Technical Towbar power wire - where best to run it??

[YorkshireFiat]

Hi all.
Panda MJ 1.3 2008.

I fitted a towbar a while ago but never got around to sorting the electrics until now. I'm not a big fan of car electrics so I asked a local garage to connect the electrics up while it was in having some MOT welding done. (My request was very last-minute).

They said they'd do what they had time for... So far so good... (beautiful bit of welding too)... but they said they didn't have time for the very last bit of the electrics - running the power wire to the battery.

So, my question is basically - what's my best route for running the wire? And where is the best bet for getting it through the bulkhead?

Any tips greatly appreciated!

 

[09 johno]

My question is, what power wire?
a normal trailer wiring is taken from the rear lighting wiring on the car.
are you having a split charger installed or something?

 

[chris3234]

My question is, what power wire?
a normal trailer wiring is taken from the rear lighting wiring on the car.
are you having a split charger installed or something?

You can't take power directly from the current light's on canbus cars as the wires tend to be fairly thin and you can upset the monitering circuit so a realy is needed t
With the trigger wires only being fed by the current light's

 

[koalar]

i assume they have fitted a 7 way bypass relay ???


at the moment I am reluctant to advise anything as getting it wrong would kill the body computer


more information, photos, we are shooting in the dark at the moment.

 

[The Panda Nut]

As has been said. Power for the lights is can bus and the wires are thinner and not suitable for an extra load of c. 30A with all switched on.

Modern cars all need a multiway relay powered connection that draws power straight from the battery and use the cars lighting wires to switch it on and off and supply the trailer.

If you are just using the road lights a 30A cable is required, if you are using a split charger then you need two 30 amp wires to deliver adequate power without overheating.

On the 312 the recommended route through is via a grommet in the near side wheel arch. You have to remove the wheel arch liner to get at it, and inside its really necessary to remove the glove box to see it the car.

These supply lines need to be fused with a 20A fuse and I now always use the LED fuses that light up when the fuse is blown. I also fuse both ends of the wires to be certain that fire risk from short circuits is removed as far as possible. You can guarantee that if a fuse goes it will be at night in the wet as this is when things go wrong. Those light up fuses are worth their weight in gold.

Pics to follow

 

[YorkshireFiat]

i assume they have fitted a 7 way bypass relay ???


at the moment I am reluctant to advise anything as getting it wrong would kill the body computer


more information, photos, we are shooting in the dark at the moment.

Model specific kit. Bypass relay fitted.

 

[YorkshireFiat]

As has been said. Power fr the lights is can bus and the wires are tinner and not suitable for an exta load of c. 30A with all switched on.

Modern cars all need a multiway relay powered connection that draws power straight from the battery and use the cars lighting wires to switch it on and off and supply the trailer.

If you are just using the road lights a 30A cable is required, if you are using a split charger then you need two 30 amp wires to deliver adequate power without overheating.

On the 312 the recommended route through is via a gromet in the near side wheel arch. You have to remove the wheel arch liner to get at it, and inside its really necessary to remove the glove box to see it the car.

These supply lines need to be fused with a 20A fuse and I now always use the LED fuses that light up when the fuse is blown. I also fuse both ends of the wires to be certain that fire risk from short circuits is removed as far as possible. You can guarantee that if a fuse goes it will be at night in the wet as this is when things go wrong. Those light up fuses are worth their weight in gold.

Pics to follow

Many thanks Panda Nut. That sounds irritatingly fiddly! I guess that's why the garage 'didn't have time'. It has a fuse wired-in to the supply wire. I'll check the rating. I've never come across the LED ones; I'll check them out.

 

[koalar]

https://www.pfjones.co.uk/pfjoneswiringkits/19050520PF_FIAT_Panda_02-12.pdf

 

[A3jeroen]

In my 100HP as well as my Abarth I installed a 7 way relay. The powerwire (fused 10 cm from the battery, 15A fuse) runs through the bulkhead through a grommet that lives behind/under the battery, above the accelleratorpedal (LHD).
12N wiring runs through a grommet in the sparewheelwell.

gr J

 

[The Panda Nut]

Pics

I use a set of Black Spur wire feeding rods that make this a simple process. A good length of high tensile wire would also be good as a vehicle to tow wires through the grommets. Pics came from a dedicated wiring kit supplied by

ECS ELECTRONICS 0800 22552327
Monday to Friday 0800-1100 and 1200 - 1700
www.ecs electroniocsuk,co,uk

I cannot recommend them highly enough. Top quality kit, superb price, great back up advice and excellent clear instructions. My kit was swapped from one Panda to another and has been faultless. It was very easy to fit and does rear fog cut off and reversing lights and parking sensors cut off too.

 

[The Panda Nut]

No, its not nearly as bad as it sounds. Glove box is just 3 or 4 screws and it slides out forwards. Wheel arch liner is again 3.4 screws and you can just take out a couple, turn the steering to get clearance and pull the liner away enough to get access. I did take the wheel off and remove the liner which just needs a wiggle and wrestle out. a couple of hours max with lots of coffee breaks. If your keen half an hour. the grommet is an easy find and very easy to get through. Go for it!

 

[stevehebburn]

hi, i have had a towbar with electrics fitted to my 55 plate mj for 3 years. i removed it when i sold the mj & re- fitted it to my recently bought 09 eco. ( i tow a camping trailer) you must use a 7 way bypass relay due to canbus system. i connected relay to wiring just behind n/s rear light. & ran a " jumper" wire inside rear panel to power o/s indicator. run a 10 amp fused cable from relay ,under panel ( side of front seat) to a power source that does not goes off when ignition key is switched off( you need constant live 12v feed to the 7 way relay). otherwise trailer lights will not work . ive never had any problems.

 

[A3jeroen]

My boattrailer has 4 x 5W lights 2 x 21W turnsignals 2 x 21W brakelights and 1 x21 foglight. Makes 125 Watts total. 10 Amp fuse will have difficulties running everything at once.

Hence my choice for 15A.

And taking an extra 15A from anywhere but directly at the battery might overload another system.

gr J

 

[DaveMcT]

My boattrailer has 4 x 5W lights 2 x 21W turnsignals 2 x 21W brakelights and 1 x21 foglight. Makes 125 Watts total. 10 Amp fuse will have difficulties running everything at once.

Hence my choice for 15A.

And taking an extra 15A from anywhere but directly at the battery might overload another system.

gr J

A wire direct from the battery via a separate fuse box is the best and neatest option. You could rune the power wire under the car within the brake pipe trunking and clip it along a brake pipe to the back axle. Alternatively go via the gear shift (bowden) cable grommet and under the carpet.

 

[A3jeroen]

Or as it's supposed to run behind the sidepanel, under the panel over the sill and up behind the (on my LHD) accellerator through the grommet.
Live wires under the carpet are not my cup of tea.

gr J