Technical Clunking from both front wheels

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Technical Clunking from both front wheels

Incorrectly aligned struts / top mounts can cause this and it doesn't need to be very far out. I had to fiddle with our 169 it took a couple of goes before the clonking stopped. Dealer didnt identify the issue but changes drop links that were almost certainly fine as only a year old. Also check ride height to check springs not at fault. Cheap drop links not worth the saving. Ball joints / bottom arms also possible.
 
I've never been ***absolutely*** clear whether the bump stop and bellows assembly is meant to be attached into the top of the strut unit or allowed to sit on top of the damper body and "float".

No they don't float. pattern parts that allow this cause issues. Fiat bellows are attached to the bump stops that stay in place where they should. I eventually threw out the pattern parts I used and paid the price for the correct parts which can cause surprisingly loud clacking noises as well.
 
I've had much suspension maladies over the years. First point is always the drop-links, easiest and cheapest to change on standard fwd with Mac struts. Next is the front suspension wishbone(lower arm) rear bush, pretty much anythning else one wouldn't notice unless realy driving hard! Replacing the suspension arm means the bushes are changed, and it's the rear one that takes all the driving and braking forces as well as cornering/roll.
 
I've had much suspension maladies over the years. First point is always the drop-links, easiest and cheapest to change on standard fwd with Mac struts. Next is the front suspension wishbone(lower arm) rear bush, pretty much anythning else one wouldn't notice unless realy driving hard! Replacing the suspension arm means the bushes are changed, and it's the rear one that takes all the driving and braking forces as well as cornering/roll.

Late to respond to your reply, so sorry! Thank you … you know your stuff.

I can confirm it was the wishbone bushes that had gone and that was the clunk culprit ! Drives like a dream now.
 
I have a similar issue on our Panda 169 and the whole suspension is new. I have noticed that teh bellows bump stop is broken! These should be held at the top and not free to ride around so in our case Its going to have to be replaced again, that's the third time in rapid succession. At least I know can do the job in 45 mins but its irritating! The rattles are either lower arms bump or drop links. I am however also going to replace the front springs so I will be able to report if these can also have an effect. My tyre man says he believes they can be the cause. I am also going to the do the antiroll bar bushes.
 
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How are the lower arm bushes and balljoints?
I replaced the arb links and found it made no difference to the clunking, lower arm bushes were gone.
 
I've run various old Alfas and Fiats with McPherson struts since dinosaurs ruled the Earth... and if someone says their suspension knocks the first thing I think of is that the lower arm bushes are gone.

My old Alfa 155 @ 210,000 miles. Wishbones replaced: 2 prs Drop links: zero
My old Alfa 145 @ 152,000 miles: Wishbones replaced: 1 pr Drop links: zero
My old Fiat Stilo @ 212,000 miles: Wishbones replaced: 1 pr. Drop links: zero*

* Drop links had to come off to replace a broken spring and the nut was seized where it attaches to the damper, so I had to cut them off.. but the old ones were fine.

Morale of the story: "It's the wishbone arm bushes".

I've seen the 500 "eats drop links" but the part number is the same as the Stilo ones, so I'm very reluctant to believe it. On the other hand, the Younger Mrs S. now has a 500, so it'll be interesting to see what it does. At the moment, it's 63,000 miles on the factory everything, suspension-wise.


Ralf S.
 
It would appear we have some sort of suspension noise, from what sounds like near side front. I can’t replicate it At home inhe garage either on the floor or on axle stands.
How do you identify what is causing it if I can’t isolate or create the noise?

Ideally I don’t want to take this car to a garage…
 
A "clonk" is most likely to be the wishbone arm bushes. With the car on stands, you may be able to get under the wheel arch and visually inspect the bushes, particularly the rear one.

If it looks visibly old, crusty, damaged or tired, it could be knacked. A garage will get a pry bar (a 2ft long screwdriver, more or less) and attempt to lever the arm away from the subframe, by putting leverage on the bush.

If there is a lot of movement, then "on the road" the pin inside the bush will bump against the inside of the arm (the rubber won't be cushioning it very well, any more) so you hear the "clonk".

If the bush has been dying for a while, you may see inner shoulder wear on your tyres, since a saggy bush will increase the wheel camber, so the wheel tilts inwards more than it should, and the inner shoulder suffers. If you can get a sometimes "free" camber/wheel alignment check at the local tyre place, that will confirm the camber angle... though if you replace the wishbone arms, you would need to get the wheel alignment checked again as good practice.


Have a look at the drop links while you're there (as above, they're supposed to have no movement) but these are pressed into a nylon bush so last a lot longer.

Springs (when broken) can make a clunk, so have a look at both sides and see whether they look the same - the broken piece usually falls out and that side becomes a little soggier).

Otherwise it could be the suspension top mounts.. but (apart from 500 may be more weedy) I've not had too many dramas over the years, from similar setups. If you unbolt the damper from the hub you may be able to wrestle it backwards and forwards a bit, listening for any noise.


Ralf S.
 
In general most suspension issue can be hard to find as it's under tension with the weight of the car on it. Jacking up one side is just as bad since the antiroll bar fights against the difference in height.

Not sure on the fiat, but any top mount problems on other cars I've had usually show up when turning the steering lock to lock when not moving.
 
Not sure on the fiat, but any top mount problems on other cars I've had usually show up when turning the steering lock to lock when not moving.

MOT testing stations put the front wheels on turn plates for this very purpose.

You can improvise at home by running the front wheels onto a couple of old magazines.

It's important that the weight of the car is on its wheels for this test.
 
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Jumping on this thread, our 500TA clunks over speed bumps. Had one suspension arm changed 18 months ago only because of ball joint. I think the other is the issue. However lookng at ECP etc it states arm for Xenon & non-Xenon lights.
How do you know difference, cannot understand why there would be a difference?
How easy is it to change them. I'm pretty handy with spanners. Does the bumper need to come off?
TIA
 
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Bumper has to come off because the front bolts are hidden behind the extenders from the subframe, bolts for them are behind the bumper.

Usually the level sensors are on the back of the car since the rear suspension has more effect on the height of the lights.
 
Bumper has to come off because the front bolts are hidden behind the extenders from the subframe, bolts for them are behind the bumper.

Usually the level sensors are on the back of the car since the rear suspension has more effect on the height of the lights.
I've never seen a car with self leveling suspension with the sensors on the rear?
 
I've never seen a car with self leveling suspension with the sensors on the rear?

For the lights, the height of the front should not change since the weight of the engine is over the axle. The rear will vary much more depending on number of passengers and what load you have in the boot.
 
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