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Technical Panda 4x4 TA (85hp Wild) -120K periodic maintenance advice?

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Technical Panda 4x4 TA (85hp Wild) -120K periodic maintenance advice?

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daquirm

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Hello everyone,

I am currently gearing up for the 120,000km maintenance for my Fiat Panda 4x4 Wild (TA 85hp - 2019) that I bought recently, and I could use your collective wisdom to make sure I do not miss anything. There are a couple of things I would like to discuss, and I would appreciate your insights:

Checks and changes
As part of this scheduled maintenance, the shop will be performing the standard checks and changes recommended for this mileage, such as brake fluid, oil and oil filter change, and so forth. In addition to these routine tasks, I am planning to ask them to replace the timing chain and spark plugs. Beyond the fluid-related matters, I am also keen on understanding if there are other checks, parts or components that usually go hand-in-hand with a driving chain replacement. If there is a cost-effective way to tackle these together due to shared labor, I am all ears. The goal here is to avoid the disassembly of the engine over and over, and save on labor costs.

Oils
I am curious to know if changing the transmission and differential oils at this mileage is necessary, and if so which ones to use?

The owner's manual has provided the following guidance on the recommended oils:

Gearbox/Differential (*1700ml) *for 0.9 TwinAir Turbo
Petronas Tutela Transmission Technyx 75W-85 (API GL4)

Rear Differential(*620ml) *for 4x4
Petronas Tutela Transmission Cross 75W-85 (API GL5)

Transmission Idler Unit (PTU) (*390ml) *for 4x4
Petronas Tutela Transmission Multiaxle 75W-85 (API GL5)

Possible Issues
Finally, could you please share your insights on things I should be cautious about or specific items I should mention to the mechanic before they start working on the car? 4x4 Fiat Pandas, especially ones with the TA engine are a rare occurrence here. I want to ensure that the maintenance goes smoothly and does not result in any unexpected issues later.

Thank you for your advice in advance!
 
varesecrazy said:
Hi

Correct ENGINE oil is Important,

there is a small gauze strainer that screens oil within the Uniair module

The garage may need good software to Reset ECU (and Body..) Parameters
Click to expand...

According to the manual that would be the one below - if I am not mistaken (I have 1L on shelf already).
Selenia - Digitek Pure Energy 0W-30 (ACEA C2)

Regarding the gauze strainer, is it necessary/recommended to replace this component as well? I could not find any information about this in the manual.
 
daquirm said:
Gearbox/Differential (*1700ml) *for 0.9 TwinAir Turbo
Petronas Tutela Transmission Technyx 75W-85 (API GL4)

Rear Differential(*620ml) *for 4x4
Petronas Tutela Transmission Cross 75W-85 (API GL5)

Transmission Idler Unit (PTU) (*390ml) *for 4x4
Petronas Tutela Transmission Multiaxle 75W-85 (API GL5)
Click to expand...
On the TwinAir engined 4x4, there is not a separate PTU/Transmission Idler unit: that is contained within the gearbox and front differential casing. (Only the diesel 4x4 has the separate PTU unit). So you won't be needing that oil...

There is no specified time or mileage to replace the gearbox and rear differential oils in the first 150,000km shown in the handbook, but at 120,000km (72,000 miles), that sounds like a sensible precaution.

As well as your good list above, the serpentine belt that runs the alternator, air conditioner and so on should ideally be replaced every 120,000km max.

It would also be wise to take a good look at the propshaft from front to rear, especially the centre bearing. The rubber mount this is supported in is prone to perishing and breaking away. While the bearing is potentially replaceable as a separate part, it is probably easier to replace the entire propshaft. Although Fiat charge £1600 for the complete shaft here in the UK, there are plenty of suppliers showing the same from about £260. It is made for Fiat by GKN.
 
Last edited:
Herts Hillhopper said:
On the TwinAir engined 4x4, there is not a separate PTU/Transmission Idler unit: that is contained within the gearbox and front differential casing.
Click to expand...
Thank you for clarifying this. I had a suspicion that this might be the case, but it was not clear to me in the manual. Now I know :)

As for the rubber mount issue, is this the part you are referring to? If so, the center propshaft bearing costs about 45 EUR here, the entire propshaft is about 300 EUR - I do not know about the labor costs, though.

