Hi does anybody know if the 126 column shaft splines match the splines
match the splines on the 500 steering column.I know on the 500 the steering box end box end is different to the column end. I have not quite finished but it looks like the 126 shaft on its own may fit .It looks to me in you pics the shaft has
been extended .I cant say for sure so I will have a look tomorrow and take
some pics.
Bryan
126 and 500 splines are different. I bought a 126 steering box and fitted it. When I came to fit the steering column I noticed the difference. Had to remove the 126 box and dismantle it and fit my old 500 shaft
Yes My old 500 shaft has course spline for the steering box end and a finer
one for the spline under the steering wheel. What I was realy askinig are the
splines on the 126 shaft which are the same both ends compatible with my 500 column. (Under the steering wheel )
I have now found that a 126 column with its two U/J s fits. A little tight as I had to take the steering wheel off ,but it gave me a chance to fit the column on whilst on the bench. I think looking at your pics it just shows the standard upper column mount .
When I get a patch lead from my phone to my laptop I will upload pics.
I have finished the fitting of the rack just to tidy up..I am going to road test
tomorrow and if its ok I will post how I did it.
I had the car jacked up at a very steep angle at the front and I found a puddle of gearbox oil on the floor. doe's this mean I may have a leaky driveshaft seal .What are your thoughts ?
Ok I have now finished and tested the new rack and what a difference after
worn steering box.
Now how to fit .Mine is right hand drive so any pictures you will have to adjust yourself. Before you start use at least three or more axle stands and when drilling underneath wear eye protection.This is not a small undertaking but if you take your time it is quite easy
Remove all old steering gear.I don't know if you are going to use a ready made
pair of mounts I purchased mine fron a German supplier.
The centre of your rack between the mounts is centre that should be used to
mount on the body.Mark the centre of the body underneath by measuring
between yor inner arches Mine was 67.5cm.Put your brackets on the rack and trial fit under the car.The rack should be mounted so the bottom of the clamp is 15mm above the y shaped stengthening piece. (Just have the spigot shaft pointing down for nw.) Now mark the holes to drill or mark with a marker pen around the bracket, Now when drilling holes you must only drill above the weld line on the bulkhead as this is a hollow section.Cut any existing box mounts that get in your way. Drill the holes that you can above the weld line.I also had to cut the new mount at the top to fdt.You can drill small pilot holes and enlarge in car.I managed to borrow an angled driver but they sell attatchments on ebay under a tenner.Now fit you rack with the spigot still down. To drill the hole for it was a bit of guesswork I just envisaged the angle it should be and marked the spot .Drill a pilot hole and check with a piece of thin rod its ok.Now making the slot for it is a bit tricky.I drilled two 15 mm hole for the top and bottom of the slot.Now I used an angle grinder to join them up its a bit tricky and you must be careful.Now put your spigot shaft through .Measure between the wasted part between the two wasted sections on the spigot and your steering wheel spigot.That now is the length of shaft you need .When I purchased my126 rack on ebay I got the column with it.I found it had the correct splines at both ends but it was a bit to long.I was able to fit it by taking off the wheel and mount elogating the mount holes and putting on the splines before mounting.It looks like about 25mm to long so I will have to shorten it some time. I am going to use a piece of good tube over the join put a small good bolts or may be a roll pins the weld together.This must be done by a good competant welder !I think there is no need for a support bracket as the angle is not to bad its up to you I havent bothered.I used M8 bolts and welded the brackets on When you are using a grinder or welder you must have someone in the car watching I am on my own but I had a plumbers mat to put over in the car.You now have to centre the rack and take off the steering wheel and refit at the correct place.You now need to track the front wheels. I used a long piece of straight wood from front to rear wheels to centre then gave it a small amount of to in.you must not have any toe out..Before you weld the brackets on and they have a least 4 bolts each take out on the road.OH what a difference from the old steering.I did it because the RHD boxes are very expensive and rare.
I forgot to mention you now have to fit a rubber gasket around the shaft to body'
If you think I have forgotten anything or you need help let me know.
I will put up some pics soon.
Bryan
Thank you Bryan---very informative and instructive. Makes me think that even I can do it at some time! All we have to sort out now is how to replace the last weak point on the front suspension--the king-pins. I have often wondered if there is something out there that can be used instead, a bit like the Triumph Herald front uprights that at one time every 'special' maker (and not a few manufacturers) used.
I always look at the alternatives having rebuilt six cars from bits.I would try and do things without reverting to kits. It may take me a little longer but I enjoy the challenge. I always come to the conclusion that if somebody else has done it I should be able todo it . So maybe brakes or front suspesion next. I would realy like to alter the rear but that looks harder .Depends how bored I get.
I took the Fiat out for a good spin today .The brakes which are all new seem to
be getting better thank god but I would advise anyone thinking of changing to
a steering rack to get it done as it transforms the driving. I must admit I only drove mine with
a worn rack but I couldn't believe the difference. .
Abarth had a go at improving the rear suspension---see if you can find any pictures of the "Abarth 1000tc radiale tubolare" (the group 5 cars). In this model they tried to make the rear more 'stable' angle-wise, but were restricted by having to use the original suspension location points. There is an Italian u-tube film where the cat builder has made the most amazing double wish-bone front suspension, and he has also made a form of 'tubolare. I will try and find the film, although I have mentioned it previously on the forum.
If you look at Z cars 2ltr subaru conversion you can see how they constructed a new swing arm setup using existing front swing arm suspension mounting points. They upgraded the drive shafts and couplings which would not be required for a standard engine so it could be possible to use the existing mounting plate from an old 500 swing arm. Just a thought.
Look on the "Problem with front suspension bush" page by Peter (in Nairn). I have mentioned a u-tube film to show amethod of getting around the bush problem, although it is a MITE OTT!. Ther are also some shots of the car's rear suspension which is similar to the Abarth 'Tuborlare' system--it might be of helm]p to you.