Tuning Improve 1.2 16 V engine

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Tuning Improve 1.2 16 V engine

mmelo

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There is a very nice challenge race car with punto 1.2 16V in Portugal. The modification of the engine are very limit and I would like to ask to the forum is if anyone have experience with change the diagram of engine using the std cams and if is possible to get more power? Other possibility is to do metal treatment to minimize the internal loss do from friction, any experience with that?

Regards,

MM.
 

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Nope all I know of is the standard tuning methods:-

1.)a real perfomance induction kit(not generic K&N)
2.) performance exhaust from the likes of supersprint.
3.) ECU Remap / Re-Chip ECU
4.) Race / Fast Road profile Cams
5.) Optimisation of the cylander head... port & polish etc
6.) Larger and optimised throttle body / intake manifold
7.) Bottom end balancing (only required if your going to be letting it rev high).

Thats it unless you go down the route of Turbo Charging / Forced Induction.
 
Thanks very much,

All those modifications are not allowed except the induction air with k&N filter. Any experience how to cheat the ECU change the air temperature, water temperature or lambda sensor signals?


MM.
 
If its like UK standard car racing, the scrutineers will strip the engine at your expense and if they see non standard metal removal you are banned

Most race engines run on the rich side of correct mixture - the excess fuel helps with cooling. Running flat out most of the time they they dont suffer bore-wash.

I imagine valve seats (not the ports) could be recut and valves reprofiled a little to improve flow. A narrow seat band gives a better flow but a short service life.

It might be possible to cheat the MAF sensor to overfuel slightly with connecting wires having a different resistance from normal. But you'll need lots of time on a rolling road to get it set up right.
 
Would help to have the entire paragraphs of allowed modificarions. Depending on the wording sometimes certain mods aren't covered.

If you wish to pm, feel free.
 
There may be a wee bit of power to be found from making sure the cams are timed exactly right.

Are you allowed verniers?

If not, you are going to need a lot of offset dowels of different sizes to get it right.

If you are not allowed to machine internal components, this is where it gets really expensive as you need to buy several sets of rods and pistons and get a matching set.

You can gain power by 'losing' the alternator belt during the race, make sure you have a good battery though.

Also make sure the chassis is running as free as possible. To go daft, if you want to replace the bearings each race, run them on lighter grease. Make sure all the brakes are working perfectly with no drag.

Production racing is about finding every last wee 100th of a second wherever you can.

Do you shave your tyres?

Cheers

SPD
 
Thank you all.

The ECU is supplied by the organization every race, not possible to much in engine except raise a litle the CR but the combustor chamber volume is limit to a certain value. We can change a diagram of cam distribution but with the std cams, but I don't know is has a positive effect doing a small changing in timing the engine. I just wondering if is possible to enrich the fuel mixture a little by cheating some of the sensors. For example the air temperature sensor and this overlap the lamp sensor? It is possible to do some metal treatment to reduce the internal friction of the engine because is not possible to detect, anyone have experience with that?


Regards,

MM.
 

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They have thought about nearly everything.

You will get a bit of an advantage using 0w40 oil.

Can you use a spacer between the inlet manifold and the inlet ports?

Do you have to use the standard exhaust?

Increasing the fuel load the way you would like to do it is not helping. You need to ad vance the ignition too to get more power.

The valves could get a multi angle cut, which helps flow quite a bit.

Redline shock proof light gear box lubricant reduces drag as well.
 
Dear all,

I'm already using the 20WT from redline oils and also superlight shockprove gear oild from also RL. To you have any idea how to advance the ignition, maybe changing the sensor position 2º in counter engine rotation? The exhaust system is also given by the organization. I'm using a cool-it strap to cool the engine bay.

Regards,

MM.
 
They have thought about nearly everything.

You will get a bit of an advantage using 0w40 oil.

Can you use a spacer between the inlet manifold and the inlet ports?


This I can't understan how it could helps! But I think I could put more gasket.

Do you have to use the standard exhaust?

Increasing the fuel load the way you would like to do it is not helping. You need to ad vance the ignition too to get more power.

The valves could get a multi angle cut, which helps flow quite a bit.

I don't know if it is legal?!?

Redline shock proof light gear box lubricant reduces drag as well.


thkx.
 
With a spacer plate you can port match the manifold to inlet port transition.


ok, but not allowed. Any ideas to advance the timing ignition, change the sensor position it seems the most obvious and with a stroboscopic light gun is easy to adjust the set-point. Do you have a number for the increase bhp? How much should the ignition be advance 2º, or 4º?

Regards,

MM.
 
ok, but not allowed. Any ideas to advance the timing ignition, change the sensor position it seems the most obvious and with a stroboscopic light gun is easy to adjust the set-point. Do you have a number for the increase bhp? How much should the ignition be advance 2º, or 4º?

Regards,

MM.

I would start with 2 degrees. If you over advance the knock sensor will knock the ignition back all the time and you might be under driving conditions worse off than with standard timing.
 
Dear All,

The racing season was not to bad for the 1 year, but now we are preparing the new year.

Moving the sensor ignition advange looks to work ok. But
I'm thinking in change the injectors. Should I change them with oem spares or there is another possibilities with an improvement of engine power (the engine should have about 100 cv by now). About using 10% of Toluene in fuel should help to improve the engine in maybe 4º of advance timming?

Regards and a happy new year,


MM.
 
Some modifiers lift the back edge of the bonnet (engine cover) on raised hinge brackets to let hot air escape.

In my opinion it looks silly on a road car, but for restricted rules racing you could get better cooling airflow that way.
 
have you tried a throttle body from a 1.6 brava/bravo/marea? Direct swap, looks exactly the same until you pull the intake pipe off and see the massive 48mm butterfly :p
 
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