Technical Engine problems cant solve!

[Mikefraser93]

Hello, bought this car on 1st of January, had problems with it since

Goes into limp mode with s/s warning and check engine. Plugged my code reader in Get error code p0340.

Changed the cam position sensor, crank sensor, fixed boot wires, changed earth strap, changed brake light switch and removed and cleaned vvt solenoid.

It still does it! Can be fine for a day or two then does it non stop. Some times the rev gage goes to 0 won't accelerate, turn it off and on and it drives again but lights still on.


Don't know what else to try. Any help with be great fully appreciated!

 

[steveras57]

Check all the wiring and connectors from the cam and crank sensors back to the engine ECU for problems! open up any block connectors to check for corrosion clean and spray with electrical contact cleaner! were the new sensors of good quality as there is a lot of cheep pattern parts out there that dont work very well if at all!.

 

[Mikefraser93]

I did check all plugs and wires as I was doing it. They are febi bilstein ones they are supposed so be good quality I think?

 

[steveras57]

might be worth using mes to do a "phonic wheel" relearn to sync all the positions up for the ecu!

 

[John202020]

If you drive the car "slowly " round town say does it behave or keep the revs below 3k ?

 

[Mikefraser93]

I haven't got that software. My friend has a autel if that will do it? It's a bit hesitant sometimes driving round below 3 or 4k, I put that down to probably getting ready for a coilpack. Above that drives fine unless it's put those faults up

 

[Mikefraser93]

I've also disconnected the battery overnight see if that helps

 

[John202020]

I was thinking cam belt out one tooth, but if it drives fine at high speed or rpm that rules that out.
You really need someone with mes to read the codes, to go into limp mode the ecu thinks something might damage the engine rather just a sensor like Lambda

 

[Mikefraser93]

Need someone around nottinghamshire. Wondered what's chances of a new faulty cam sensor

 

[steveras57]

Kpat is in lincoln according to the register is that close enough to you!
best to replace sensors with originals not aftermarket if possible!

 

[Mikefraser93]

Lincoln is hour and a half to two hours unfortunately

 

[jrkitching]

I was thinking cam belt out one tooth

I was thinking that also.

but if it drives fine at high speed or rpm that rules that out.

OP seems to be saying that it goes into limp mode above 3k

Whatever the fault is, it was likely there when the OP bought the car, and may have been the reason the previous owner disposed of it.

Was this car bought privately, or from a dealer, and did it come with any kind of service history? If there's any evidence of a recent cambelt change, that would definitely point toward the next thing to check.

 

[Mikefraser93]

No it was private. Car drove mint on test drive and drive home. Then started 3 days later. No evidence of belt. But drives fine for a day or two when it's been sat couple of days then starts playing up again.

 

[eeeno]

Has it had cambelt changed recently? If it's been five years since it was changed, get it changed asap.

If on the other hand it was changed recently there's a possibility that the garage didn't do it properly. Lots of information on that, just search the forums.

I don't understand why people start changing sensors when there's absolutely nothing wrong with them.

 

[jrkitching]

Has it had cambelt changed recently? If it's been five years since it was changed, get it changed asap.

If on the other hand it was changed recently there's a possibility that the garage didn't do it properly. Lots of information on that, just search the forums.

If it has been done very recently, then a mistimed engine becomes the prime suspect.

If it's been more than five years, then it certainly does need changing. But if you do it before you've got to the bottom of the current problem, you'll introduce another level of obfuscation. We need to diagnose properly what's wrong before disturbing the belt.

Do you know how long the previous owner had owned the car?

I don't understand why people start changing sensors when there's absolutely nothing wrong with them.

They get a warning light, attach a generic code reader, see a fault code, do a quick google search which points to a sensor failure, and assume that changing it will fix the problem. Unfortunately, this approach rarely works.

Experienced mechanics know that the less you change before working out what's happened, the easier the diagnosis is.

 

[Mikefraser93]

I changed the cam sensor because the code appeared, I deleted it and it came back, so if it says cam sensor fault you assume that's faulty. They are a common failure. The belt and water pump is on the to do list but I'd like to fix this problem first. I've checked if the belt is stretched or loose and it isn't so I feel I can rule that out. I changed the crank sensor to see because it's cheap and easy and I can rule that out now too.

 

[Mikefraser93]

Disconnecting the battery made no difference but was free

 

[A3jeroen]

Coil on it's way out? Had something similar on my 100HP a few years ago. When going over 3000 rpm I lost power and engine went lumpy. After changing (pencil)coils for 4 new ones it was resolved.

gr J

 

[Mikefraser93]

I don't know because only fault code I get is for phase sensor (cam sensor) and runs fine when your booting it. Just slow driving feels bit hesitant.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Try removingvVVT solenoid and cleaning it. It should have nice clean vein slots. Its atop the 'rocker cover' has one allen key srew fixing. Pulls straight out. Also clean throttle body unless its spotless.

NEVER trust OBD codes entirely. Consider 1st principles and think aboutvlikely causes, then consider OBD code messages. They sometimes pinpoint something wrong. Often they are making oblique references to faults!