Technical Rear wheel bearing nut torque setting.

[capt biggles]

Hi there.

My rear hub bearing is rumbling, so I have taken them both off today and checked them over, greased and refitted them. Should they just be done up F. tight, or should they be torqued to a specific setting please?

I have bought a CD manual off eBay, but my Mac won't read it, as it is in PC format.

Also, as a side thought. My 1999 and 2001 Multiplas were both drum rear brake, the 2003 one is disc. This one is a 2004 model, but has drums on the rear. Seems a bit odd to me. Any ideas, anyone?

Cheers,

Capt Biggles

 

[AaronG]

I did my rear hub last week, same problem with a grumbling bearing. I had to use a mighty big pipe over the ratchet handle to loosen mine, and thats how I tightened it again. Supposedly its to be tightened to 280nm or so I read somewhere.

Mine was extremely easy to fit, drum slid off with no issues, and the bearing slid off the stub axle without leaving the Inner race on. No special tools needed apart from a big pipe to slacken the hub nut!!

 

[capt biggles]

One hub came off of mine complete, the other needed a puller and left the inner race in place. The fact that they are two ball races together in the hub is what made me think that they should be torqued up to a particular figure to pre-load them to a set tolerance. However, I did them up with the same technique that I undid them with. Socket on a strongarm, with me standing on the end.

The noise is less now, but still there, so I shall have to replace one set at least anyway.

 

[slobo]

They went to rear disc for a short period then reverted to drums.

I have a 2004 with rear drums.

 

[BikeDoc]

. . . they are two ball races together in the hub is what made me think that they should be torqued up to a particular figure to pre-load them to a set tolerance . . .

The design is such that the amount you load them doesn't alter the load on the actual bearings.
The inner races contact each other, so you're just loading up what is, in effect, a solid lump of steel.
The tolerance (as you put it) is in the bearing races themselves.

As for the Drum/Disc question, I'll take Drums every time (on the rear).
The hydraulic/mechanical handbrake caliper is the spawn of the devil, adequate when new, but after a few thousand miles . . . :bang:

 

[capt biggles]

Thanks for that, guys. I feel a lot happier now. I have ordered a replacement hub, complete with bearings off eBay for £25 including postage. Cheap as chips.

 

[widemouthfrog]

As BD says, the drum seat up is far better than the discs on the rear. The rear discs are also famous for letting the car roll away once it's been parked up for a while and the discs/pads have cooled down/contracted

Fiat dealers offer(ed) a conversion for the rear disc models, to put the drum set up on in their place

 

[BikeDoc]

Can't beat the car industry for giving us 'improvements' that turn out not to be in the long run

 

[MarkX]

Hi Folks,

My '01 Multipla has been making a loud rumbling noise. The Fiat garage said the rear wheel bearing is kernackered.

How easy a job is it for an amateur back street mechanic like me?
Are there any destructions out there? Or can someone give me the rough steps?
Any special tools needed?

RSVP,

Mark

 

[boilermansab]

Armed with a puller and blow torch and as long as the drum comes of easy enough then its a piece of ****

 

[widemouthfrog]

Very straightforward job. It's a good one for 'budding mechanics' to cut their teeth on, but I think you've already cut several teeth on your clutch .

When I did mine earlier in the year, I took some photos as I went & jotted some notes. If you can hang on until the weekend, I'll put a 'How To' together.

 

[MarkX]

Very straightforward job. It's a good one for 'budding mechanics' to cut their teeth on, but I think you've already cut several teeth on your clutch

Good stuff widemouthfrog. Think I'll 'av a go. Cheapest labour quote Today was £30, which is good, but not as good as £0 for my labour!!

Fiat quoted me £105 parts and labour.

Bearing kit, local partstealer: £33, which the parts guy said came with a (quote) "sh*t shield". Apparently it's German for: "sh*t shield". Who needs Wikipedia?

