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My stock topped up again today. Part for all this years servicing delivered in less than 24 hours again at a very considerable saving. ALl the bits for the TA from FCA / Mopar and most of the rest from Magneti Marelli - suitably Italian. I have a TA Marelli oil filter to compare with the FCA one.
View attachment 435725
Given Magneti Marelli was part of Fiat up until 2018 they should be as good as OEM
 
This is all on a new to us 500C that I got for my kids to learn to drive in.

Cambelt change (done) gearbox out (done) replacement of gearbox input bearing, seal and clutch, as the gearbox oil has been leaking out of the input seal and coated the clutch with a thin film of oil and bu##ered it. I'm just about to take the gearbox apart- wish me luck!
 
I'm just about to take the gearbox apart- wish me luck!
Somewhere in the forum is a very good description/guide as to how to change ths input shaft bearing without completely dismantling the gearbox. Maybe someone can point you in the right direction to find it. It's a few years ago that it was posted.
 
@koalar

1.2 500c
Could it have been you who posted about input shaft bearing replace without dismantling gearbox fully?
Cheers J
 
Oh, here we go, I found it!
Read down the page for illustrations.
 
That is an excellent guide

The original bearing is a specialised
It has a Glass Fibre Reinforced Polyamide Cage with a reinforcing support ring on one side. It is an open bearing ignore the comments on rubber seals and removing one of them. It rubbish, Also avoid ebay sellers selling seal bearing ing with one side removed at inflated prices

The proper bearing is 6204.A.G15J30

If the bearing is still complete, it will pull off with a standard bearing puller

If you just have the inner race left on the shaft, there no room to get a puller in and it's down to knocking it off with a hammer and chisel

@rmjbn1 fitted a cheaper but good quality metal cage bearing without any problems




DD3049E7-2F12-46AE-80C3-D08BEA67D1A4.jpeg


Missing from the guide is the fact the bearing isn't all the way onto the shaft, measure yours before pulling the old on off,

Also shows its impossible to get a standard bearing puller on if the bearing has already fallen apart
 
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That is an excellent guide

The original bearing is a specialised
It has a Glass Fibre Reinforced Polyamide Cage with a reinforcing support ring on one side. It is an open bearing ignore the comments on rubber seals and removing one of them. It rubbish, Also avoid ebay sellers selling seal bearing ing with one side removed at inflated prices

The proper bearing is 6204.A.G15J30

If the bearing is still complete, it will pull off with a standard beating puller

If you just have the inner race left on the shaft, there no room to get a puller in and it's down to knocking it off with a hammer and chisel

@rmjbn1 fitted a cheaper but good quality metal cage bearing without any problems




View attachment 437160

Missing from the guide is the fact the bearing isn't all the way onto the shaft, measure yours before pulling the old on off,

Also shows its impossible to get a standard bearing puller on if the bearing has already fallen apart
That's interesting. Any idea what determines the gap size?
 
I also followed Mr. Wild's guide as linked above to do the input shaft bearing and seal on our 1.2 Panda.

In our case, the ball bearings were all still present, but the cage had completely gone.

I measured the gap to the cog behind the bearing at 25 thou and tapped the new bearing down to the same gap.

I used an SKF Explorer 6204 C3 bearing, same as Mr. Wild, and some others specified this.

I see some chat on that thread (since I did mine) suggesting an open type roller bearing instead - to avoid the cage disintegrating?
 

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That's interesting. Any idea what determines the gap size?
When they are professionally being rebuilt they are hammered on with a special tool to set the gap

Screenshot_20240126_172929.jpg


I am not buying a tool just to do a couple of gearboxs

I don't think it's super critical as the preload is set via shims at the other end, but jamming it tight against the gear will effect oil flow and leave the bearing less supported

It's very easy to set with some feeler gauges
 
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