500 Hi to all

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500 Hi to all

I clear the code but it come back. The oil is very black so I will change it and filter.
Should I use 0w30 oil ?
 
I clear the code but it come back. The oil is very black so I will change it and filter.
Should I use 0w30 oil ?
Servicing info here :


The 0w30 oil is the correct grade,

Personally I would buy Castrol type of cheaper oil, and change it in the Spring/Summer

The Petronas Selenia is expensive
 
Hi what oil should I use?
Read my last post.. Click on Blue link😉

A 500 specific GUIDE here



My 500 is not a Twinair.. But my Panda and Punto are 😉
 
I looked at my 4 cylinder 500 1242cc today,
no obvious light to show the Immobiliser - So probably not your problem

Your dash warnings for ASR are related to the Brake Switch (brakes witch) and CANBUS errors

Interesting if they clear.. Or return
View attachment 435348
I manage to clear code but p1524 coming back every time, and brake switch fault. Can brake switch fault stop it from start ?
 
I looked at my 4 cylinder 500 1242cc today,
no obvious light to show the Immobiliser - So probably not your problem

Your dash warnings for ASR are related to the Brake Switch (brakes witch) and CANBUS errors

Interesting if they clear.. Or return
View attachment 435348
Brake switch come back every time I delete it, I change this switch 2 month ago
 
I take the car to workshop and they say they think it is fault with twin air actuator and the total price will cost 2500 pound.
It is no compression they say. Is it electronic lifter or hydraulic ventil lifter on this car? or someone have some better tips to do. Thanks
in advance.
 
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I take the car to workshop and they say they think it is fault with twin air actuator and the total price will cost 2500 pound.
A new actuator isn't cheap, but that's a lot.

At that price, you need to be certain that replacing it is going to fix the problem. You car's the right sort of age for the actuator to have worn out, and the symptoms fit with actuator failure, but £2500 is a lot to wager on parts roulette.

Have a read of this , which gives you some idea of what's possible with advanced diagnostics. But your average independent garage isn't going to have the sort of kit you need to do this.
 
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I take the car to workshop and they say they think it is fault with twin air actuator and the total price will cost 2500 pound.
It is no compression they say. Is it electronic lifter or hydraulic ventil lifter on this car? or someone have some better tips to do. Thanks
in advance.
So, did you change the oil, inspect the gauze filter?


Did a good battery make any difference?


Your indicated Rpm did look very slow.

In the UK the Uniair actuator is @£800, and probably a4 hours to fit.. That makes 50% of your quote
 
So, did you change the oil, inspect the gauze filter?


Did a good battery make any difference?


Your indicated Rpm did look very slow.

In the UK the Uniair actuator is @£800, and probably a4 hours to fit.. That makes 50% of your quote
Where is the gauze filter on this? The price for the actuator is the same in Norway to but the price at workshop is very high in Norway.
Only for the time for finding out what they think problem is they want 600 pound but not 100% sure if that is the problem :( It did not help
with better battery.
 
Where is the gauze filter on this? The price for the actuator is the same in Norway to but the price at workshop is very high in Norway.

It did not help
with better battery.
Gauze filter information..

(I believe it's under that TORX looking cap, apparently it's a 1/3 turn and the cap comes away)



Information regarding screen filters.. (I have not looked at mine)




Fundamentals here, your engine needs OIL Pressure to operate the valves effectively

You have, dirty oil, and a Slow cranking motor🤔. So oil pressure will be Low on the starter...


Towing the car, to get good rpm @30kph, could be worth a try

Obviously needing space to achieve this, compromised steering and braking, etc
 
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Gauze filter information..

(I believe it's under that TORX looking cap, apparently it's a 1/3 turn and the cap comes away)



Information regarding screen filters.. (I have not looked at mine)




Fundamentals here, your engine needs OIL Pressure to operate the valves effectively

You have, dirty oil, and a Slow cranking motor🤔. So oil pressure will be Low on the starter...


Towing the car, to get good rpm @30kph, could be worth a try

Obviously needing space to achieve this, compromised steering and braking, etc
Thank you I will try to towing the car when wheater get better :) -20 degree and ice on road so dangerous right now :)
 
Hi

Yesterday I take the car out from workshop, and we change the oil and use engine oil cleaner.
We start trowing the car and after around 2000 meter it start and stop again, trow little bit more and it start again with some ticking noise.
But after I can start the car with key, I drive with car around 1 hour and the bad sound get better and better but have little bit ticking noise
but not sure because the sound on twin motor is strange from other motor. Today I will drive more and change oil and filter again, so I hope
it will help.:) :)
 
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