Technical Sticky clutch

[heraldsteve]

About 18 months ago the clutch slave cylinder seized on my wifes 2009 1.3 multijet. Symptoms were the clutch pedal wouldn't always spring back up and over several months it seized totally. I replaced the slave cylinder and all has been well until the last few days when it began [FONT=&quot]intermittently[/FONT] sticking down again.


This morning I decided to investigate but, just typically, it wasn't sticking when I started work. I have now removed both the slave and master cylinders but they both seem ok and operate no problem. Just to be on the safe side I have ordered a new master cylinder.


I'm hoping it's not the actual clutch as I don't fancy replacing that too! Has anyone else experienced this kind of issue or have any suggestions?

Also (in case it goes that far) is clutch removable possible on these tiny cars without removing the engine?

 

[John202020]

You checked the actual pedal and no mats obstructing the pedal?

 

[heraldsteve]

Hi John. Checked that but no obstructions and the pedal moves freely and does spring back.

 

[RalphM]

If the slave is a plastic one my moneys on that,
I got some red rubber grease and put some of that in the slave
it's been fine since but I expect I will have to change it at some point.

 

[heraldsteve]

The original slave cylinder was plastic and I replaced that with an alloy one. The master cylinder is plastic so might be the problem. I hope so anyway otherwise I've just wasted £62 on a replacement ?

 

[RalphM]

Mine as a metal master and plastic slave so you are likely right in changing the master.

 

[Ralf S.]

I would fit the new master anyway, if you have it. Sell the old one on eBay, if the new one doesn't stop the problem (i.e. the problem is not the master).

It's unlikely to be the clutch itself, unless the release bearing is wearing through the pressure plate fingers. The clutch would be rattly but stop rattling when you press and hold the pedal.

A clutch change is not an engine-out job.. just the gearbox has to come off and it's not a huuuuuge job, although you probably don't want to do it too often.


Ralf S.

 

[heraldsteve]

Good idea re selling the master if it doesn't fix the problem, thanks.

The clutch doesn't rattle and apart from the stickiness it's working as expected.

I can change the clutch, I've done a few over the years, but I would have preferred not to. Thanks for confirming it can be done in situ though ?

 

[Ralf S.]

It's a small gearbox really.

You just need to get the wheel arch liner out of the way, drain the gear oil and then remove the driveshaft, either from the diff' cover or just remove the inner CV boot and pull the spider out of the cup (although then you have to stick a plastic bag over the end to keep it all clean, and not drop the gearbox onto the cup, in case something fractures. I prefer to remove the whole driveshaft/cup from the gearbox).

The hydraulics may not want to come apart but the slave is on top of the gearbox (external) so you could leave it.. although my OCD would make me change it at the same time, so I don't have to get down there again for a very long time..


Ralf S.

 

[heraldsteve]

Thank you for the detail. It all sounds pretty standard stuff for front wheel drive, but the confirmation is very welcome ?

 

[RalphM]

I Would try the cylinder first and dribble a bit of 3 in 1 round the bush were the
Clutch shaft goes in to the bell housing

 

[GeoBog]

It's very common on these cars for the cylinders to fail one after the other. Usually is best to replace them both and then bleed the system. I had same issue on wife's 500 twinair with sticky clutch pedal after 20 minutes of driving. Replaced the master initially which cured the issue for a few weeks then one day car left wife stranded in the middle of a bit intersection with the clutch stuck to the floor. I replaced the slave as well and no issues since. Fiat were asking £500 for a new clutch to fix this so beware of dealers not having a clue.