Technical cinq water pump removal refitting

[levemircento]

my water pump is leaking from its bearing.

I removed arch liner, top cam belt cover, released alternator and remove belt, removed lower belt pulley, followed by lower belt cover, replaced pulley and started it up with a full amount of water.

In the pic you can see the rusty stain just below the pump pulley.

I am currently waiting for FF member Trevor to send me a Porter manual. So in the meantime I need some tips on cam belt removal, the water pump looks easy enough to remove, and refit [I shall get some proper sealant - or does it have a gasket?]

I then need some tips on refitting cam belt, it looks really hard because of where the tensioner is placed and lack of room, I dont have very small hands!!

Or, if there is anyone in cheshire with the know how, I could really apreciated hands on help!!

 

[frenchwood]

Try here:
https://www.fiatforum.com/cinquecento-seicento-guides/83145-cambelt-change.html

Or simplified:
Cambelt.
to remove:
Make sure to align the engine at TDC an no. 1 cylinder and mark all pulleys/sprockets locations with tip-ex or something similar!
Remove the crankshaft pulley. Wedge the flywheel via the inspection cover on the gearbox.
Loosen the tensioner by turning it clockwise using circlip pliers in the holes.
Remove the crankshaft sprocket and et voila. Cam belt will pull off.

to refit:
Ensuring correct sprocket alignment and a loose tensioner (turn it clockwise using circlip pliers in the holes or a makeshift tool of sorts!); put the belt on the crank pulley and then tag it around the water pump spocket. Then slip the belt around the tensioner. release the tensioner securing nut and rotate anticlockwise to set tension. tighten when done.

Sounds easier in a post... but i know it's a pig of dog to do!!

Water pump
The water pump doesn't have a gasket. Sealant is needed i believe...



EDIT: If it's easier, you might want to jack the car up and secure on Axel stands, loosen the pulley side engine mount whilst supporting the engine with a trolley jack, remove the engine mount then lower the engine about 6 inches (carefully as the stress could damage the other engine mounts), then put the belt back on whilst you have better access to the pulley side. This is a similar method to changing the altenator as it is a pain to get at!

 

[levemircento]

thanks for that frenchwood, seems quite straightforward, and I didnt think of the engine mount thing, or even that it would be possible.

one thing, how do I know its at TDC? I can see a small line on the camshaft wheel, does this line up with any mark on the head etc? does the crank belt pulley have any marks?

sorry for all the questions, I think it best to ask than just guess, and then people will say; "you should have asked!!" lol

 

[arc]

the crank pulley does indeed have timing marks on it. like this,but not painted red

 

[frenchwood]

thanks for that frenchwood, seems quite straightforward, and I didnt think of the engine mount thing, or even that it would be possible.

one thing, how do I know its at TDC? I can see a small line on the camshaft wheel, does this line up with any mark on the head etc? does the crank belt pulley have any marks?

sorry for all the questions, I think it best to ask than just guess, and then people will say; "you should have asked!!" lol

As posted by Arc, there should be alignment marks on the pulleys/sprockets and corresponding marks on the head/crankcase. Although i don't believe the auxiliary belt camshaft pulley has one...

Would imagine the camshaft can be 180 out like on my XR3i, so best to make sure both are aligned before proceeding!!

Cheers

 

[levemircento]

thanks peeps

been to pick up a water pump today, its a Delphi/Lockheed one and it came with a tube of Loctite 5926 flange sealant which was recommended.

cost was £30.19 inc VAT [pump £23.41, sealant £2.28 both plus vat]

So will be tackling this next couple of days.... ..

 

[frenchwood]

Good luck Levimir... let us know how you get on!

 

[Luke]

I wouldnt bother dropping the engine down, just unbolt the coolant tank and move it out the way (dont disconnect pipes). Its nice and easy to get to the tentioner then Worked for me and i have huge hands also...

How old is the belt and tentioner? As you're taking it off to replace the pump id recommend putting a new belt and tentioner on anyway...

RE Timing, if you remove the belt carefully nothing should move so you dont really need to worry a great amount about timing the engine. But as precaution, take the plugs out (allows engine to turn much easier) and turn the engine by hand using a spanner on teh crank or cam pully so the timing marks are aligned BEFORE removing the belt. Then if an accident does happen, its easy enough to re-time.

Water pump change is nice and easy - just make sure you get all 4 bolts out before trying to get it off Clean the block surface up, then you're away.

 

[rallycinq]

To take that to the next stage.

Once the belt is refitted turn the engine with the spanner, still with the plugs out, giving it at least two full rotations.

Recheck the timing marks are in the same place.

If you feel any resistance to the turning, stop, back it up slowly and recheck the timing marks.

Cheers

D

 

[levemircento]

Belt is only recent, at 39,000, and car is on 49,000 now, it looks brand new still with no scuffs etc, the lines are still on it and really clear.

How old is the belt and tentioner? As you're taking it off to replace the pump id recommend putting a new belt and tentioner on anyway...

 

[99sei]

i found the easiest way to tension the cam belt was remove the head light, get a 'L' shape object and it will easily do the job.

ive done it every way possible and this is by far the easiest

i used a tent peg and bent the hook straight

good luck, will be doing this my self soon

 

[levemircento]

i found the easiest way to tension the cam belt was remove the head light, get a 'L' shape object and it will easily do the job.

ive done it every way possible and this is by far the easiest

i used a tent peg and bent the hook straight

good luck, will be doing this my self soon

you mean by pulling the tensioner towards you? does the light need re-alignment?

 

[rallycinq]

you mean by pulling the tensioner towards you? does the light need re-alignment?

No, the adjustment bit is inside the headlamp shell, you are going to remove the complete assembly.

Cheers

D

 

[levemircento]

alrighty then!!

Did this job today, overall it was easy, and quite quick! removal of the header tank was a godsend, cambelt was initially out by a couple of teeth, refitting took care of that.

I found retensioning easy, didnt need to remove light, I used a small crow bar.

putting lower cam belt cover on was awkward

arch liner even more awkward

I have some pics, see 'repairs' on www.levemir.2ya.com

THANKS TO EVERYONE, FOR THE TIPS AND ADVICE

 

[rallycinq]

Well done.

Cheers

D

 

[frenchwood]

Good Job Levimir.

Like the website too...

 

[99sei]

glad it all went well, providing i get both insurances sorted early enough and can service the rover with out any probs im gona change my water pump just to be on the safe side.

will use your little guide if i get stuck, its a great idea

 

[levemircento]

thanks, its the sort of thing I used to do when I built race cars [the website]

whole thing only took less than hour.

I will be carrying it on with any other jobs that I need to do, I have placed it onto the links page for all.