Technical Help!

[Spinkly34]

Hi all new to the group had my 2002 fiat stilo 1.9jtd for 5 days and having trouble.
1st off its been messed about with remapped to 160bhp sports exhaust induction kit after a couple of days of owning it it wouldn't start so contacted previous owner who didn't want to know, I put jump leads on and cranked it over for about 5 mins on and off and she started bought a new battery went to it next day same thing called AA and they said no power at the glow plugs and airflow sensor. Car was fine for a few days as I said but now a nightmare to start and have to use jump leads as battery wears down while I'm cranking to start and now when it's running and I floor it or go past 3000rpm I get engine fault and red engine management light on and cuts out switch ignition off and on and it will start again no problem, just to add if I leave the car more than 4 hours it won't start unless I repeat the jump leads method again! Neighbours not happy at 05.30 any help would be appreciated

 

[Davren]

Hi, Welcome to the FF.

Did the AA diagnose why there was no power to the glow plugs?
.

 

[Spinkly34]

Hi thanks and no he just got it started with easy start told me I can use lynx deodorant lol then plugged it in told me air flow sensor fault then used a tester and said no power at glow plugs

 

[Davren]

Check the 50 Amp fuse F4 in the engine compartment fuse box. That fuse supplies power to the glow plug control unit located on the bulkhead.
.

 

[Spinkly34]

Fuse seems ok looked at that yesterday evening gave it a clean up just in case

 

[Davren]

Assuming the fuse is OK, check for power at the bolt-on terminal of the glow plug control unit when the ignition is switched on. Be careful not to short the terminal while testing.

The control unit is shown arrowed in the picture below. The picture is for the 8 valve JTD engine, if yours is a 16 valve JTD, the control unit will be the same, but may be located in a different position.
.

 

[Spinkly34]

Thanks for this will try in the morning have already changed positive battery terminal as old 1 was broken
Any other suggestions if not control unit? And would that cause the power failure at 3000rpm? Or is that the air flow sensor? Forgot to mention I changed that aswell and cleaned the maf sensor on top of engine

 

[Davren]

No power at the glow plugs and no power to the airflow sensor are two separate problems. They are not electrically connected.

Better to deal with one problem at a time. The logical one to resolve first is the glow plugs, so you don't keep flattening the battery by having to continually turn the engine over to start the car.
.

 

[Spinkly34]

This is true will look at it tomorrow thanks alot

 

[schummy027]

[ame]https://youtu.be/4Po_1pNHE1Y[/ame]

 

[Spinkly34]

Typical can't find me multi metre ??

 

[Davren]

There's no point in measuring glow plug resistances until you've diagnosed, and rectified, why there's no power getting to them in the first place.
.

 

[Spinkly34]

Is there any way to test the glow plug relay?

 

[Davren]

Is there any way to test the glow plug relay?

Check for power at the bolt-on input terminal (see post 6 above). If there is power, then check for power at the 4 output terminals. If there is, then the glow plug control unit is working. If not, then it could be a problem with the two control wires from the engine management ECU. I'm not aware of any method of testing the signals from these two wires, so at this point would try another glow plug control unit.

With further investigation of the wiring diagrams, I've discovered that there's a second power supply to the glow plug control unit protected by fuse F11 (15 Amp) in the engine compartment fuse box. This fuse also supplies power to the air flow meter, and various other sensors, so contrary to what I said in post 8 above, the two systems are electrically connected.

Before going any further, test fuse F11. Midi and mini fuses can develop hairline cracks that are not visible, so you will need to find your multimeter, or test it with a battery and bulb, or try a new fuse. Just looking at it may not show a fault.
.

 

[Spinkly34]

All fuses checked and ok even replaced a few because they looked old still can't find multi metre will only start now with easy start and even when I've driven for 30 mins switched it off and tried to start it it won't unless I use easy start

 

[Spinkly34]

Update
Maf cleaned airflow sensor cleaned comes up with no faults but still cuts out with red engine management light! All fuses checked ok anyone have anymore ideas?

 

[corcai]

If you serious about fixing it yourself buy or borrow another multimeter and sort the glowplugs. ECU won't fire the injectors until the pressure in the rail is high enough if it's cranking over slowly you won't make enough pressure and would need to look at earths and starter. If it's cranking over fast and not starting then its often a leaky injector/s which could well be why the previous owner offloaded it. When it's been remapped / fiddled with it could also be the map or they may have fitted a different rail pressure sensor or a crappy tuning box to the rail pressure sensor to report a lower pressure to the ECU.

 

[Spinkly34]

Want it fixed it will start every morning with easystart and a new battery was put on a few days ago if I drive to work or let it tick over for 10 mins and switch it off it will start again but not if I leave it for a few hours

 

[varesecrazy]

Want it fixed ,
if I drive to work or let it tick over for 10 mins and switch it off it will start again but not if I leave it for a few hours

that's better than you had said 2 weeks ago..

 

[Spinkly34]

Yeah I know still weird though