Technical Clutch pedal no resistance intermittently

[RelayAl1960]

A couple of times this year the car (2016 model) has broken down on the road due to there being no resistance on the clutch pedal when depressed (but did return up again) and hence unable to get into gear. Both times the RAC were called but by the time they arrived (over an hour) the pedal was back to normal stiffness and gear selection ok again. The RAC said "perhaps the clutch overheated" one hot day it was 43degrees outside. Anybody any ideas? There are no hydraulic fluid leaks under the car.

 

[The Panda Nut]

My 2017 Panda did the same and it was - I was told the clutch master cylinder. The pedal is returned by an internal return spring inside the master cylinder. It was a know issue. It was fixed under warranty in under an hour while I waited so labour charges should not be too bad. I could drive on if I hooked the pedal up with my toes. Who thought that arrangement was progress I wonder. Pillock! There are others who have had the same thing reported on here.

 

[chris3234]

Double check the quick connector in the lefd hand side wheel arch area for any signs of a leak also around the pedal for. Leak near the master cylinder

 

[John202020]

Might be an idea to replace the clutch fluid?

 

[jrkitching]

The hydraulic clutch actuating mechanism is a known weakness on RHD cars.

I'd be suspicious of the clutch master cylinder. If the seals become worn, it might not be able to hold pressure when the pedal is pressed. Often you won't see any visible leaks when this happens - it's all internal to the cylinder.

Regular fluid changes can help prevent this happening in the first place, but once the seals start to fail, changing the fluid isn't likely to fix it (unless the cause is trapped air in the system).

Note also that if the slave needs to be replaced, then the master will likely not be long behind it (and vice versa). Anyone planning to keep the car would probably be wise to replace both together (and this could also save much frustration dealing with the so-called quick connector).

 

[Ralf S.]

If the issue happens again, pumping the pedal a few times slowly might sort out whatever the internal seals are doing... but something is obviously failing so it needs fixing.

Have a look under the battery, to see what kind of condition the slave cylinder is in. Any fluid leak means it's knackered.

Also the slave actuator rod should be clean (ish) and not completely corroded or shonky looking. It should also be "straight" from where it emerges from the slave "body" (black plastic, triangular/angular looking item, bolted to the top of the gearbox). If it's poking out at an angle, the slave is knackered.

If you need a new slave, you will probably also need a new master cylinder too... since they are connected with a quick-detach connector that also contains the clutch damper valve.. but the two halves corrode together and separating them becomes impossible.

You can get round the problem by detaching the hose from the new slave or master and replacing the affected cylinder but using the existing pipe-work.. but if the problem is the master cylinder (£120-200 depending who buys it) then I would personally buy a new slave too (£40) and fix it "properly" (all new parts) since it saves faffing about with it again for a very long time.


Ralf S.