General Drop links torque settings?

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General Drop links torque settings?

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Jul 13, 2016
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Hey guys

Have a grande punto tjet 2009.

I need to change.my drop links in next few days was wondering if anyone knew what the torque spec (in Nm) is for the nuts that hold the link in place?

Thanks
 
Hi Emerson,

here's what you asked for ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 

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Hi,

Changed these myself last week, was 50nm of torque or if you have an old torque wrench like mine it was 37 lbf ft.

Regards.
 
The hardest part will be to lift the car and remove the wheel(s) ;-)

BRs, Bernie
Yea and stopping the drop link for spinning, luckily my stilo has a allen key hole in the threaded bar that the droplink bolts on... do its a allen key, tiny spanner to hold it then a ring spanner.

One side was easy, the other was a pain and required a slightly larger allen key hammering into it... probs going to replace it anyhow for the sake of £15.

Hope that helps.
 
Very simple job, only thing that makes it longer is if someone previously has over tightened it or its very rusty. So plenty of wd40!
 
The hardest part will be to lift the car and remove the wheel(s) ;-)

BRs, Bernie
Hey berne

Currently doing droplinks. It has come with locking nuts. I have put new lock nuts on one side. But they do not tighten done fully. They are on but I can keep turning and turning with my spanner? Is that normal?
 
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Hey guys just letting anyone who is a noob like me see some pictures of me doing the drop link replacement.
Wasn't too bad. On problem was on of the bolts developed a rust bulge so the nut would not screw off. But I had an impact driver that did the job. Clunking noise has gone. If anyone has any questions just drop them below as this is pretty fresh in my mind.

Thanks to all who helped me.
 
Hi Emerson,

can you confirm there is something designed to prevent the ball join rotation while tightening the nut (your open spanner) ?
If so I don't quite understand your PM ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
 
Hi Emerson,

can you confirm there is something designed to prevent the ball join rotation while tightening the nut (your open spanner) ?
If so I don't quite understand your PM ...

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)
Hey berne yes on the drop link you can put spanner on the back and it allows you to tighten nut down fully. What I was sayin in my.message is one you've T8GJTEN the nut down fully, the locking nut kind would not get that final tightening. So I could not torque then to a specific nm.
 
I still don't get you :-( Any nut, being self-lock or not will eventually be full tight ! Unless the 'screw' part rotates I can't see any difference between a nylstop and a standard nut...
 
Read what i said... my drop links have a tiny hole in the end of the thread... 6, 7 or 8mm allen key slots in... use a tiny ring spanner on the allen key to hold the thread in position.. when you turn your normal spanner, hold the allen key an other tiny spanner to stop the thread spinning...

Same goes for dissasembling the top mounts on your shock absorbers, also similar on rear shocks (but it has a flatted side to the top of the thread do you can hold with mole grips or a tiny socket and bar)

I just repainted the rear shocks and cleaned em up and reinstalled.

Putting front end back together on wednesday (if new parts arrive).
 
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