Ducato fiat ducato 2.8 jtd no start

[royrapido]

hi guys got a problem with my ducato 2.8jtd.
it snapped a timing belt
i sorced a replacement engine
engine fitted to van (motorhome)
aparently it started first turn of the key and sounded good
engine stopped
now wont start
there is nothing on the dash no lights nothing
as if van is not seeing key fob
any ideas

 

[Communicator]

hi guys got a problem with my ducato 2.8jtd.
it snapped a timing belt
i sorced a replacement engine
engine fitted to van (motorhome)
aparently it started first turn of the key and sounded good
engine stopped
now wont start
there is nothing on the dash no lights nothing
as if van is not seeing key fob
any ideas

The 2.8jtd was fitted to the x230 model during 2000 - 2002, and to the facelifted x244 during 2002 - 2006.
Which model do you have? There are considerable electrical differences between models. Check VIN either ZFA230xxxxx. or ZFA244xxxxx.
Your use of the word "apparently" suggests that testing was by a third party.

Are you saying that the vehicle is electrically "dead", not cranking, and nothing working?

If yes you have a basic electrical fault. Do you possess, and are you able to use an electrical multimeter or 12V test lamp?

 

[steveras57]

I take it you mean that at first you had warning lights etc and once that first start they have now all gone!( and went at the same time the engine cut out?)
are there any other signs of electrical supply does the horn and headlights work?.
If you have power! but no warning lights and ignition then a main fuse or fuseable link may have failed! or maybe a loom connection has failed or come undone due to vibrations! if no power at all check the battery voltage and connections first!.
post findings as you go along to help us steer you right!

 

[royrapido]

The 2.8jtd was fitted to the x230 model during 2000 - 2002, and to the facelifted x244 during 2002 - 2006.
Which model do you have? There are considerable electrical differences between models. Check VIN either ZFA230xxxxx. or ZFA244xxxxx.
Your use of the word "apparently" suggests that testing was by a third party.

Are you saying that the vehicle is electrically "dead", not cranking, and nothing working?

If yes you have a basic electrical fault. Do you possess, and are you able to use an electrical multimeter or 12V test lamp?

I think it's the 244 as it's 2005 year . It's as if ecu is not detecting key so nothing on dash and no crank. I've downloaded a diagnosis procedure so going to take another look tomorrow. As I had to disable the strikeback t aftermarket alarm as it was sounding continuously. But vanbitz the manufacturer of the alarm for motorhomes say it doesn't disable the engine. This is done by the fiat factory fitted system if that makes sense

 

[steveras57]

did the replacement engine come with a new /different E C U to the one originally fitted to the broken engine!?

 

[royrapido]

No ecu engine came complete except for starter.

 

[steveras57]

Cant be that then! let us know the outcome of your diagnostic testing!.

 

[Communicator]

I think it's the 244 as it's 2005 year . It's as if ecu is not detecting key so nothing on dash and no crank. I've downloaded a diagnosis procedure so going to take another look tomorrow. As I had to disable the strikeback t aftermarket alarm as it was sounding continuously. But vanbitz the manufacturer of the alarm for motorhomes say it doesn't disable the engine. This is done by the fiat factory fitted system if that makes sense

A key code failure will allow the engine to crank, but the injection of fuel is inhibited, hence the engine will not start. The circuit for cranking the engine is basic, and there are no sensors in that area.

I suggest using a simple 12V test lamp for basic checks. Modern multimeters are very sensitive, and will give a plausible reading through a high resistance.

May I suggest the following test procedure, that I appreciate that you may already be following.

1. Battery OK? It is almost impossible to connect directly to the battery positive, due to the battery mounted fuseboard.
2. Is battery positive clamp firm? For safety, disconnect battery negative when using tools on the battery positive connections.
3. Test between battery positive and engine block (lifting lug?). This to check that engine block is earthed.
4. Carefully remove cover on engine bay fusebox. 2 off M5 nuts, (do not drop behind engine), 8mm box spanner or similar is best tool.
Check between M6 terminal stud, and engine block. This will prove the mega fuse at battery, and connection between.
5. Locate 30A (green) maxi fuse at corner. (See my attached diagram.) Inner end of fuse connects to ignition switch. Test here if possible.

If the above checks are OK, then you have to think about the ignition switch.

 

[royrapido]

A key code failure will allow the engine to crank, but the injection of fuel is inhibited, hence the engine will not start. The circuit for cranking the engine is basic, and there are no sensors in that area.

I suggest using a simple 12V test lamp for basic checks. Modern multimeters are very sensitive, and will give a plausible reading through a high resistance.

May I suggest the following test procedure, that I appreciate that you may already be following.

1. Battery OK? It is almost impossible to connect directly to the battery positive, due to the battery mounted fuseboard.
2. Is battery positive clamp firm? For safety, disconnect battery negative when using tools on the battery positive connections.
3. Test between battery positive and engine block (lifting lug?). This to check that engine block is earthed.
4. Carefully remove cover on engine bay fusebox. 2 off M5 nuts, (do not drop behind engine), 8mm box spanner or similar is best tool.
Check between M6 terminal stud, and engine block. This will prove the mega fuse at battery, and connection between.
5. Locate 30A (green) maxi fuse at corner. (See my attached diagram.) Inner end of fuse connects to ignition switch. Test here if possible.

If the above checks are OK, then you have to think about the ignition switch.

All sorted turned out to be fuse connected to pos terminal of battery well chuffed cost of £4.50

 

[steveras57]

I happily! refer you back to my first post! glad you solved it and it was easy! and cheep!) good news!