layer build up.

Sounds as though the paint is dry or there is something wrong with the lacquer?
Is it rougher to touch than the rest of the car?

I dont know mate. Possibly? All I know is I do it the same way as the rest of the car i.e. wax applicator, microfibre to buff. But each time it doesn't buff off and hence remains as a mark.

 

[Ninja59]

There is one issue straight away because you clearly do not understand only a tiny percentage is actually required to be protection when applying wax. Keeping your layers thin makes removal easier applying a thick layer of a paste wax offers no benefit what so ever because you only then have to put more effort in removing it and effectively you are wasting product.

This has nothing to do with layer build up at all. You are better doing two thin coats of wax than one thick one and it takes less time, this purely is technique, way to many people slab it on and hate X and Y wax in reality a majority apply to thickly thinking they have to see the wax curing on the panel this is not the case. Some wax types would completely kill you to remove. For example one wax I own you can get away with just virtually oils when applying, apply a thick coat you will hate the wax. This is not it's fault but down to your technique. Furthermore, two coats of thin wax are recommended for coverage.

For example a few years back this is how thin I managed to get my wax layers when testing. (The wax I used above as an example is actually the orange/yellow one in the glass jar 2nd in from the left).

Yes there is four waxes curing on that bonnet, 2nd in from the left you can just see the faint lines of circles where the wax is curing.

In regards to using SRP use a small amount and work well it has lots of fillers and some corrective ability but not a great deal in so doing this also aids removal.

Basically what I am saying is two thin layers when polishing before waxing is:
a) easier to remove
b) quicker
c) wastes less product

The same things can be also said of the wax. Ultimately it saves you time and money.

 

[dave]

srp you use very little or it takes ages to get off, you dont layer it because its not a wax, its wax you layer

 

[Ninja59]

You can layer SRP to some degree to get a better "corrective" ability from it, for it's layering and cleaning properties it won't really work though.

 

[AgnessGP]

Thanks for that reply, clears up a lot. However, it does not answer why using the same amount, the bonnet is always difficult to remove. It's chipped to hell? Maybe that? Even small amounts just deep to embed and even when I think is buffed correctly, in sunlight the marks are visible again.

I do not have the motivation with this car to bother layering wax now though, so if that's what's required to properly polish and wax my bonnet, ill give it up as a bad job.

 

[Sweex]

Nah, there is something wrong with the paint on the bonnet if its hard to apply polish to mate.
It shouldnt happen. Get the srp on there again use more than normal and work it on a small area for as long as you can and see if that helps?
Has it ever had a respray?
Does the lacquer look cloudy or damaged?
Is it like sand paper to touch?

 

[AgnessGP]

Nah, there is something wrong with the paint on the bonnet if its hard to apply polish to mate.
It shouldnt happen. Get the srp on there again use more than normal and work it on a small area for as long as you can and see if that helps?
Has it ever had a respray?
Does the lacquer look cloudy or damaged?
Is it like sand paper to touch?

Ill have a look later mate as I haven't looked at it with those points in mind.

Hasn't had a repsray though.

Btw, don't take my comment as 'no motivation' that i don't want to correct it, I just no longer have the motivation to layer etc due to the massive amount of swirls etc, it's just not worth it now.

 

[Sweex]

Nah i understand that man but it shouldnt be drying straight away and then being hard to buff if its fine on rest of the car.

 

[Ninja59]

Never use more you simply want to use the minimum amount possible. This sounds weird. But maybe worth stripping it back just on the bonnet get some clay,clay it, then IPA dilute it to around 30% spray on a cloth and just do the bonnet.

When you say "marks" what type of marks?

 

[ChrisUK]

Tried some tar and bug remover followed by "pre-paint" they use in body shops to remove grease? Maybe some other residue you can't see affecting the products.

I had a similar problem to yours on my bonnet which seemed to go away once I used TFR.

 

[AgnessGP]

Nah, there is something wrong with the paint on the bonnet if its hard to apply polish to mate.
It shouldnt happen. Get the srp on there again use more than normal and work it on a small area for as long as you can and see if that helps?
Has it ever had a respray?
Does the lacquer look cloudy or damaged?
Is it like sand paper to touch?

Paint looks fine mate and is just smooth ish to touch. as from the other replies, maybe it is other products affecting it.

Never use more you simply want to use the minimum amount possible. This sounds weird. But maybe worth stripping it back just on the bonnet get some clay,clay it, then IPA dilute it to around 30% spray on a cloth and just do the bonnet.

When you say "marks" what type of marks?

Yeah I think it might be worth doing that. Then at least can rule out other products. And by marks, it's like a shimmer, and the type of marks caused by applying polish and just leaving it rather than buffing.

Tried some tar and bug remover followed by "pre-paint" they use in body shops to remove grease? Maybe some other residue you can't see affecting the products.

I had a similar problem to yours on my bonnet which seemed to go away once I used TFR.

Will try that mate thank you could come in useful for removing some other stuff i've noticed too.

Cheers!!

 

[Ninja59]

What you have is holograms caused probably by over using the amount of polish or not working it well enough.

Do they look like the below?

Then IPA or I know Chris above referred to it as pre paint, quite simply called panel wipe. Panel wipe is a bit stronger, but IPA should do the job in removing some of it if it is very bad though then you will need to repolish it to remove them.

 

[Sweex]

What you have is holograms caused probably by over using the amount of polish or not working it well enough.

Do they look like the below?

Then IPA or I know Chris above referred to it as pre paint, quite simply called panel wipe. Panel wipe is a bit stronger, but IPA should do the job in removing some of it if it is very bad though then you will need to repolish it to remove them.

Did you seriously just say that ipa will remove holograms???