Technical Hollow nut crankcase to oil filter removal

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Technical Hollow nut crankcase to oil filter removal

Mark0474

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Hollow nut crankcase to oil filter removal advise please

Hi

I need to remove the crankcase and can’t figure out how to remove the hollow nut that goes to the oil filter. Is it Left handed or right handed. I have a leak from the crankcase seal which I can’t access.

Another question is, are the engine mounting studs on the crankcase removable as the threads are stripped.

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
Hi

I need to remove the crankcase and can’t figure out how to remove the hollow nut that goes to the oil filter. Is it Left handed or right handed. I have a leak from the crankcase seal which I can’t access.

Another question is, are the engine mounting studs on the crankcase removable as the threads are stripped.

Thanks.

Hi Mark. that big nut is a standard thread, so turn it anti-clockwise to remove. You may already have seen that there is a tab turned up on one flat which needs flattening first.

My favourite removal method is to use an air impact wrench, which quickly jars it into movement. Alternatively, with the sump removed, you can jam the crankshaft against the crankcase to stop movement whilst you turn it with a very long-handled wrench. Using this wedge you might also get it to move using the impact of a heavy hammer on the end of a shorter wrench or bar. There is a danger you might damage the crankcase if the crankshaft is wedged against it, but it has never happened to me.

You might find it safer to chock the car from moving and then put it in gear to stop the engine from turning. There is also a tool which locks into the flywheel teeth and jams the engine, but I've never used one of those.

It will be quite tight, but once it moves a little it will turn very easily.

Good luck.
 
Re: Hollow nut crankcase to oil filter removal advise please

Hi

I need to remove the crankcase and can’t figure out how to remove the hollow nut that goes to the oil filter. Is it Left handed or right handed. I have a leak from the crankcase seal which I can’t access.

Another question is, are the engine mounting studs on the crankcase removable as the threads are stripped.

Thanks.

Hi Mark, The hollow nut that secures the crankshaft pulley should be removed in an Anti-clockwise direction IT WILL BE VERY TIGHT use a long extension on your spanner or socket to give you leverage. It can be done with the engine in or out of the car, but is best if you have the engine out and access to the inside. Lock the crankshaft with a piece of wood or similar to prevent movement while you undo the nut, otherwise it is difficult to obtain sufficient force. The mounting studs to the bell housing/engine are removable and easy to replace. (y)(y)
Ian
 
Thank you all. The engine is in the car but I was going make a bar that will bolt onto the pulley so that I can stop the crank from turning. It seems to be crazy tight, I think Thor tightened it!

Thank you.
 
A better way to lock the crank if the engine is still in situ is to remove the small flywheel undertray, and then jam one of the small flywheel locking tools (which is always handy to have in you toolbox) on the OPPOSITE to which you are turning, against the crankcase. That way, by turning the engine, you are jamming the flywheel tool in place. The torque for the big nut is:--108.5 lbft for both the 500 and 126 engines---that equates to 149 Nm. This might sound a bit 'bush mechanic', but I assure you, it works.
 
Thank you all for the information, I have managed to get the nut off.

I will certainly look out for the flywheel locking tool, as you said, its always worth having in the toolbox.

Thanks again,
Mark
 
I used the steel bar bolted to the pulley, then wooden blocks near to the pulley and bar to stop any twisting, I like the idea of locking the flywheel though.

It worked well and found the probable cause of the leak.

Regards
Mark
 
I used the steel bar bolted to the pulley, then wooden blocks near to the pulley and bar to stop any twisting, I like the idea of locking the flywheel though.

It worked well and found the probable cause of the leak.

Regards
Mark

Hi Mark, check on Ebay or locally for - BGS - Flywheel Locking Tool for Citroen, Fiat, Peugeot Etc - 1771
I have one, it does the job and can be bolted on when the engine is out or just jammed against the bell housing. It works very well.
Ian.
 
I have used that same tool very succesfully. In fact it was Ian who told me about it, and told me the dodge of how to use it (jammed up against the crankcase) when the engine was still in-situ. All hail to Ian!
 
I have used that same tool very succesfully. In fact it was Ian who told me about it, and told me the dodge of how to use it (jammed up against the crankcase) when the engine was still in-situ. All hail to Ian!

Hi Tom, you are too kind, but in truth I got lucky Fleabay came up with the tool on the first try (y)(y)(y)
Ian.
 
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