Hang on
I've not done rear bearings but had a few front hub nuts off before now.
It's not really a job for the novice with a few spanners kicking round.
To remove the bearing you'll need a good breaker bar and large socket - around 30 - 36mm I guess.
Looking at mine I guess you'll need to remove the hub nut cover to expose the nut - not sure if that’s a wheel off job for access.
Once you can see the hub nut and get a socket on it, you'll need to undo it. It's extremely tight and probably staked in too. Try and un stake the nut - center punch may do it.
Now this is important (if you get this far) Don't even think of trying to crack the hub nut while on axle stands - at best you'll pull the car off the stand - as worst you'll crush or brake bones.
You need the car on the ground, engine running with someone stood on the foot brake, and hand brake pulled on tight. Now try and crack the nut - not sure if they are handed or shoes off - the elearn suggests not.
You may need a bearing puller to remove the hub assy? Don’t think it will fall off like the e-learn suggests.
Not sure how to slide new hub assy on, but it's important to torque the nut up to the correct tightness - e-learn suggests 28 daNm (280 Nm) but there are known issues with old copies.
I would do the final torque (past 90mn I suppose) with wheel on and car on grount - brakes on tight - you'll need the wheel on to stake the new hub nut too - or you get too much damping when trying to stake.
Too loose hub nut and it can fall off later. too tight and the bearing can get crushed - and may lock up as you are moving. Last thing you want is to loose a rear wheel at speed, but it has happened to another FF member a few years back after a garage did this very job for her. Her car was completely written off.
So that's about £100 tooling plus parts your liable if it goes wrong
you’ll probably need to go to ¾ inch torque wrench to go so high and they are not cheep – I got one for my first clutch job and have probably used it 5 times but it’s a heck of a tool.