I had a productive day today, the black cinq has been sitting around for ages with a load of work completed, but the rear suspension and brakes were untouched.
I did a bit of searching on here and the on-dit on here is that Goodridge rear hoses are a swine to fit because the tank needs to come off. So I declared today polybush and Goodridge hose day.
I started by removing the rear suspension arm, easy enough with the car up on axle stands. I simply placed the trolley jack under the suspension arm to stop the road spring from making a bid for freedom. Decide if you want to save the brake hose and the handbrake cable. I didn't and just cut them in half. Otherwise undo them now (brake hose on top of the arm). If you dangle a suspension arm from the brake hose you'll ruin it.
Then remove the nuts from the bolts through the two suspension bushes. Leave the bolts in place for the moment.
Then remove the lower shock absorber bolt. REMEMBER, ITS THE SHOCK KEEPING THE SPRING COMPRESSED! if you remove it without a trolley jack under the arm you will end up with a spring in your face and it'll sting almost as much as shaving rash!
The nuts for the shock absorber bolts are welded to the brackets, so you can just unbolt them. Then stand well back and lower the jack, this will de-compress the spring.
Pull the two bolts out and you are left holding the arm. I used a piece of threaded rod to pull the rubber centre out of the suspension bush. No heat, no messing. You need a piece of tubing with a big enough diameter to take the centre, put a piece of threaded rod through and lock two nuts together on one side. Then wind the other nut and it'll force the rubber out of the bush and into the tube. Then put a slit in the sleeve in the arm with a hacksaw, be gentle, cuts in the arm are stress raisers and weaken it.
Once its cut it'll tap out, I used a socket as a drift.
The Powerflex bush is easy to fit, it needs little more than hand pressure.
I then turned my attention to the goodridge hoses. I don't know why people remove the tank, it isn't necessary. Cut the old hose so ony the metal pice remains on the bracket in the body. You need a deep 17mm socket and an 11mm flare nut spanner. Use Something like a bent screwdriver the remove the C clip holding the brake hose to the bracket on the bodywork. You'll see it has a tag bent at 90 degrees, lever between that and the union and it will slide out. It mag be easier with the spanner already on the union. Then pull the brake line down slightly, the 17mm end will now turn, there are raised parts on the bracket stopping it from turning with the C clip in place. Use a deep a socket with a short extension and turn the remainder of the hose. KEEP THE UNION STILL WITH THE SPANNER. If you twist the metal brake pipe its scrap.
Now install the new hose, again tighten up the union, you'll now need a 17mm spanner. The only slightly tricky bit is getting the flats in the right place so you can put he C clip back.
Now put back the Arm, and install the other end of the hose on the arm, this is easily accesible so all you do is hold the hose with the spanner and tighten the union. Fuel tank completely undisturbed.
I did a bit of searching on here and the on-dit on here is that Goodridge rear hoses are a swine to fit because the tank needs to come off. So I declared today polybush and Goodridge hose day.
I started by removing the rear suspension arm, easy enough with the car up on axle stands. I simply placed the trolley jack under the suspension arm to stop the road spring from making a bid for freedom. Decide if you want to save the brake hose and the handbrake cable. I didn't and just cut them in half. Otherwise undo them now (brake hose on top of the arm). If you dangle a suspension arm from the brake hose you'll ruin it.
Then remove the nuts from the bolts through the two suspension bushes. Leave the bolts in place for the moment.
Then remove the lower shock absorber bolt. REMEMBER, ITS THE SHOCK KEEPING THE SPRING COMPRESSED! if you remove it without a trolley jack under the arm you will end up with a spring in your face and it'll sting almost as much as shaving rash!
The nuts for the shock absorber bolts are welded to the brackets, so you can just unbolt them. Then stand well back and lower the jack, this will de-compress the spring.
Pull the two bolts out and you are left holding the arm. I used a piece of threaded rod to pull the rubber centre out of the suspension bush. No heat, no messing. You need a piece of tubing with a big enough diameter to take the centre, put a piece of threaded rod through and lock two nuts together on one side. Then wind the other nut and it'll force the rubber out of the bush and into the tube. Then put a slit in the sleeve in the arm with a hacksaw, be gentle, cuts in the arm are stress raisers and weaken it.
Once its cut it'll tap out, I used a socket as a drift.
The Powerflex bush is easy to fit, it needs little more than hand pressure.
I then turned my attention to the goodridge hoses. I don't know why people remove the tank, it isn't necessary. Cut the old hose so ony the metal pice remains on the bracket in the body. You need a deep 17mm socket and an 11mm flare nut spanner. Use Something like a bent screwdriver the remove the C clip holding the brake hose to the bracket on the bodywork. You'll see it has a tag bent at 90 degrees, lever between that and the union and it will slide out. It mag be easier with the spanner already on the union. Then pull the brake line down slightly, the 17mm end will now turn, there are raised parts on the bracket stopping it from turning with the C clip in place. Use a deep a socket with a short extension and turn the remainder of the hose. KEEP THE UNION STILL WITH THE SPANNER. If you twist the metal brake pipe its scrap.
Now install the new hose, again tighten up the union, you'll now need a 17mm spanner. The only slightly tricky bit is getting the flats in the right place so you can put he C clip back.
Now put back the Arm, and install the other end of the hose on the arm, this is easily accesible so all you do is hold the hose with the spanner and tighten the union. Fuel tank completely undisturbed.
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