1699444895342.png

I grabbed my cheapo endoscope (and slid it through the gaps on the shielding) and took pictures of the center bearing on my car. Unfortunately, there is a lot of dirt on it, but perhaps someone who has experience with the deterioration process can comment on the condition of the rubber mount.

View media item 140614
View media item 140613
View media item 140612
View media item 140611
 
daquirm said:
Thank you for clarifying this. I had a suspicion that this might be the case, but it was not clear to me in the manual. Now I know :)

As for the rubber mount issue, is this the part you are referring to? If so, the center propshaft bearing costs about 45 EUR here, the entire propshaft is about 300 EUR - I do not know about the labor costs, though.

View attachment 433131
I grabbed my cheapo endoscope (and slid it through the gaps on the shielding) and took pictures of the center bearing on my car. Unfortunately, there is a lot of dirt on it, but perhaps someone who has experience with the deterioration process can comment on the condition of the rubber mount.

View media item 140614
View media item 140613
View media item 140612
View media item 140611
Click to expand...
That looks to be in great condition! I don’t think you need to worry about that.

The place they fail is the outer fold. Mine is going already :(
 
Herts Hillhopper said:
That looks to be in great condition! I don’t think you need to worry about that.

The place they fail is the outer fold. Mine is going already :(
Click to expand...
Is there a photy-graf of that?

I can get some slight movement when I wiggle mine (titter ye not!) but it doesn't seem excessive, OTOH I don't know what normal feels like.
 
At what mileage is it recommended to replace the timing chain on a TA Panda? Unfortunately, the manual does not say anything about this.
 
Bonefish Blues said:
Is there a photy-graf of that?

I can get some slight movement when I wiggle mine (titter ye not!) but it doesn't seem excessive, OTOH I don't know what normal feels like.
Click to expand...
It should have a bit of movement - that’s the idea of the concertina section of rubber - to absorb any vibrations and stop them transferring into the car. But after a lot of flexing, esp in cold weather the rubber starts to split. See arrow on the photo — this is my car. Even if all shredded the car will still work ok, but it’s not ideal and can be an MOT fail.

1699473128952.png
 
Last edited:
For the diesel, which also uses a timing chain, in the Haynes AutoFix product there is a list of 'likely lifetimes' of components and their recommended change interval. It lists, for example, replacing the air con compressor every 10 years, or a front wheel bearing every 100,000 miles. It also shows coolant every 40,000 miles, but no mention of gear oil changes. The list doesn't mention the timing chain at all!
 
Herts Hillhopper said:
For the diesel, which also uses a timing chain, in the Haynes AutoFix product there is a list of 'likely lifetimes' of components and their recommended change interval. It lists, for example, replacing the air con compressor every 10 years, or a front wheel bearing every 100,000 miles. It also shows coolant every 40,000 miles, but no mention of gear oil changes. The list doesn't mention the timing chain at all!
Click to expand...
We just did our AC at 110K. Timing chain recommendation is to only react if the death rattle is heard on cold start-up aiui.
 
varesecrazy said:
Of course not being in ANY service schedule.. For a TA motor..
There is no obvious method of seeing if it Was changed @100k for any recent purchase 🤔

Out of interest what did this cost..?
( And where)
The diesel parts are relatively inexpensive 🙂
Click to expand...
My car is 10 years old and when it turned 100.000 a couple of months ago I phoned my local fiat garage and they quoted £1000 plus vat but the way he said it they didn’t want to do it so I bought everything from them all genuine the kit was £250 but I decided when I finally found someone to do it I also changed the oil pump plus the pick up pipe which was £300 the labour was £540 yes the diesel kit is a lot cheaper but the TA is a different kettle of fish
 
I always thought that timing chains only needed changing when they started to rattle - with the exception of those modern engines with known timing chain problems (and they are usually due to plastic guides/tensioners wearing).
I've got an engine in regular use with a timing chain that hasn't been changed since it was new in 1953.
 
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