Technical Speedometer not working 2008 multijet :(

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Technical Speedometer not working 2008 multijet :(

Ducatiman

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I've had a trawl through the previous posts before asking about this but nothing seems to fit......

I recently removed the nearside front wheel on my 2008 Multijet motorhome so that I could fit a new outer CV boot retaining clip. All went to plan but when I then drove the van I'm getting no speedometer reading.

The odd thing is that the odometer is working as is the rev counter.

If the speedometer runs from the abs sensor/s on this model I'm not sure how the odometer is working while the speedometer isn't. I can imagine that the rev counter runs from an engine sensor input but can't see why the speedometer and odometer would have separate feeds??

I'm getting no ABS warning light so can't believe I have dislodged the ABS connection.

Any ideas folks???
 
Hmmm, 115 views to date with no suggestions, looks like this could be a tricky one then! :) :)
 
Hmmm, 115 views to date with no suggestions, looks like this could be a tricky one then! :) :)



Fault finding in eLearn includes checking connections between the ABS and BCM which suggests that the signal is taken from wheel sensor(s).


Download a copy from this site and you will have access to the wiring diagrams, functional description and fault finding procedure.
 
The speed signal is sent from pin 23 of the ABS Unit to pin 10 of the body computer
 

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Thanks guys, I'm trying to download the X250 elearn manual but some of the sections don't seem to download correctly. Anyone else had this problem? I've got a loose wire hanging from the lower strut but not sure where the connector fits??
 
I've not downloaded this particular elearn but with some of the others I've had one of the rar files - usually the last one - download incompletely (file smaller than the size given on the forum), then the extraction fails. Downloading a second time has always worked though. Are you still having issues? My wi-fi speed is really slow at the moment but I could try later to see if there is a problem with the files on the server.

My only thought for the loose connector is that it might be the pad wear indicator wire. If so it would normally connect to a wire coming from one of the brake pads. Does it look anything like the one in the picture on this thread -

http://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk...s/Ducato-front-brake-pad-warning-light/49065/

If not could you post a picture of it?
 
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I've not downloaded this particular elearn but with some of the others I've had one of the rar files - usually the last one - download incompletely (file smaller than the size given on the forum), then the extraction fails. Downloading a second time has always worked though. Are you still having issues? My wi-fi speed is really slow at the moment but I could try later to see if there is a problem with the files on the server.

My only thought for the loose connector is that it might be the pad wear indicator wire. If so it would normally connect to a wire coming from one of the brake pads. Does it look anything like the one in the picture on this thread -

http://forums.outandaboutlive.co.uk...s/Ducato-front-brake-pad-warning-light/49065/

If not could you post a picture of it?

Many thanks for that info!

That is the connector I can see hanging loose but nothing on the brake pad to connect it to (probably why it is cable tied out of the way) so that isn't the speedo problem.

I can't understand why there is no ABS warning light if the ABS isn't working?

It also seems strange that the odometer works fine but the speedometer doesn't even flicker; you'd have thought they would both get their input signal from the same source??

I will have another go at the downloads later but it only lets me do section 1 and 3 at the moment. Maybe I should look for another source for the manual, it would be handy as I do try to fix the problems that occur myself.
 
I can't understand why there is no ABS warning light if the ABS isn't working?

It also seems strange that the odometer works fine but the speedometer doesn't even flicker; you'd have thought they would both get their input signal from the same source??

Difficult to know where the problem is .... agree with chris3234 - think you need to get MES on the case.

I will have another go at the downloads later but it only lets me do section 1 and 3 at the moment. Maybe I should look for another source for the manual, it would be handy as I do try to fix the problems that occur myself.

I tested the X250 elearn download and it worked for me - the site files are ok. There is an alternative download here - link about halfway down the page to a single zip file (X250.zip).
 
Update....I drove the vehicle to Shropshire this weekend, using the satnav as a speedometer, not a flicker from the speedometer all the way there.

On the way back I put my foot down a bit on the M40 and happened to notice the speedometer gradually start to move, at first it was saying 20mph when the satnav said 60 but it gradually improved and by the time I got home it was working as it should again!

I hope it will continue to function as I've now got a problem with the car, which has an eML showing.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I'm wondering if some of the grease from the CV boot repair might have got on a sensor then somehow cleared after a good few miles of driving?
 
Grease wouldn't stop it working unless there were filings in it but then the abs would also either turn on or error. Could be the heat driving moisture out of the connectors perhaps
 
It stopped working again so I stripped out the instrument panel and gave the needle a nudge back and forth to get it freed off, it worked fine after that for many miles so I guess the little motor that moves the needle was a bit stuck? I'm guessing it is some sort of stepper motor that gets a signal from the ABS system via the ECU?

After the lockdowns I started the van again and now have no speedo, tacho, fuel gauge or temperature gauge so it must be something common to all of them.

Time for another investigation! The heater coil light now comes on and stays on for around 30 seconds too.
 
Just stripped out the instrument panel, gave all four analogue gauge needles a good working backwards and forwards and hey presto! All working again!!

I wonder just how many people have been ripped off for a new ECU when they have had this issue??

Simple to access, just 4 screws to take out using a 25 size Torx driver, the first two aren't that obvious, one up under the upper corner of each side of the panel cover.

Once they are removed lift the grey panel from the back (2 spring clips there so you need to pull on it a bit)

That leaves the instrument cluster held in by 2 more screws at the rear of the panel vertically positioned into the mounting plate. Take those out then disconnect the multi way connector.

You now need to carefully pry apart the snap fittings around the edge of the instrument cover the when the covers are in two pieces lift out the centre piece.

The needles are now accessible so gently give them a wiggle through the normal operating range, leaving them roughly where they should be with ignition switched off.

Plug it back in and give it a try before putting it all back together in reverse order to the dismantling process.
 
Just stripped out the instrument panel, gave all four analogue gauge needles a good working backwards and forwards and hey presto! All working again!!

I wonder just how many people have been ripped off for a new ECU when they have had this issue??

Simple to access, just 4 screws to take out using a 25 size Torx driver, the first two aren't that obvious, one up under the upper corner of each side of the panel cover.

Once they are removed lift the grey panel from the back (2 spring clips there so you need to pull on it a bit)

That leaves the instrument cluster held in by 2 more screws at the rear of the panel vertically positioned into the mounting plate. Take those out then disconnect the multi way connector.

You now need to carefully pry apart the snap fittings around the edge of the instrument cover the when the covers are in two pieces lift out the centre piece.

The needles are now accessible so gently give them a wiggle through the normal operating range, leaving them roughly where they should be with ignition switched off.

Plug it back in and give it a try before putting it all back together in reverse order to the dismantling process.
Hi, followed Ducatiman post and fantastic.........clocks are working again on my 2008 Ducato. Excellent advice.
 
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