When I did mine earlier in the year, I took some photos as I went & jotted some notes. If you can hang on until the weekend, I'll put a 'How To' together.

Very grateful, but not to worry, I've just found a pdf article at https://sites.google.com/site/fiatmultipla/Home/repairs with pics.

https://sites.google.com/site/fiatm...heelBearingReplacement.pdf?attredirects=0&d=1

If you think there's anything different I should know, pls let me know.

If my clutch change epic is anything to go by, the new bearing should only take about 3 weeks! I'll try not to nearly kill myself, or break my finger (when the flywheel dropped on it) this time...

Wonder if I'll need a puller?

Mark

 

[widemouthfrog]

A pair of stout (motorbike) tyre levers or large flat bladed screwdrivers are what's needed. For the bearings themselves, have a look on Shop4Parts or CarParts4Less. They do combined bearings/flanges which make the job a lot easier & don't cost much more (in fact, less than the figure you've given). If you've got ABS though, make sure you buy the type with the ABS magnetic ring built in.

Edit: Something like this:
http://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Details&ProdID=1285&sku=35999

 

[MarkX]

They do combined bearings/flanges which make the job a lot easier & don't cost much more (in fact, less than the figure you've given). If you've got ABS though, make sure you buy the type with the ABS magnetic ring built in.

Cheers. Will check those details at the partstealers tomoz. Bearing is pretty bad, getting worse/noisier all the time, so this time I need a quick local part and quick fix, to get car safe asap.

Mark

 

[MarkX]

Armed with a puller and blow torch and as long as the drum comes of easy enough then its a piece of ****

Great. That's what I like to hear. However... no puller or blow torch... yet! See if screwdrivers/tyre levers work.

Mark

 

[MarkX]

Hello,

Got my new wheel bearing kit Today, complete with hub, new nut, and dust cover. Priced (only) a puller: £20. Will buy if necessary, but hope I don't need it. Will have a go tomorrow, weather permitting.

Mark

PS. I hope Capt. Biggles doesn't think I'm highjacking his thread...

 

[Peter Pick-Up]

It's not a bad idea to use some drops of loktite threadlocker on the nut, before mounting, just in case....

 

[MarkX]

OK Peter Pickup, will consider, however I note that the new hub nut is pinched in in three places on the inside of the thread presumably to stop the nut undoing.

Also... when removing the brake drum:

- In the PDF instructions in the link above, the guy mentions using two bolts to push the brake drum away from the bearing hub if the brake drum is tight to get off. Is it OK to do this? :

If the drum has not been off for a while, the shoes will have worn into the drum and it may need a lot of ‘persuasion’ to come off. The auto-adjusters cannot be backed off while the drum is still fitted. To force it off, rotate the drum a bit relative to the hub, fit two bolts into the threaded holes where the locating pegs went and screw them in evenly.

- Also, to help refitting of the brake drum, how do I back off the auto-adjusters to move the brake shoes away from the brake drum? Can someone point out where the auto-adjusters are pls?

Mark

 

[widemouthfrog]

Yes, it's a good idea - as long as you can rotate the drum relative to the hub a little first. Then the ends of the bolts will push against a flat surface. I didn't do this - just used the tyre levers inserted between the back edge of the drum and the brake backplate, then gently levered it all round until the drum came off. If there's a significant lip on your drums though, you'll struggle doing it this way.

The auto adjusters are sat between the brake shoes, just below the brake cylinder. Shown nicely (though everything's covered in oil, which it shouldn't be) in fiaty's photo in this thread, immediately below the retracting spring:
https://www.fiatforum.com/multipla/319430-leaking-brake-oil-left-rear-wheel.html

 

[MarkX]

PS. Been busy putting together a DIY hub puller Today, involving a piece of flat bar with a hole drilled in the middle (thanks to local welding shop), a big long bolt and nut, 4 smaller M8 bolts and nuts, and - because I haven't thrown it out yet - an old front brake disc. Total cost: £2-00.

But will it work?