Technical Code on speedometer
- Thread starter Bessboo06
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical Code on speedometer
GeorgeDamper
Established member
If they are anything like my garage. It might mean :
os= oil service done in 2 minutes 41 seconds
os= oil service done in 2 minutes 41 seconds
This is wot it looks like
Attachments
My (probably too simple) solution would be going back to the garage.
gr J
gr J
I've never seen anything like that before but isn't that where the date should be? Go into the settings and try setting the date. It looks like it's lost its mind.
Are you playing any songs from a usb stick or phone at the time? Or do you have anything connected to the radio/blue and me
Yep, that looks like a track listing from the Blue&Me system - Track 05, duration 2 mins 41 seconds.
What you see depends on how the .mp3 file is tagged.
Last edited:
OMG am I really that much of an idiot ! Totally my phone then , makes absolute sense now !! Thanks So much , small things drive you mad …
Yes. Assuming your bumper trim had plastic primer applied to any bare plastic, and then you just applied either a different (colour) primer and/or aerosol paint. Plastic primer is essential to help the paint stick to the plastic. You can put whatever other primer/colour on top of it.
Smooth down whatever paint you applied with 400~600 grade wet and dry, tack the b'Jesus out of it to remove all the dust, then put one more coat of the colour on it. Clear coat adheres best to fresh (<48 hours old paint). If you get any paint runs, let the paint dry, cut it out with 400-600 and then re-spray that section with colour again until you're happy with the surface coverage on he whole piece. Don't cut or polish the "final" finish.
Within 48 hours, apply the clear coat. You're presumably going to be using an aerosol with the two-part/activator can. Shake it until you can't stand up any more, to mix it thoroughly. Use light coats but don't let each coat dry completely in between coats.. add some more while it's still just about tacky.
The 2-pack aerosol are supposed to last about a week once activated.. but try to get the top-coat coverage finished in one go, in case the top-coat starts to harden or the nozzle clogs etc. I doubt you really want to buy another aerosol just because you missed a bit.
Let the clear harden for a few days.. ignore any runs or bugs in it... When it's completely dried (probably one week later if you're not in a rush) then sand it down with 1200~1500 grit (very wet)... to get an even matt finish... then polish it using an abrasive polish.
Don't overdo it.. if you see colour on the polishing mop/cloth, then you've broken through the clear layer.. but if that happens, the good news is that at least you'll know what you're going to be doing for the next two weekends..
Ralf S.
Last edited:
Yes. Assuming your bumper trim had plastic primer applied to any bare plastic, and then you just applied either a different (colour) primer and/or aerosol paint. Plastic primer is essential to help the paint stick to the plastic. You can put whatever other primer/colour on top of it.
Smooth down whatever paint you applied with 400~600 grade wet and dry, tack the b'Jesus out of it to remove all the dust, then put one more coat of the colour on it. Clear coat adheres best to fresh (<48 hours old paint). If you get any paint runs, let the paint dry, cut it out with 400-600 and then re-spray that section with colour again until you're happy with the surface coverage on he whole piece. Don't cut or polish the "final" finish.
Within 48 hours, apply the clear coat. You're presumably going to be using an aerosol with the two-part/activator can. Shake it until you can't stand up any more, to mix it thoroughly. Use light coats but don't let each coat dry completely in between coats.. add some more while it's still just about tacky.
The 2-pack aerosol are supposed to last about a week once activated.. but try to get the top-coat coverage finished in one go, in case the top-coat starts to harden or the nozzle clogs etc. I doubt you really want to buy another aerosol just because you missed a bit.
Let the clear harden for a few days.. ignore any runs or bugs in it... When it's completely dried (probably one week later if you're not in a rush) then sand it down with 1200~1500 grit (very wet)... to get an even matt finish... then polish it using an abrasive polish.
Don't overdo it.. if you see colour on the polishing mop/cloth, then you've broken through the clear layer.. but if that happens, the good news is that at least you'll know what you're going to be doing for the next two weekends..
Ralf S.
Thanks a lot , very helpful . I have some 2part clear coat coming this week and it aint cheap ! I don’t know why I think I can do this stuff sometimes !!
What exactly have you ordered?
Professional 2K clearcoats use an isocyanate hardener; there are significant health and safety issues regarding their use. Generally a full face respirator with an external positive pressure air supply is strongly recommended, and absolutely essential if spraying indoors or in a confined space.
I've heard there are 'safer' 2k paints available now which don't contain isocyanates, but their durability is questionable.
Some DIY types have been known to take a chance and spray 2K isocyanate outdoors without a proper respirator. If you are asthmatic, don't even think about doing this - asthmatics most definitely need all the correct PPE.
And if you're not asthmatic, you might be after messing with this stuff if you don't know exactly what you're doing.
Last edited:
I've bought this stuff for when I re-spray my faded mirrors, although I've only got as far as sanding the existing paint smooth at the moment. I'm trying to collect up any other parts that I can paint at the same time, since the clear-coat is a) expensive and b) hardens in the can after a few days, so it's "use it or lose it".
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16417276...JtmPGI4i6dPiFQ%3D%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675
You can see there must be a second compartment inside the tin, that is opened via a grenade pin thing in the base.
It says it's isocyanate, so I agree, it's recommended to wear some kind of respiratory protection.. but strangely the warnings on the paint can seem to be more worried about fire. It only says "do not breathe paint" as far as H&S goes. If you're spraying a small piece in a well ventilated area it should be fairly safe but it's worth highlighting that the stuff is quite nasty.
Ralf S.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16417276...JtmPGI4i6dPiFQ%3D%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675
You can see there must be a second compartment inside the tin, that is opened via a grenade pin thing in the base.
It says it's isocyanate, so I agree, it's recommended to wear some kind of respiratory protection.. but strangely the warnings on the paint can seem to be more worried about fire. It only says "do not breathe paint" as far as H&S goes. If you're spraying a small piece in a well ventilated area it should be fairly safe but it's worth highlighting that the stuff is quite nasty.
Ralf S.
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Highly irritant, and a known carcinogen, it is indeed seriously nasty stuff.
Shelf life after mixing is temperature dependent; you may remember from your schooldays that the rate of most chemical reactions doubles with each 10C increase in temperature.
So to maximise its useability, put the can in the refrigerator the night before you mix the contents, then keep it there (I'd suggest inside a sealed ziploc bag) until you've finished painting.
Last edited:
But in general a spraycan works much better after an hour in a bucket with warm water...
So IMHO putting it in the freezer gives you a longer shelflife but a much worse result in your work.
gr J
So IMHO putting it in the freezer gives you a longer shelflife but a much worse result in your work.
gr J
That's why I don't like spraycans and generally use a modeller's airbrush & compressor if I'm working on small areas.
