There seems to be some discrepancy regards engine tech data, I'm trying to find the correct tech data for UK 1500 engine for 1988 SE example
Seeking correct head tightening sequence for the ten 17mm hex head bolts and the four 10mm hex head bolts extended out under the spark plug area of the head
What are the torques and sequence for above said bolts? Can only find the ten bolts on Haynes @ 93Nm, but nothing for the outside 4 bolts
Also, seeking the valve timing & lift of a stock cam as fitted, Haynes valve timing state IN 12/52 EX 52/12 (but think that is for 1300??) with lift @ IN 9.20 EX 9.25. Phil Ward book states, 24/68 68/24 with lift @ IN 9.85 EX 9.90, Owners handbook states, 24/68 64/28 with no lift specs.
After a stuck W.O.T, clutch in which meant the engine revved out for about 2.5 to 3 secs until I killed it on the key and coasted into safe area. re-started and engine now has a tick and rough idle. Performed a compression test with cylinder #4 at 70 psi, the rest between 140 -167, a drop of oil into #4 and result upto 120psi, so indicative of ring issue. A check of valve clearances revealed also in cyl#4 that the exhaust was 0.8mm (should be 0.6 on specs), indicative of a slightly bent valve, maybe it touched on revved out engine due to valve bounce/float at those elevated rpm's
So, engine will be out, looking at getting the parts now and while i'm at it, overhaul the engine, not seeking to doing anything fancy, just a rebuild, don't have the tooling (or inclination) to measure bores or crank pins, so just going with std sized big end and main bearings, new rings, re-hone on stones? once I've read the correct material on How-to-do. Was thinking of changing all the valves and springs?? what do you reckon?? wasting money?? and then correctly shimming up valve clearances. I was thinking of buying a cam vernier wheel, not for a new cam, just to get the std valve timing spot on...hence wanting the correct specs, will post pics once i'm into the job.
I could be persuaded to stick in a fast road cam, I see piper do one, but when engine was running, it ran sweet, I re-jetted the DATR and improved drive-ability immensely. I have x2 DNCF's waiting to be rebuilt so thats for next year, so cam maybe will suit that, but could do with advice if that actually is the way I want to go. I'm not into making a quick car, I just want a little more poke for what a std 1500 block can release.
All comments, advice, opinions appreciated
Seeking correct head tightening sequence for the ten 17mm hex head bolts and the four 10mm hex head bolts extended out under the spark plug area of the head
What are the torques and sequence for above said bolts? Can only find the ten bolts on Haynes @ 93Nm, but nothing for the outside 4 bolts
Also, seeking the valve timing & lift of a stock cam as fitted, Haynes valve timing state IN 12/52 EX 52/12 (but think that is for 1300??) with lift @ IN 9.20 EX 9.25. Phil Ward book states, 24/68 68/24 with lift @ IN 9.85 EX 9.90, Owners handbook states, 24/68 64/28 with no lift specs.
After a stuck W.O.T, clutch in which meant the engine revved out for about 2.5 to 3 secs until I killed it on the key and coasted into safe area. re-started and engine now has a tick and rough idle. Performed a compression test with cylinder #4 at 70 psi, the rest between 140 -167, a drop of oil into #4 and result upto 120psi, so indicative of ring issue. A check of valve clearances revealed also in cyl#4 that the exhaust was 0.8mm (should be 0.6 on specs), indicative of a slightly bent valve, maybe it touched on revved out engine due to valve bounce/float at those elevated rpm's
So, engine will be out, looking at getting the parts now and while i'm at it, overhaul the engine, not seeking to doing anything fancy, just a rebuild, don't have the tooling (or inclination) to measure bores or crank pins, so just going with std sized big end and main bearings, new rings, re-hone on stones? once I've read the correct material on How-to-do. Was thinking of changing all the valves and springs?? what do you reckon?? wasting money?? and then correctly shimming up valve clearances. I was thinking of buying a cam vernier wheel, not for a new cam, just to get the std valve timing spot on...hence wanting the correct specs, will post pics once i'm into the job.
I could be persuaded to stick in a fast road cam, I see piper do one, but when engine was running, it ran sweet, I re-jetted the DATR and improved drive-ability immensely. I have x2 DNCF's waiting to be rebuilt so thats for next year, so cam maybe will suit that, but could do with advice if that actually is the way I want to go. I'm not into making a quick car, I just want a little more poke for what a std 1500 block can release.
All comments, advice, opinions appreciated