All the below assumes you are definitely talking about the clutch master (as fitted to the pedal) and not the slave (on top of the gearbox).
If he insists on doing it the official way, you'd better supply plenty cups of tea!!!
The clutch slave sits, pointing upwards,
behind the brake servo in the engine bay so requires the brake pipes disconnected and the whole servo/brake master cyl assembly removed, even then the clutch master cyl is hidden under a shelf formed in the bulkhead panel so you can't see it!
The best course of action, especially for someone working at home is to instead leave the clutch master in situ and strip and replace the internal parts. The usual fault is the return spring breaks in two so the pedal doesn't come back up fully and gear engagement is difficult.
First clamp the feed hose (to prevent the reservoir dumping all the fluid in the car).
Unhook the linkage from the pedal.
Slide the 'U' shaped clip sideways out of the end of the master cyl. Remove the rod and gaiter.
Be advised that some fluid will still be present, though you can mop this up with rags easily.
Now the tricky bit. The piston inside is too smooth to fish out, and using anything down the side will damage the bore causing future leaks. the best way is for someone in the engine bay to unbolt the clutch slave cyl and gently push its rod back inside, thus forcing fluid back and pushing the master cyl out!
Make sure all the broken bits of spring are removed, then simply rebuild using the new internals from your new master cyl. Bleed the system and away you go!
Enjoy!
