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Technical posh petrol killed my car :(

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Technical posh petrol killed my car :(

Tony123

Tony123

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After battlingwith my car over past few weeks I finally got it 98% right :)
Think it needs re-mapping and needs a new exhaust,
I decided to fill it with the posh petrol too see how it would run, and the car has spat its dummy out and doesn like it.
Idles rough and and struggling getting up to speed.
Any ideas why this has happened ?
 
If you are sure its fuel related, it might have loosened gunk from fuel system and blocked injectors. Also check the fuel pump is pumping and fuel tank vent pipe is clear.

Mine seriously prefers posh petrol & drives like the brakes are rubbing on vanilla unleaded.
 
After I was driving it started to run a little better, so maybe it has lifted some crap from tank, i will check my injectors and the fuel pump.
On the way home i could feel it wanting to pull away but it couldnt, how much do remaps cost ? I think the revs between 3500 and 4000 is throwing too much fuel in because it hesitates but after 4000 revs its like **** off a shovel :)
 
Replace fuel filter and make sure the fuel pump is running properly. You could also disconnect both ends of fuel lines and blow through with compressed air, but the filter should keep them clean. Also be sure the vent is clear. If its blocked the effect will be more obvious on a full tank.

Injectors are easy to clean remove the fuel rail and pop them out. The power connectors have spring clips you need a medium jeweller's screwdriver to get under and lift the clips.

Dont assume its not electrical. The plug top coils (on many 16V engines) don't last for ever and the coil problems on other versions are well known.

Get it remapped when you have the exhaust. Generic versions are about £250. Rolling road setups could be double that.
 
WhiteSei said:
Replace fuel filter and make sure the fuel pump is running properly. You could also disconnect both ends of fuel lines and blow through with compressed air, but the filter should keep them clean. Also be sure the vent is clear. If its blocked the effect will be more obvious on a full tank.

Injectors are easy to clean remove the fuel rail and pop them out. The power connectors have spring clips you need a medium jeweller's screwdriver to get under and lift the clips.

Dont assume its not electrical. The plug top coils (on many 16V engines) don't last for ever and the coil problems on other versions are well known.

Get it remapped when you have the exhaust. Generic versions are about £250. Rolling road setups could be double that.
Click to expand...

Didn't know the filter coukd be replaced, is this simple and cheap to do ?
I'll do what I can tonight (hope the rain holds off)
I wouldn't mind changing all the coils but its 30quid a pop.
 
Im not certain it can be changed sorry my words in #4 suggest otherwise. Take out the pump from top of tank under back seat and have a look.

If you have the plugtop coils I'd be suspecting one of them. If you can see the individual manifold pipes see if one is cool when you first start the engine. Or pull the plugs and see if one is wet.
 
WhiteSei said:
Im not certain it can be changed sorry my words in #4 suggest otherwise. Take out the pump from top of tank under back seat and have a look.

If you have the plugtop coils I'd be suspecting one of them. If you can see the individual manifold pipes see if one is cool when you first start the engine. Or pull the plugs and see if one is wet.
Click to expand...


I originally thought it was cyclinder one that was faulty, then later realised I had the wrong injector in my car, I dont know if that may have damaged something.

Is there such thing as factory reset the ecu ?
Im guessing this must be down to a not enoigh fuel or dirty lines/injectors as it was ok before the posh stiff was put in
 
Just checked my cyclinders and on coils 1 and 3 nothing happens when i unplug them, engine still mis behaves, am I right in saying these are seperate coil packs or Is there something that controls the packs ?

What Other things should I check ?
 
Dont bother with fuel pump until you have proved the ignition is ok.

If you have the coil pack and plug leads they use a wasted spark system firing in pairs 1 & 4 and 2 & 3.

Fit a new coil pack and leads. If it still missfires on the same sparks you have the well known coil driver ECU fault. You need the new coil with repaired ECU anyway so its not wasted if the fault isnt in the coil. See the ECU Testing Ltd website.

If you have separate plug cap coils that sit in the cylinder head swap them about and see if the missfire moves.
 
Last edited:
WhiteSei said:
Dont bother with fuel pump until you have proved the ignition is ok.

If you have the coil pack and plug leads they use a wasted spark system firing in pairs 1 & 4 and 2 & 3.

Fit a new coil pack and leads. If it still missfires on the same sparks you have the well known coil driver ECU fault. You need the new coil with repaired ECU anyway so its not wasted if the fault isnt in the coil. See the ECU Testing Ltd website.

If you have separate plug cap coils that sit in the cylinder head swap them about and see if the missfire moves.
Click to expand...

If i took coils 2 & 4 and placed them on 1 & 3 and then 2 & 4 started mis firing would this then prove the coils are knackered ?

Is it expensive to get the ECU repaired ?
 
Tony123 said:
If i took coils 2 & 4 and placed them on 1 & 3 and then 2 & 4 started mis firing would this then prove the coils are knackered ?

Is it expensive to get the ECU repaired ?
Click to expand...

Yours is an HGT isn't it? The common ECU coil-driver fault only affects the 1.2 8v.

Swap the affected coils around and see if it improves/if the fault switches cylinders. If it stays misfiring on 1 & 3, whip the plugs out and check/replace with an old working set.

It'll be worth checking with the garage if they've had anyone else come back with fuel problems- occasionally the wrong or contaminated fuel can be put into their tanks. What garage was it?
 
WhiteSei said:
Dont bother with fuel pump until you have proved the ignition is ok.

If you have the coil pack and plug leads they use a wasted spark system firing in pairs 1 & 4 and 2 & 3.

Fit a new coil pack and leads. If it still missfires on the same sparks you have the well known coil driver ECU fault. You need the new coil with repaired ECU anyway so its not wasted if the fault isnt in the coil. See the ECU Testing Ltd website.

If you have separate plug cap coils that sit in the cylinder head swap them about and see if the missfire moves.
Click to expand...

Mine is the HGT with separate coils but mentioned because I believe some 16V 1200s use them as well.
Of course I may be wrong (nowt new there) :)

Not getting bovvered but I think the post above was clear enough with the bold. ;)
 
Last edited:
IIRC, it was the 1.4 16v's that went to coil-on-plug... although the very last of the 1.2 16v's may have been COP too.

I'm sure Tony's is the 1.8 16v, so COP it is. :)
 
Tony123 said:
ive not got an ohm meter :(
would this be on a normal multi meter ?
How would i test them ?
Click to expand...
Yes, a normal multi meter will do.
According to Heynes manual primary should be 0.495-0.605 so practically short. And secondary should be 6660-8140 ohms. Primary is the wiring coming from the ECU and there are two terminal in the coil and this is where you take the measurement. The secondary is the ignition leads. Not 100% sure but when you measure secondary you measure between on of the leads and ground. Both leads on the twin coil should show same sort of impedance.
 
My car is a Deffo non staryer now, there is fuel getting to the sparks because they are wet, what should I check first ?
Sparks are brand new, there's no eml on.
It half started the other day but cut out about 5 seconds later.
I dont want to buy new coils unless I have too, been quoted 120 £ for a set :(

Was thinking of sending my ecu to that company because i think mines goosed =\

Any things i can test to rule a few things out ?
 
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